Hydraulic roller 218/218 Install and Spring pressure

Chris McDade

Active Member
Joined
Jul 13, 2001
I'm new to hydraulic rollers. I've always run flat tappet cams. I just ordered a customer grind roller 218/218.
I want to make sure im using all the right components for this install.
Here is what I got with the kit.

Comp lifters 6853-12
Comp Timing Chain 3129
Comp Cam button 269
Springs 26918-12
Teflon Valve seals 503-12 - Im not using these.
Retainers 1787-12 locks 648-12

What should I look for on spring installed height? What should be seat PSI and open PSI?

Any feedback is appreciated.
 
I'm new to hydraulic rollers. I've always run flat tappet cams. I just ordered a customer grind roller 218/218.
I want to make sure im using all the right components for this install.
Here is what I got with the kit.

Comp lifters 6853-12
Comp Timing Chain 3129
Comp Cam button 269
Springs 26918-12
Teflon Valve seals 503-12 - Im not using these.
Retainers 1787-12 locks 648-12

What should I look for on spring installed height? What should be seat PSI and open PSI?

Any feedback is appreciated.
In short, change the timing set as the comp set has a Cast iron camshaft gear. Acquire a pro gear with a IWIS chain upgrade or a Rollmaster chain set. The springs could be marginal depending on the lobe. I am assuming a 3313 or 3611 lobe number.
 
As info, 26918-12 springs have a seat load of 125@1.800" and an open load of 367@1.150" according to Comp.
 
I will post the picture of the cam card tomorrow. I've been busy all weekend. 26918-12 spring doesn't seem like it has enough open and closed lbs.

I will probably jump over to the PAC1201
 
I will post the picture of the cam card tomorrow. I've been busy all weekend. 26918-12 spring doesn't seem like it has enough open and closed lbs.

I will probably jump over to the PAC1201
 
Here is the cam card.

My head guy thinks the 1201 spring is to much for my combo being that im only turning the motor 5800-6000. He also thinks that much spring pressure will wear valve train components out quickly.....Thoughts?
Hydraulic Roller.JPG
 
Here is the cam card.

My head guy thinks the 1201 spring is to much for my combo being that im only turning the motor 5800-6000. He also thinks that much spring pressure will wear valve train components out quickly.....Thoughts?View attachment 285148
 
That is a very mild cam. These cars need springs, most average v8 engine builders recommend too light of spring. With that said, the comp beehives will be fine on that cam.
 
Looks like I will stay with the comp springs. Only down side to running this spring is there is no secondary spring if one breaks to keep the valve from dropping.
 
Looks like I will stay with the comp springs. Only down side to running this spring is there is no secondary spring if one breaks to keep the valve from dropping.

Those double springs were notorious for that.

I have run the bee hives up to 7000 rpms and no issues. Believe it or not that beehive spring is much more stable than a standard spring.
 
First you need to check installed height with the valves, locators, locks, and retainers your planning to use. That height will dictate the pressure. Most cam companies will recommend 130-145 seat and 300 open for a hyd roller. I am using the PAC 1218 beehive installed at 1.770 and my pressures are a bit over 140 on the seat, 320 over the nose. Engine sees 7K. Recently tore the engine down and observed no wear on the cam,rockers and cups or valve tips but the exh seats did widen some. The PAC 1201 would be 125 seat and 355 open if installed at 1.780. Again, all depends on your current available installed height.
 
Chris,

What heads are you using? Just curious? I've spec'd that same cam for several builds........I think you will like it!
 
I had that cam in the stage engine. Also, the beehives. I set them up at 140 seat.
Some folks don't like the noise those lifters make..I didn't care.
 
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