I've got some work ahead of me

Gooch

New Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2005
I've always had a small valve tap that I had been wanting to figure out. Recently, I had been getting some knock under boost and very soon after I noticed this, my check engine light came on and my car was running terrible. I pulled over and looked it over with a friend in the middle of the night. Nothing out of the ordinary we could see, left it at the restaurant parking lot I was in and had it towed home the next morning.

A friend and I decided to pull the intake off my car and we discovered a nicely bent pushrod. So next was to find out what caused it.

DSC00964.jpg


Hello, new camshaft.

Now, I have a couple questions. I've been doing some reading and apparently hydraulic roller tappet is the way to go. So I'd need roller lifters, correct? Do I need to change anything else with a roller cam? And what is a good street cam? I have/had a 208/208.

Can I do all this with the engine still in the car if I take out the radiator, etc? Is there anything else I should do besides change cams? Any recommendations, tips, hints, words of wisdom?

I'm not happy that this happened by any means, but I'm learning a lot and surprisingly, I enjoy that. I like figuring everything out and fixing it. I am glad that it wasn't smething even more serious, although the cam will be a lot of work.
 
glad you are going to a roller

Nothing too extreme, my roller from dsl is very simple to use, no timing cover mod needed.
valve springs,pushrods,cam, roller lifters,timing chain, and your golden

BW
 
that sucks

I pulled my whole we-4 into peices because it had what I thought was a rod knock. I figured, it needs a rebuild now, it needs paint and body including alot of RUST repair, and the interrior needed to be done. I parted the car out, sold the roller, kept what I needed to convert the elky into a turbo car. Come to find out on the tear down that it was a broken plunger in the lifter :eek: oh well, sour deal on the whole thing anyways. I'm not going to chime in on cams, since it seems everybody says roller is better, it must be. You could change the cam while the engine is still in, my only words of wisdom is, make sure you break it in right. Now here comes all the super techs with their oil recommendations for break in, cam sizes, parts numbers, roller lifter part numbers, and the rest of the can of worms. Good luck :D ps, that lifter your holding sucks ;)
 
TURBOELKY said:
make sure you break it in right. Now here comes all the super techs with their oil recommendations for break in, cam sizes, parts numbers, roller lifter part numbers, and the rest of the can of worms. Good luck :D ps, that lifter your holding sucks ;)
With a roller setup, there is no break in procedure as nothing has to "wear" I thought??
 
I dont know

I never had a roller, only roller i've had was my we-4 when I was done with it :frown:
 
Gooch said:
Do I need a special puller to get the harmonic balancer off?
Mine came right off with a light tap. Don't tap it too hard and use a block of wood so it does not get damaged. If it does not come off easily, then yes you can rent a puller from most any major auto parts store, some, like Pep Boys let you rent them for free, just leave a deposit, when you bring it back you get all of your deposit back.
 
So I thought I'd give a little update...

Pulled the heads the other day, everything looks good. Anyone know where to get 'em ported around NJ?

Cleaned up a lot of grease and grime because my front cover was leaking bad.

I've been talking to the guy that my cam was originally purchased from over at John's Performance. Seems pretty nice, getting my entire roller setup and a bunch of other things I'm going to need. I decided to go with the comp cams 210/210 roller.
 
There are better things to spend money on than porting the stock heads. Stock heads, unported, will get you into the 10s. Check with Rich's Custom auto- they can help with the cam, and anything else you need, and they are in NJ.
 
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