You can type here any text you want

I just picked up a used Engine What should be done to it before dropping it in???

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

Does anyone have this mod done to their motor?

"Oil pump:

We always recommend a rebuilt oil pump and thrust plate with a minimum of 60 PSI @ 3000 RPM. We like to see 20 PSI @ hot idle in gear, but even 10 PSI is acceptable. Remember, the oil pump must create enough pressure to push oil into the center of the main journal & then out to each respective rod bearing journal while centrifugal force is trying to push the oil back out from the center of each main journal. If your pump lacks adequate pressure and volume, your rod bearings may starve for oil! In the case of the V6, we recommend using one of the available rebuilding kits with the new thrust plate. Keep in mind that the oil pump is supplying oil to the engine as well as the turbo, so upgrading the pump is really mandatory on these engines.

In high performance street/strip motors, we suggest "blueprinting" the oil pump and timing Cover passages. Smoothing, deburring and enlarging passages will dramatically increase oil flow to your bearings in these engines. Specifically focus on the pump cover outlet (the rectangular slot) and the passage into the block (open to 1/2", 9/16" in race applications). Race applications will benefit from an external oil line running from the turbo oil supply fitting to the passenger side lifer oil galley in the rear of the block. The reasoning behind this external line is simple; you increase volume and pressure to the rear main and rod bearings because oil is now supplied from both ends of the oil galley rather than just from the front as is the case with the stock arrangement. Where the turbo feed fitting exits the block (front, passenger side) the block must first be drilled to 9/16" to the cam bearing then drilled 1" deep using a 19/32" bit, then threads tapped to 3/8" NPT to accommodate the new fitting and 3/8" external line.

In all out race engines, you should consider running an external oil pump, bypassing the front cover pump."
 
Ya know Charlie, I was looking for your post on it, to refer to it, but I couldn't find it. So, I just linked it again. :D
 
A drill bit and a little work and it will be good David. Simple fix if you can handle it.
 
on hanging the tranny.. I use large screw drivers in the bell housing "pin holes" for the engine. Then a bar goin side to side on the frame. Also some cheap advise ..disconnect the tranny cable so if something does happen ya don't break it .. You do have a floor shift right ??
 
I just started the same thing. Got a 99k long block ready to go into my roller. Here's what i'm doing/have done so far.

dissasemble block bare besides rotating unit.
Remove front cover and blueprint.
New HV gears and thrust plate kit.
New water pump.
remove mains, check bearings, re-install with ARP bolts
Remove rod caps, reinstall with ARP bolts
Replace all gaskets including rear main seal
Heads sent out and resurfaced with big valves, new springs and light porting
Also will be changing out the cam with a comp 212/212
reinstalling with cometics and ARP stud kit.

Thats about it for the long block.
 
I just started the same thing. Got a 99k long block ready to go into my roller. Here's what i'm doing/have done so far.

dissasemble block bare besides rotating unit.
Remove front cover and blueprint.
New HV gears and thrust plate kit.
New water pump.
remove mains, check bearings, re-install with ARP bolts
Remove rod caps, reinstall with ARP bolts
Replace all gaskets including rear main seal
Heads sent out and resurfaced with big valves, new springs and light porting
Also will be changing out the cam with a comp 212/212
reinstalling with cometics and ARP stud kit.

Thats about it for the long block.

"remove mains, check bearings, re-install with ARP bolts
Remove rod caps, reinstall with ARP bolts"

I would have re-used the factory bolts. I think you better look into that since they normally resize the rods and alighn hone the blocks mains when going ARP
 
I definetely am aware of that. I'm basicly just doing a bearing inspection but putting new bolts in at the same torque specs. My brother did this with his and the motor is 100%.
 
on hanging the tranny.. I use large screw drivers in the bell housing "pin holes" for the engine. Then a bar goin side to side on the frame. Also some cheap advise ..disconnect the tranny cable so if something does happen ya don't break it .. You do have a floor shift right ??
not yet:redface:
 
nothing wrong with that.. so ya don't have a cable to worry about breaking :cool:

i am going this morning to give it a good look and pick up the stuff that i would need to hold the trans up.

Thinking of a 2X4 across with two LONG bolts (6 or 7 inches) one on each frame rail. That should be safe and easy. plus the frame already has the holes in it.
 
finally have the replacement engine on the stand and i started inspecting it.

don't know if i am panicking but i feel BEAT-THE F DOWN

At this time i am thinking that it definitely needs a cam and lifter set.
and a good cleaning on the inside of the engine.

1-the lifters have chips/grooves/ruff on the bottom outside edge (the area that rides on the cam)
IMG_1509-internet.jpg

2-It has what appears to be a double roller chain with the tensioner still installed.
IMG_1518-Internet.jpg
IMG_1523-Internet.jpg

3-It has a blue plate on the oil pump.
 
when going roller cam and heavier springs
Do You NEED to use a hardened rocker shaft?
Do You NEED to use roller rockers?
 
Back
Top