Just blew my engine.........

[SideSlip]

I think my engine is toast. At idle it's quiet, but rev it slightly and it makes a loud metallic clacking sound deep inside the block. What could it be? Do I need to tear the whole engine down to fix it?

 

[NCC1701]

Well......

If it's making that kinda noise, Don't start it again. Maybe its just a spun bearing. I would check those first. Only have to pull the pan and caps to check for that.
Hard to tell, clacking usually sounds like a valvetrain problem. Might want to pull the valve covers and check everything there as well.

 

[turbojimmy]

Originally posted by SideSlip
I think my engine is toast. At idle it's quiet, but rev it slightly and it makes a loud metallic clacking sound deep inside the block. What could it be? Do I need to tear the whole engine down to fix it?

The loud clacking is the rod slapping against the crank. Don't run it anymore. I just went through the same thing - with the same noise. My engine is off to the machine shop as of this morning.

You can replace the bearings with the engine in the car, but it's hardly worth the trouble. The engine is fairly easy to get out and then you have easier access to everything.

Good luck,
Jim

 

[Red Regal T]

Sounds like a spun bearing to me and time for a rebuild. Crank will be damaged and need to be fixed.

 

[OldGrayII]

Don't waste time, most likely as Jimmy says above, it NEEDS freshening. Take a few hours and pull the motor, tear it down and ship it off to your machine shop!!

 

[ChrisCairns]

Originally posted by SideSlip
I think my engine is toast. At idle it's quiet, but rev it slightly and it makes a loud metallic clacking sound deep inside the block. What could it be? Do I need to tear the whole engine down to fix it?

There is a possibility that it's just the torque converter to flexplate bolts. The sound you described is exactly what mine sounded like when they came loose......

Remove the dust cover from the flexplate and take a wrench, in other words don't just try to wiggle them by hand, and see if you can tighten them. And keep your fingers crossed.

 

[SideSlip]

Ya........It's a rod bearing. The engine is original and only has 30,000 miles total and has never seen more than 15lbs. boost. I thought these Buick V-6 short blocks were tough.......what gives???? My stock 5.0 short block could take more abuse.

Anyway Turbo Regals rule......and I want to prove it to my Stang buddys, so what should I do for a re-build??? I want something that will stand mid 11's easily. Suggestions????

 

[MeanBuicks]

Make sure you choose a machine shop wisely who will pay proper attention to the clearances.

With only 30,000 miles don't let them bore the block unless there is a very good reason to. Hone the cylinders & put new rings on the original pistons. (I went through my engine at 110,000 miles after loosing a rod bearing and it only needed honing.)

 

[Mile Hi GN]

There are no problems with Turbo Buicks, only opportunities. I've been through 3 motors in 86,000 miles. Each one stronger than the last.

Contact your local Buick GS Club. See who does most of the rebuilds in your area. Visit the shop, talk to others who have had their motors rebuilt. Learn all you can - these aren't Small Block Chevies.

If the budget allows, go ahead and do the heads while it's out. Good time to freshen up the tranny as well.

These are highly stressed little powerplants, well engineered but they are going to blow - it's part of the game.

Good Luck,

 

[WFO]

Re: Re: Just blew my engine.........

Originally posted by ChrisCairns


There is a possibility that it's just the torque converter to flexplate bolts. The sound you described is exactly what mine sounded like when they came loose......

Remove the dust cover from the flexplate and take a wrench, in other words don't just try to wiggle them by hand, and see if you can tighten them. And keep your fingers crossed.

i'd confirm that it's not the torque convertor bolts first.i had the same thing happen and it sounded like the end of the friggin world.nothing a wrench and some blue loctite couldn't fix.


later,sean

 

[turbojimmy]

Originally posted by SideSlip
Ya........It's a rod bearing. The engine is original and only has 30,000 miles total and has never seen more than 15lbs. boost. I thought these Buick V-6 short blocks were tough.......what gives???? My stock 5.0 short block could take more abuse.

Anyway Turbo Regals rule......and I want to prove it to my Stang buddys, so what should I do for a re-build??? I want something that will stand mid 11's easily. Suggestions????

Mine lasted 92k miles, the last few thousand were hard on it, though. It was stolen, and the theives drove it like they stole it. I cranked up the boost and with some minor bolt-ons was running consistent high-12s on street tires. The straw that broke the camel's back was the PT51, cam, and 98 octane chip. Was tuning for alky and let it knock a little too much (trying to see where the line was between needing alky and not needing alky - oops). Took the #5 bearing out of it. Mr. Testa suspects contamination from the Scotch-brite pads I used to clean the heads up when I did the cam swap, too. The crank was pretty scratched up.

As far as what to do with it, call around to some machine shops or ask other Buick people in the know in your area. Everyone is going to have a different opinion on various aspects of the rebuild. The guy I wound up with was recommended by other Buick folk who have used him, which is the best way to go IMO. Lacking a recommendation, talk to some machinists and go with one you're comfortable with.

Jim

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

i had some loose convertor bolts, and it would only make alot of noise when i cranked it up, or shut it off-

i guess if you plan on taking the motor out, then unbolt the convertor bolts, and push the convertor away from the flexplate..
then start it up and see if it still makes all that noise-

if it goes away, then that will save you alot of time and $$

HTH

 

[Red Regal T]

Originally posted by SideSlip
Ya........It's a rod bearing. The engine is original and only has 30,000 miles total and has never seen more than 15lbs. boost. I thought these Buick V-6 short blocks were tough.......what gives???? My stock 5.0 short block could take more abuse.

These little V6 motors are very stout as many of you will agree. My car went to 180,000 miles before I spun a bearing at the track and it was totally my fault because I overreved the motor. Funny thing about odometers though, is that they only go to 99,999. Then, you drive a little more and they magically go back to 00000. If you don't own a car since new, hard to say how many miles a car actually has. Being in the car business for many years makes me skeptical of 30,000 mile, 15 year old cars. That's 2000 miles a year. I put that on in a month. I'm sure real low mileage TRs exist............hell, there's a whole bunch of them right here on this board.

 

[SideSlip]

The rear rod bearing on the passenger side was burnt to a crisp. The pan was full of bearing metal, but the crank was in pretty good shape, I might even get away with a polish, but that's wishful thinking.

How do I prevent this from happenning again?

 

[Quick6]

Originally posted by SideSlip
The rear rod bearing on the passenger side was burnt to a crisp. The pan was full of bearing metal, but the crank was in pretty good shape, I might even get away with a polish, but that's wishful thinking.

How do I prevent this from happenning again?

Sounds like rear cylinder lean-out. What injectors and how old? Maybe it's time for new "flowed" injectors.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Rod matl in the pan and a "polish"??

I'd NOT do that!! The brg matl has gone thru every oil passage,oil pump, lifter, p.rod, behind the cam brgs, and is even in the engine oil cooler and the cooler hoses. [and who knows where else.]
If you don't want to do it again, as in SOON, take it apart, rebuild it the right way and "live happliy everafter"!!!

TRUST ME!!! BTDT!!

 

[SideSlip]

Thanks for the advice Chuck..........what's the recipie for a consistant mid-11 sec. short block? I want something that can take it. Thanks. R.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

GOOD SB

SS, I'd do some research and find a REAL TR engine guy and go to him.
If I were doing an 11 sec, RELIABLE S/B, it would have the following:
Reworked stock rods w/ ARp fasteners put in the right way.
Hone, but NOT bored unless it's out and/or damaged.
TRW pistons w/ a 1/16, 1/16, 3/16 ring package.. filed to fit.
206 cam, lifters, HD rockers and shafts, moly p. rods.
I would also check line bore, add steel caps on 2&3,
ETC,ETC
Additionally:
Heads would be done right w/ a light port and a GOOD multi angle valve job, BEING SURE the valve hgts are all the same!!

If you can, look at the latest 2 issues og GMHT.. Kack Merkle @ Ron'S Automotive has done a good writeup including part numbers and costs.
I'd even consider getting a S/B from them and save the hassle and the delays and the chances the guy is not a REAl TR guy!!