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How to eliminate those very fine scratch marks on your paint

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d0n_3d

Boost is good.
Joined
Jul 14, 2001
Messages
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I have a nagging issue with my car...a long time ago when I was young and dumb I took my car through an automatic car wash and have had to deal with those VERY fine scratch marks all over my paint...I have tried zaino wax both the wax and polisher and the marks are still there...is it possible to have a detail shop professionally buff/detail the paint to eliminate these marks? or are they there permanently until i get a new paintjob...i have never had the paint buffed before (the paint is 5 years old) and has orange peel...any hope?
 
Originally posted by d0n_3d
I have a nagging issue with my car...a long time ago when I was young and dumb I took my car through an automatic car wash and have had to deal with those VERY fine scratch marks all over my paint...I have tried zaino wax both the wax and polisher and the marks are still there...is it possible to have a detail shop professionally buff/detail the paint to eliminate these marks? or are they there permanently until i get a new paintjob...i have never had the paint buffed before (the paint is 5 years old) and has orange peel...any hope?

Yup,go buy some Meguair's step 13 and get to work with a polisher and cotton pad.
Run the polisher around 1,300 rpm.
For heavier scuffs use polishing compound [Turtle Wax,buy hand].
Clean it off before the Meguair's.
Have fun,you'll love it when it's done.
 
First off, avoid the car washes. Removing swirls and scratches is a 3 step process and is most easily obtained with a rotary buffer. Start by using a fine cut cleaner in a small area and see if it removes them. If not you will need to go more abrasive. I personally like the Meguiars products. After you have removed the scratches you will have to restore the luster and shine. Swirl remover is good for this. Next is to polish and then seal with wax. It is a lot of work but very rewarding because lets face it nothing looks better than a GN with a mile deep gloss. So it is a 3 step process that any 1 single product can not accomplish. Clean, polish, and wax.
 
excellent...exactly what i wanted to hear...of course this won't happen until spring but i just wanted to know now what to do...thanks!:D
 
Chris gave some very good advice.
What you want to watch out for is to use tape or stay away from body creases and lines with any power polishers.
 
Cover the edges or lines of the body as well as the panel gaps with a piece of 3/4" masking tape. You will never burn an edge doing this. Then peel it off when done. Wax or polish the edge lightly by hand.
 
I'm a very big supporter of 3M Hand Glaze. Try that and some Meguires Wax.
 
Forgot to mention the tape guys. Anyone who has a GN or WE4 should not be without a polisher. Here is a quick review:

1. Clean with an abrasive cleaner.
2. Remove swirls and buildup with #9 swirl remover.
3. Polish with machine glaze (cant remember the #).
4. Seal with #26 Hi tech yellow wax.
 
5) And prepare to do it all over again after 30 days. :eek:

If you keep your car outside or wash it frequently, Mequiars is absolutely not the best. It comes off so easy, that it's made me not want to use it anymore.
 
I always kept my GN in the garage and usually detailed it once a year in the spring. Don't really know about the durability. I like them becuase they don't cost a fortune and are easily found.
 
Clay bars are AWESOME! I use one on every car that I fully detail, and it makes a HUGE difference in the smoothness, gloss, and quality feel of the finish.

I've been trying to find a good piece of clay via a local hobby store chain so those punks at Mequiar's and Mother's can't clip me for $15 for a 25 cent piece of clay and a $1.00 bottle of detail gunk.

Anyone found a good source for clay bars?
 
Clay is good to remove light contaminents from the paint. Just remember when you use one that it removes any wax as well.
 
Originally posted by dhauser


Anyone found a good source for clay bars?

Yea, that is the biggest scam going. I don't see any difference from any run of the mill modlers clay. I would just go to a hobby/crafts store and buy a block of it. There may be different grades but dont think so. Here's something I thought of too, I remember that some clay when you play with it will give off some color on your hands?? Not sure if that will be a factor, but many doctors now give clay for therapy to people w/wrist probs that does not give off color..may be something there...go to the dr. tell emyou got wrist pain and get a script for detailing your cars! LOL :)
 
Originally posted by jmidolo
Yea, that is the biggest scam going. I don't see any difference from any run of the mill modlers clay. I would just go to a hobby/crafts store and buy a block of it. There may be different grades but dont think so.


I already tried that. Went to Hobby Lobby and bought modeler's clay. Says it won't dry out. That may be the problem, though. It doesn't work the same as the Mequiar's/Mother's clay bars. It's softer, and doesn't lift contaminants as well, and kinda breaks down a little when it's wet with detailer. I won't use it on other cars because it doesn't work as well. Maybe I need to find a clay that DOES dry out eventually. Maybe it has the properties I'm looking for.
 
Good find, Joe!

However, when shipping is included, you have $11 in it. It looks about 1/3 larger than the Mequiar's clay bar, but Mequiar's includes a bottle of detailer at the same price. Doesn't seem like such a great deal at that point.

If they were $5 each, I'd buy a dozen of them.
 
It looked about 3x bigger I thought. If it does work just as good, and were buying multiples..then 11 would not be that bad. I just used water w/a cap of the zaino wash for lube and it worked fine...the spray is a waste IMO.
 
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