Installing Razor's kit?

[hang10]

How difficult and how long of an install is Razors alky kit? Thanks-kurt

 

[bruce]

How difficult and how long of an install is Razors alky kit?

Not at all difficult if you're some what versed in wrenching.
A real short 1/2", er, 13mm is needed for the nuts holding the pump to the bumper bracket. Having a dremel or something (cut off wheel) to shorten the bumper bracket studs is handy.

You need an electric drill, an assortment of commonly used wrenchs, soldering gun, is all I recall needing. If you want to install the boost indicator light, then you need to take the bezel off the dash.

Depending on the tools and your expertise, it could be done in a couple hours, or a full afternoon, would be tops, I'd say.

 

[norbs]

I have 15 hours in mine, and im finally done, but had lots of problems since my car is very complicated.!

 

[Russ Merritt]

If you take your time and do a complete job it will take 4-5 hrs. Don't sweat it though, have fun and do the best job you can. It's not tough and there are plenty of people to help you if you get in trouble/confused. Kit is really complete and everything (except tools) is given to do the best job possible. Wire loom, butt connectors, zip ties, ect,ect. If you do decide to install alky, have a chip burned for your combo/alky by Turbotweak.


The more you install the better you will get....... I've done a few now and almost don't need the directions anymore. Almost......

 

[bruce]

I've done a few now and almost don't need the directions anymore.

Is that what all those sheets of page, were about?....

 

[bruce]

I have 15 hours in mine, and im finally done, but had lots of problems since my car is very complicated.!

It's really tempting to say something......

 

[Russ Merritt]

I have learned from bad experiance to keep any directions close to me at all times!!! I save em all, from everything!

You could probably wire the space shuttle without directions!

 

[Russ Merritt]

Bruce, you could probably get the space shuttle to fly using the 86-87 ecm!! How's that?

I'm a big fan of that stock computer too......

 

[norbs]

The tankfitting wont work with a side terminal battery had to extend it, had to relocate the pump, because my oil filter is there by the bumper, also had to wire in the dfi for dual fuel mapping for the alky and wire in the transbrake function.. The hoses were short since the pump is relocated to a new spot. Had to make a hole to get the wires in, since the factory hole is all jammed up with wiring. Thats about it Was fun

 

[norbs]

Well went for maiden voyage the other day, for some reason i got knock at 20 psi on 94 octane. I did not prime the system, and i boosted it about 3 times, always knock, I think its taking to long to prime and by the time it gets the meth im' already in knock. There should be a solenoid in the system or check valve to keep the alky close to the nozzle at all times? Any ideas? How long does it take to get the alky flowing???????

 

[Pronto]

bumper bracket. Having a dremel or something (cut off wheel) to shorten the bumper bracket studs is handy.

I just took the mounting plate off the pump, drilled out the rubber mounting pads. I mounted the plate back on the pump and pushed the pump on the studs. Rubber insulated :wink: It really wasn't that hard. I couldn't find that green wire Julio mentioned that was at the dash so I just tapped into the MAP wire and added it to the pump power wire in the loom.

 

[Razor]

Well went for maiden voyage the other day, for some reason i got knock at 20 psi on 94 octane. I did not prime the system, and i boosted it about 3 times, always knock, I think its taking to long to prime and by the time it gets the meth im' already in knock. There should be a solenoid in the system or check valve to keep the alky close to the nozzle at all times? Any ideas? How long does it take to get the alky flowing???????

You didnt connect anything to the purple wire correct? If it stays grounded.. your hosed.

I cant see how having a side terminal battery posses an issue with the hose routing, since the hose runs on top of the rail.

You mention the hose wasnt long enough... cuase things needed to be relocated.. might you of done something in that layout to create your issues?

If your oil filter is on the bumper bracket, I would of mounted the pump on the core support, then shortened the feed hose.

When you change things around.. sometimes issues are created. I'm available all week long during the day to assist with install questions.. having done close to 50 TR installs myself.. I think i've pretty much seen it all.

Please Norbs.. call me and discuss what your doing.. Let me help you get the ball rolling, from there.. get as creative as you want.

As to the priming question.. only needed once after car has been sitting for an extended amount of time. In other words not every time you'll be racing.. but just that first time you fire the car up. Think of it like a nitrous purge.. Solenoid/check valve/etc... doesnt matter.

 

[davekusa]

I'm installing mine on a mustang and taking my time. I hate rushing through an install and then figuring out how I should have installed it in the first place. I took everthing out of the box looked at it, hook it up on a bench to test it. I thought about placement for a week before I started drilling and mounting.

 

[norbs]

The battery i have in my car is wider than the factory width, so the outlet from the bottle is direct in line with the battery. Was a simple fix , bought a fittting to extend it, is fine now. I have the initial setting at about 4 volts now, or about 3/4 turn and the blue knob in the 12 o clock position, i am still getting knock, but not as bad, need further testing but the weather is not co-operating, will give you a call later.

 

[norbs]

Heres a few pics:


http://www3.sympatico.ca/norbz/alky1.JPG
http://www3.sympatico.ca/norbz/alky.JPG

 

[Razor]

The battery i have in my car is wider than the factory width, so the outlet from the bottle is direct in line with the battery. Was a simple fix , bought a fittting to extend it, is fine now. I have the initial setting at about 4 volts now, or about 3/4 turn and the blue knob in the 12 o clock position, i am still getting knock, but not as bad, need further testing but the weather is not co-operating, will give you a call later.

Set the initial straight up-n-down(12:00), blue knob 3/4 way up. Have the system activate at 5 PSI boost. If all is ok.. that should get you want you want.. or very close.

If the AFR is like 11.3-11.7 and you pickup knock add octane to the gas and see if the KR goes away. If so..we need to increase the knobs on the system and get more delivery.. Sometimes the knock sensors go off from other stuff that no amount of alky can fix.. octane.. yup.. False.. nope. Also look at your IAT(MAT) logs.. if your at ambient or slightly above.. your spraying.. Usually takes a few seconds for the GM sensor to start dropping.

 

[speedfreakv6]

sounds like alot of work .smc kit took about 2 hours up and running with dual nozzle sprayer .but its well worth the time and money .one of the best mods i have done.love all that boost :biggrin:

 

[Razor]

Thats rite, trying to get a 9-10 second car to run 9-10 seconds on alky takes a lot of work

Norbs.. bolt on a TE44, stock chip, and stock heads..call it a day. :biggrin:

Hehe

 

[norbs]

I wish, but you are correct the goal is low 10's or 9s on pump gas! It rained today so i could not test anything, but will keep you updated thanks for your help.

 

[Hot Air]

How is Razor's Nozzle Connected to Up-Pipe

I will have my CAS V-1 FMIC up-pipe off my car next week and want to prepare the up-pipe for a future Razor purchase. Do I need to purchase an aluminum weld fitting so I can bolt the nozzle in later? I would rather not wrestle with the up pipe anymore than absolutely necessary.

If I need a fitting, what size/thread? I'm assuming it is a NPT thread...1/8" or 1/4" NPT (female).
Conrad