Just Shut Down on me!?

[SpeedRacerX]

So what might cause the following?

Car was warmed up and it's been running great since the latest upgrades. Took it around the block. Final turn towards my house, I goosed it full, dump open, 22-33#, alky light glowing green. Heard a pop like a back fire, a stumble and then a pop when I let off. Car just shut off and I literally coasted down the road, into my development, turned down my street and into my driveway.

Car keeps cranking but will not start. Cranking is slowing probably due to the battery. It's getting spark. All underhood wires, plugs and clamps are tight and in place.

Any clues what might cause this out of the blue and during a little street blast?

Key on I don't think I'm hearing the fuel pump prime. Could I have blown a fuse or relay?


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[pacecarta]

pump prime needs about ten seconds off to recycle
if no prime it could be a fuse for the pump either on the hotwire or under dash FP/inj fuse
a quick swap of the pump connector back to the oe (remove hotwire jumper) and you can determine if the hotwire fuse or relay is the cause , if it runs the hotwire relay or fuse is popped
once it back on oe wire if still no pump try connecting the fuse prime wire to a 12v source (like the underhood lamp wire)
if it runs then the fuse under dash is popped
if pump works pull the cam sensor cap and see if the reluctor disc is still tight

 

[earlbrown]

Does the exhaust pipe smell like raw gas?


...and do you really not have a fuel pressure gauge? Even one of those crappy rail mounted units?

 

[SpeedRacerX]

Thanky you guys.

Fuse under dash looks good. Swapped the connectors near the tank for the hot wire and that didn't help. Fuse in weather pack bolted to alternator is good.

I have a transducer on the end of the fuel rail to run the electric fuel pressure gauge in my car. When it cranks, I see the fuel pressure coming up. On key turn but not start, I hear and see nothing not even after sitting for a couple hours. I don't recall if the fuel pressure gauge in the car only works when running or even with just key on.

Now the cranking is slowing badly. I just put the battery on my tender to try to bring it up. I did hear rattling or light knocking from the alternator the last two times I drove the car. I wonder if the alternator is gone and it has something to do with this whole thing.

I'll have to let this car charge a bit and then jump into the other things you mentioned Paul.

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[SpeedRacerX]

No, it never smelled like raw gas. I also cheked the oil and I see nothing milky in there, just oil.

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[Cyclops389]

It may have cooked the coil. Are you running a stock coil?

I had the issue and it turned out to be the coil pack


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[SpeedRacerX]

It may have cooked the coil. Are you running a stock coil?

I had the issue and it turned out to be the coil pack


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I put in whatever Kirban sells as a replacement about 3 years ago. It still has the original ignition module.

I'm not hearing this fuel pump prime at all. Going to jump it back at the fuel pump hot wire weatherpack and give it straight 12v from the alternator and see if the pump runs.

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[bpman1234]

same thing happened to me was bad wiring inside the tank .was getting power all the way to sender. but inside was bad connections.

 

[earlbrown]

I have a transducer on the end of the fuel rail to run the electric fuel pressure gauge in my car. When it cranks, I see the fuel pressure coming up. On key turn but not start, I hear and see nothing not even after sitting for a couple hours. I don't recall if the fuel pressure gauge in the car only works when running or even with just key on.

Odds are you're good. During KOEO the fuel pump primes for about 2 seconds. The ECM won't turn the pump back on until the engines running.

...which yours won't.


Get back to basics.... You only need compression, fuel, and spark.

You said you had spark... but you don't know if it's at the right time (timing light). You have fuel pressure.... but you don't know if the injectors are spraying (no gas smell). You have compression since the starter drags... but you don't know if the cam jumped time (which will move the same sensor as well).

 

[TOOMANYTOYS]

When my car did that on the parkway it ended up that the wire from the oil pressure sender had chafed on one of the brackets and grounded out.

Just a thought

 

[Mr.Spool]

So what might cause the following?

Car was warmed up and it's been running great since the latest upgrades. Took it around the block. Final turn towards my house, I goosed it full, dump open, 22-33#, alky light glowing green. Heard a pop like a back fire, a stumble and then a pop when I let off. Car just shut off and I literally coasted down the road, into my development, turned down my street and into my driveway.

Car keeps cranking but will not start. Cranking is slowing probably due to the battery. It's getting spark. All underhood wires, plugs and clamps are tight and in place.

Any clues what might cause this out of the blue and during a little street blast?

Key on I don't think I'm hearing the fuel pump prime. Could I have blown a fuse or relay?


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

check the cam sensor

 

[Pronto]

I don't see a Translator in your mods. Look back at logs and see if there are MAF drop outs.

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

Had the same issue with a GN a few days back. Swapped in a known good ECM and all's well.

 

[Nick Micale]

Being simple-minded, I would check ALL the fuses under the dash.

There are a couple fuses can kill the ignition/spark.

 

[whitehot1]

Had the same thing happen once. Turned out to be the crank sensor. I guess i got lucky with that, it only took about 15 minutes for me to come to the conclusion that it was the crank sensor. I just happened to have a spare one with me and was back up and running after installing it.

I had taken off from a traffic light a little aggressively and about midway of the block on the street i was on the engine made a loud pop / bang noise of a backfire and the engine shut down, i was able to coast to the next street and make the turn onto a nice grassy spot under a shade tree.

 

[Fat Nat]

If you have spark and not sure if fuel pump is working power the grey wire behind alt or hell just shoot some starting fluid in filter and see if it even try’s to fire

 

[dank GN]

I would check out your main fuseable links at your starter . I had the same thing happen to me awhile ago and it ended up being a nice and toasty positive wire at the starter

 

[whitehot1]

Typically:
No start - no spark, has inj pulse -> Module
No start - has spark no inj pulse -> ECM / cam sensor prob
No start - no spark OR inj pulse - crank sensor or module

 

[whitehot1]

Since you have spark it seems that injector pulse needs to be checked for next with a noid light.

 

[captndave737]

I've had that happen 3 times.
1. The fuel pump primer wire under the hood hit the header and shorted out blowing the FP fuse so thats not your issue. 5 minutes to find and fix.
2. Had the car towed 200 miles home to find out my plug and play Hotwire kit had a bad connection. 10 minutes to trouble shoot and 10 minutes to fix.
3. On the way back from RC's event a few years ago. Turned out to be a bad connection in the Plug and play adapter to my LS1 MAF. 5 minutes to figure it out and fix it.

So I've been very lucky in finding out the problem so quickly. Except for when I was towed. I tried to trouble shoot that on the side of I 95 but was scared shitless with cars going by at 90 mph and messed up the trouble shooting. The next morning with a clear head i had it figured out quickly.

I've been fortunate that I've never had any sensor go bad except the MAF in over 200k.