You can type here any text you want

Just got back from the dyno. numbers and set up listed

  • Thread starter Thread starter Chris Taylor
  • Start date Start date

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!
C

Chris Taylor

Guest
We took my friends 86 T to the dyno tonight. It was 90* outside and 98*-100* in the dyno room.
This is a stock 30,000-mile unopened motor. This car has the following set up:

PT51
V2 front mount I/C
50# injectors
Hemco plenum
3” DP (open dump)
Volt booster
340 Walbro with hot wire
Ram air
JL race chip
Level 10 shift kit
JW 10” 3200-3400 converter (non Lockup)
160* thermostat

We were running 26-27 psi of boost with 110 oct. race fuel.

All runs were within 2-3 hp. We made six pulls with the best pull of 432hp @ 526tq. This was with 26# of boost and no knock. The dyno guy said the car would have made about 25-50 more hp if the barometric pressure and temperature had been better. He was figuring about 22% hp loss through the driveline. Is this a correct calculation? I thought these were good numbers for such a hot evening and poor conditions. Not to mention a unopened motor.

This car runs 6.99-7.0’s in the 1/8 @ 100-102 mph.
 
THOSE #'s look real well--
but i cant believe that its running 100-102 in the 1/8 and only 6.99 and 7.00
either the car is very light( good mph)
or not getting out of the hole very hard!!

what size fan did they have infront of the intercooler???

how much time did you leave between runs?

get a lockup convertor, and sell the hemco.. get the power plate and look for around 500 hp when its colder out!!

nice pulls by the way

was it a dyno jet??

are these corrected figures?

let us know
 
That's more what I was looking for in #s.

But you had a few more psi and a chunk more timing. I was @ 24psi & 22* with 100 unleaded. My latest 1/8 was 7.85 @ 89, 1/4 - 12.2 @113.
 
The mph in the 1/8 on a 6.98 et is around 99-100. He has ran a little more mph. This was with a lock up converter. I installed the JW 10" converter because of the lag with the V2. No lag now!:D

The primary fan was a huge box style, about sholder high and 50" wide. I was moving some wind. He had two more of the round 45" fans also. The dyno guy said this is what Super Flow recommended to use.

We waited around 20min. or so between pulls.

The dyno was a very sweet Super Flow.

Numbers were non corrected, power at the wheels.

The dyno guy said he felt the car would pull close to 500 hp if the weather conditions were better. The A/F was fat on top. I told my friend we needed to put the stock plenum back on and get a Power Plate. This car is to the point of needing a way to put fuel and timing in or out. He needs a ME or Extender translator.

I must say this is a super strong running car. We did trailer the car to the dyno. We didn't have to wait around to cool the car off by trailering the car.
When we got home we went out to the highway and made a few blasts. We pulled a hard 1/4 mile pull @ 26-27 psi, 760 O2's and no knock, felt awesome!:cool:
 
Numbers

I am unclear about your actual numbers. You said it made 432hp but did not clarify if that was rwhp. You than said the guy figured 22% driveline loss. I am assuming the number you gave is motor horsepower with 22% added to the number from the rear wheels. There doesn't seem to be enough mods on the car to make 432 at the rear wheels.
 
Chyke,
Not trying to be a prick here, but you've got to be kidding me with that comment. Do you have any idea about turbo Buick powered cars and dyno numbers??? One cannot compare our motors to what one reads in the "magazines" about what's new on the market today, and make an educated statement about mods versus HP or torque. My buddy owns a Dynojet chassis dyno and allows me use it at my disposal...here are some examples for ya:

I'm sitting here looking at my most recent pulls with my TTA that has nothing more than a 2.5" stock elbow downpipe, SMC alky kit, hotwired Walbro 340, power plate, and no cat. It made at the rear tires, 342.5 HP and 472.6 torque @ 19-20 psi on pump gas and alky with the converter locked. This is a 13k mile unopened motor with OE valve springs!

My last car (GN) with OE big valve heads, 218-218 cam, 63-1 turbo, FM IC, MSD 50's, TH DP, 68mm TB, and a power plate made 523HP and WELL over 600 torque @ 23-24 psi with the converter locked and 114 octane! Now when you compare my previous set-up to the one in this thread, I had a tad more turbo, a slightly larger cam, and big valve heads.....I'd say that the subject motor is not quite making HP as it should.

As for driveline loss, I would say that the average TR driveline shows about an honest 14-18% loss, depending on the condition of the parts (rollerized tranny, gear lube etc...) At the boost level that car was running, I would have liked to see it make 500+ HP and a toprque number in the high 500 to low 600 range. With 1/8 miles times like that (VERY similiar to my old car), it should make 510-525HP and 600-630 torque easy! I bet if he went back with a LU converter and made some pulls in cooler weather, he's see those numbers no prob....

The LC2 motor is a torque monster despite its size, and makes gobs of HP if tuned right. Get the A/F ratio over 11.5:1 and below 12.5:1 for safety and watch as the bystanders are amazed at the power of a shortblock one can pick up by hand!!:)
 
The given hp number of 432 was at the rear wheels. The guy that runs the dyno said to add around 22% for the drive line loss to get motor hp. This car will make more hp. The A/F was around
13.5:1. As I stated before, fat on top. The poor conditions were a big factor.

The owner of this car wanted a non-lock up converter. He likes the performance of the 10" NL. He has used LU and NL converters in the past. The 10" NL converter is his preference.
 
>This car runs 6.99-7.0’s in the 1/8 @ 100-102 mph.

Very good times with that combo IMHO!
 
Another thing, the guy didn't want to remove the ram air duct from the filter. I told him the fan was not blowing enough air through the ram air duct like at the track. I think this may be why the A/F was way off. This would cause a loss in hp also.
 
Re: Numbers

Chyke - Yep, it really is RW #s, so it you take his RW ad add a conservative 15% DT loss, you get ~500 engine HP and ~600# TQ. I know, it seems unreal. Look @ my #s though. A friend of mine on the same day with virtually the exact same setup (except a '64 turbo @ ~27psi, and 2# more base FP) made ~450/600. This was with only 21* WOT timing!

BTW, at our dyno day we put ~7 cars up, and I believe the most shocked person was the #6 gey who stopped by with his '55 BBC. :D


Chris - The A/F was around 13.5:1?!?! That is pretty dang lean, IMO!


:-Dean
 
Dean,

Not sure where the A/F should be but I was thinking around 12.0:1.

I can tell you the car performed better on the street that night than on the dyno. O2's on the dyno were 780-790's. We ran 750-760's @ 26 psi. with no knock. This would be because of the air moving through the ram air. The car never did stop pulling!:D

No matter what the dyno numbers have to offer, this car rocks! It shut the guy up with the 2003 Cobra. One thing about the Fun Ford event this weekend, the Slowstangs come right through our town going to Bristol.:D
 
12.0-12.5 is what I understand to be the #, but that's just hearsay so far.

On my runs the A/F never went above 11.5, but given a couple more shots at leaning it out (with more boost!), it would have been higher. Here's a little bit of interesting info I gleaned from the day (all runs with base FP set @ 43#):

3rd run: T+ WOT fuel setting @ 2% rich… A/F sub-10.0 (min parameter), O2s just under 0.820.

4th run: T+ WOT fuel setting @ 0% rich… A/F ~11.0 peak @ 5550rpm, O2s ~0.810.

5th run: T+ WOT fuel setting @ 2% lean… A/F ~11.4, O2s ~0.805.



WOW! There was a 0.010 O2 change between runs 3 & 4, which equated to a +1.0 A/F change! Then another 0.005 change between runs 4 & 5, which equated to a +0.4 A/F change. At the track I typically run a bit on the safe side, between .760-.770/0.0KR with 100 unleaded, though I've had it down to .740 (and it feels REAL good!). I wonder what A/F that is?

I would like to do this again, leaning it out to get an idea of how various O2 readings equate to A/F readings.


Be nice to your Bristol going bretheren.;)


:-Dean
 
Chris, what turbo you running? Where in NC are you from?
 
Your answer

I stopped reading your post after the first two sentences. I am dead serious with my comments. Good for your friend who owns a dyno jet, I'm sure you feel proud. I also own one myself and it's not that big a deal. F' U for implying I read something in a magazine. Yes I own a buick v6 turbo and a dutwillier 318 twin turbo and etc. The point is I asked a polite question and you did give a prick answer. So F you and your buddys slow piece of ****. Maybe your attitude works with your blue collar friends. But not here. learn how to answer appropriatly or piss off.
 
Wow.... This thread just took a dump. :(

Is there anyway you guys can get this car to a 1/4 mile track and get some good numbers?

I love what these cars can do with unopened motors. :D
 
Re: Numbers

Originally posted by Chyke
I am unclear about your actual numbers. You said it made 432hp but did not clarify if that was rwhp. You than said the guy figured 22% driveline loss. I am assuming the number you gave is motor horsepower with 22% added to the number from the rear wheels.

Even if the dyno was totally off, it's run 6.98@99 mph in the 1/8th mile.

There doesn't seem to be enough mods on the car to make 432 at the rear wheels.

"mods" don't make hp. Knowing how to apply mods makes hp.

Congrats on the numbers, Chris, but I bet there is more in it.
 
Back
Top