How to size an air compressor

aminga

Chicks Dig the powerbulge
Joined
Dec 15, 2003
It occurred to me that not a lot of folks have an air compressor and since I can't live without mine now, I put together this little guide for picking out one.


The first rule of thumb is it's all about the CFM. Ignore the horsepower listed on the motor. Many of the vendors that sell to a big box store use a peak HP number to print on the side of the tank because it's a bigger number. Either go by the continous HP or go by the CFM. But when comparing make sure that they are showing you the CFM at the same pressure. 120 CFM at 100 PSI is actually more capacity that 120 CFM at 90 PSI. Bottom line is look at the tools you have or want to buy and size the equipment appropriatly.

Ignore the size of the tank. A bigger tank won't give you more CFM, only the pump can do that. In fact on very small pumps a large tank will actually force the pump to run harder to recharge the big tank. As the pump is running it's heating the air and suspending moisture in it.

Here is a list of me of the typically tools and their requirements

I used Ingersol Rand for a baseline. Some cheaper tools do not have efficient air motors and will use more

All of these are rated at 90 PSI
3/8" Air Ratchet 5 CFM
1/4" Air Ratchet 3.5 CFM
1/4" Die Grinder 3 CFM
1/2" Impact Gun 4.4 CFM

HVLP Spray Gun 9-15 CFM @ 30 PSI.

Sand Blast Cabinet, Medium Nozzle 10CFM@ 90 PSI

Pressure blaster (depends on nozzle size) 25 CFM @ 60 PSI with 5mm nozzle

Keep in Mind the duty cycle of the tool. While a 3/8" air ratchet uses 5 CFM it doesn't run continously and could probably be supplied from a 3-4 CFM compressor. Air Grinders, sandblasters are the worst they run almost continously and don't give the compressor a break. An HVLP spray gun needs a lot of CFM but notice that it's typically at a lower PSI that what the compressors are rated at. A 7-10CFM compressor could supply a 15 CFM Air gun.

Types of compressors:

If you can afford an oiled piston compressor by all means get one. Your ears and neighbors will thank you. I went from a 2.5 HP Craftsman oilless to a 7.5HP Puma Oiled and my shop got much quieter. The oilless compressors just won't last as long if you work them hard. If you overrun them with something like a sandblaster you'll go through rings and headgaskets faster than an newby with his first TR. (Ask me how I know this).
 
Good post Alan. I've got a big tank and an even bigger compressor. Burned up the compressor and went with a twin to get the work done. Not to hard but it does make a difference now.
 
A couple more "items" to add to the discussion:
Here's a link to TPTOOLS. [They are my source for alll the parts I use in my blasting operation.]
This PDF shows how to plumb a system. I use 3/4" copper tubing, and have it routed pretty much as shown.
http://www.tptools.com/StaticText/airline-piping-diagram.pdf

I also modded the electrical system on my compressor to use a relay/remote to start the motor. Most "hobby sized" units use a cheapo psi switch.. The load on startup, can fry the contacts. I use the psi sw to trigger the remote contactor.. Works like a charm!

Just my $.02
 
We have a Devilbiss at my moms house. I think it has about a 55 gallon tank and a 2 stage compressor. That thing is quiet as hell and is great for using smaller air tools. It can't take tractor trailer lugs off though :rolleyes:, but it was great for porting and polishing. Oh I forgot its probably over 40 years old, the new compressors seem to run their asses of but produce nothing but heat and water, I believe they are 1 stage??? I have a portable Devilbiss with I believe a 20-25 gallon tank and its nice and quiet, but it doesnt have enough volume to keep up with grinding.
 
You want a 2 stage compressor that has as big a tank as you can find, 60 gallon min. 80 gallon is best. The larger tank allows you to operate air tools longer without the compressor running 100% of the time.

Also, pump/motor speed is a factor. My Walker compressor only turns around 600 rpms and the motor only 1725. Motor speed is what wears out things. The less expensive ones turn at 3450 rpm which causes your compressor to turn twice as fast as well.

I had an old Quincy that was made in the late 1950's that someone gave me. I put new rings, bearings and valves in it and it still runs like a champ!!!

One other safety thought. If you do any painting in your garage, make sure your compressor has a source of fresh, outside air. Think about it, if your compressor breathes in explosive paint fumes, what you now have in your garage is 60 gallons of explosives under 120 psi of pressure waiting to level your block !!
 
Good post Alan. I've got a big tank and an even bigger compressor. Burned up the compressor and went with a twin to get the work done. Not to hard but it does make a difference now.

I do like my Puma W compressor 2 low pressure stages and one High. 27 CFM.
 
You want a 2 stage compressor that has as big a tank as you can find, 60 gallon min. 80 gallon is best. The larger tank allows you to operate air tools longer without the compressor running 100% of the time.

Also, pump/motor speed is a factor. My Walker compressor only turns around 600 rpms and the motor only 1725. Motor speed is what wears out things. The less expensive ones turn at 3450 rpm which causes your compressor to turn twice as fast as well.

I had an old Quincy that was made in the late 1950's that someone gave me. I put new rings, bearings and valves in it and it still runs like a champ!!!

One other safety thought. If you do any painting in your garage, make sure your compressor has a source of fresh, outside air. Think about it, if your compressor breathes in explosive paint fumes, what you now have in your garage is 60 gallons of explosives under 120 psi of pressure waiting to level your block !!

True on the 2 stage. It'll run quieter too
 
A couple more "items" to add to the discussion:
Here's a link to TPTOOLS. [They are my source for alll the parts I use in my blasting operation.]
This PDF shows how to plumb a system. I use 3/4" copper tubing, and have it routed pretty much as shown.
http://www.tptools.com/StaticText/airline-piping-diagram.pdf

I also modded the electrical system on my compressor to use a relay/remote to start the motor. Most "hobby sized" units use a cheapo psi switch.. The load on startup, can fry the contacts. I use the psi sw to trigger the remote contactor.. Works like a charm!

Just my $.02


Magnetic starters work well.

I've got another how to here about plumbing a compressor. Copper makes a good cheap airline. Cheaper that black pipe
 
you guys really want to step up to a great compressor look into a Hydrovane-------in my shop i have a 3HP Hydrovane HV02 on a 1000 gallon tank------pressure is set to maintain 110 psi--------at times i have a dozen or more guys working in my shop with air guns, sandblasters, a spraybooth etc and it does a superb job-------its not a piston compressor and its not a screw (roots type) compressor either-------it has a rotary vane to pump air and its super quiet------in fact sometimes folks working in my shop never realize that its mounted on top of the restroom------since they have never heard the compressor run in the shop they think that it must be outside somewhere-------when i do point it out they can't believe it is actually a compressor and that it is so small--------I originally bought the unit in my shop sometime in the early 80's and it was run 24/7 in a manufacturing plant till it was replaced with a larger unit--------i put it in my GN shop about 10 years ago and its still going strong-------nothing like it--------comparing these things to a piston compressor is like comparing a propeller airplane to a jet--------a little pricey but they can be had on e-bay for a reasonable price.........RC
 
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