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Intake alignment issue

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EVIL

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Jun 30, 2008
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I had my intake machine down .040 on each side so the ports would line up better with the head ports.

I'm not sure if this issue existed before the machine work but now my intake has a slight diagonal wobble.

It looks to be off about .010.

Should I have one side machine .010 to nothing front to back on one side or am I over thinking this?

Will the intake actually flex enough to compensate for this issue where i shouldn't have to have it machined?

Thank You
 
I had my intake machine down .040 on each side so the ports would line up better with the head ports.

I'm not sure if this issue existed before the machine work but now my intake has a slight diagonal wobble.

It looks to be off about .010.

Should I have one side machine .010 to nothing front to back on one side or am I over thinking this?

Will the intake actually flex enough to compensate for this issue where i shouldn't have to have it machined?

Thank You

What's the clearance on the front and rear rail? Is it contacting on those first and rocking from side to side?


K.
 
Machining the intake is a precision operation. Sounds like the machinist didn't square the manifold to each side. Hard to do with a standard automotive mill. I have it done a Bridgeport by a competent regualr machinist, not an automotive guy. (though he builds real cool snowmobile cylinder heads and other aerospace widgets.)
 
It's rocking diagonal.

Facing the timing cover the right side will lift and the left rear will touch.

It does this ever so slightly.

I can have it machined to sit flush by taking off, lets say, .010 starting from the left front and gradually take out less as it goes along until i reach the rear and be at .000

but i was curious if the intake will bend at all after torquing so i don't have to do this.
 
Machining the intake is a precision operation. Sounds like the machinist didn't square the manifold to each side. Hard to do with a standard automotive mill. I have it done a Bridgeport by a competent regualr machinist, not an automotive guy. (though he builds real cool snowmobile cylinder heads and other aerospace widgets.)

Ken's right here. A standard automotive machinist won't have a clue on how to machine an intake. At the very least it requires an angle mill and some experience. The math involved may also be an issue for an automotive machinist. Sad to say this but it's true.:redface:

It's rocking diagonal.

Facing the timing cover the right side will lift and the left rear will touch.

It does this ever so slightly.

I can have it machined to sit flush by taking off, lets say, .010 starting from the left front and gradually take out less as it goes along until i reach the rear and be at .000

but i was curious if the intake will bend at all after torquing so i don't have to do this.

You need another intake. Sorry but that's the truth here. You could start the bolts and then heat it up some which will allow the intake to bend slightly but you need to measure how far off it is before you try and bolt it down.
 
There has....

been a few horror stories on here about intake flanges breaking or cracking and the owners not knowing what happened because they purchased the car that way. I believe, using the thicker gasket like the 1200, will aid in the assembly,:biggrin: but not change the eventual outcome.:eek:
 
loosen the head bolts and bump the head up at the lose corners, theres usually a little play on the dowels
get all your intake bolts in tighten the intake center bolts at 25lbs then retorque the heads
 
that might be just enough.

Thank you

loosen the head bolts and bump the head up at the lose corners, theres usually a little play on the dowels
get all your intake bolts in tighten the intake center bolts at 25lbs then retorque the heads
 
loosen the head bolts and bump the head up at the lose corners, theres usually a little play on the dowels
get all your intake bolts in tighten the intake center bolts at 25lbs then retorque the heads

I agree that might help. You can also drill out the head dowel holes a bit to help align the manifold.
 
After further inspection, it appears that the intake may only be off about .005 or so. Just enough to wobble ever so slightly. I think it may be fine the way it is but i will loosen the heads a bit, torque the intake with an old gasket, torque the heads, removed the intake and see if it made a difference.

Thanks for all the help.
D
 
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