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Lets talk Oil (and I don't mean brands)

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It would be soooooooooooo much better if ethanol had water in it instead of ATF approved stuff that really has no business mixing with alcohol.
 
I do not think you can go wrong with any of the name brands, but Stabil has been around longer than most and was very impressed with their techs and information.
 
I also noticed when I spilled some E85 on my pants, that it evaporated rather quickly. I know when heat is added, the evaporation rate increases from this phase change, so one has to think that the E85 is also getting vaporized out with the water while normally driving.
 
I also noticed when I spilled some E85 on my pants, that it evaporated rather quickly. I know when heat is added, the evaporation rate increases from this phase change, so one has to think that the E85 is also getting vaporized out with the water while normally driving.

I wonder if having a fuel return or a returnless setup effects this at all. I see what you're saying though.
 
I wonder if having a fuel return or a returnless setup effects this at all. I see what you're saying though.
Well, im talking about the crankcase. If the oil gets hot enought to make water "boil" out, then it will increase the evaporation rate of the E85 that already has a high evaporation rate. I wonder if E85 has a lower viscosity than gas and getting past the rings like #% more under boost....Or like stated above, there is much more fuel in the cylinder raising the probability of it getting past the rings.Hmmm
 
Well, im talking about the crankcase. If the oil gets hot enought to make water "boil" out, then it will increase the evaporation rate of the E85 that already has a high evaporation rate. I wonder if E85 has a lower viscosity than gas and getting past the rings like #% more under boost....Or like stated above, there is much more fuel in the cylinder raising the probability of it getting past the rings.Hmmm

Conceptually intriguing. I like the thought process, but who's going to be the mule and how do we measure?
 
I would say the best thing to do to fight this, is run a 170-180 thermostat and anytime you start the car, drive it a few miles.
Years ago, everyone wanted the coolest temps to fight detonation, but we are well past that with the use of alky and E85.
I raised my fan turn-on point and go for a 10 mile cruise before even boosting anymore. I want to make sure everything is nice and hot before I hammer down. Just food for thought.
 
As for additives, yes, I do know about them, going a few posts back.
You have to use one that is listed for ethanol fuels, some of the marine ones are great too. I am an outdoor power equipment tech so I can't really say which of the name brands are best as most P.E. companies are made for them by someone else. The one I use is good for ethanol fuels, just more ethanol means shorter active life of said additive.
Gold Eagle did a hooplah presentation about their "start your engine" additive for when you have a P.E. engine with crappy old fuel in it, was interesting.
Anyway, as for oil and E-85, yes, good idea to raise t-stat to a more normal temp, more so to aid in burning off any extra water or ethanol in the oil. I have seen some people that had issues with E-85 as well as even e-10 with one brand of oil (you know what brand) caused it to sludge up and coagulate. Sucked bigtime for them . Monitor what the oil looks like. Like I had said before most cars here will never see the miles a DD does, but still wouldn't be a bad idea if running e85 to mentally cut the oil life in half. Just my opinion, oil is cheap, engine builds are not. and yes, ethanol is thinner than fuel, that is one of the reasons why auto manufacturers state to change your oil in half the standard interval is using E-85... It is hard to try to find viscosity of fuel vs ethanol as fuel is comprise of so many other chemicals, I say fuel as it is no longer gas anymore.

Another thing to note, I have compared the components of a gas vs flex engine and the pistons have a different part number, as do the rings, along with all the seals and gaskets on the intake side as well as the obvious injectors/fuel delivery items, as well as valves.... From what I have read to try to study in an attempt to figure out why I can not s/c my truck aside from gvt subsidies to automakers to implement flex fuel engines, pistons have a coating and rings/valves also are different to help aid in holding up against ethanol.
 
Combustion makes a lot of water no matter what kind of fuel your using. Gas, alcohol, diesel.
X2
ethanol
C2H5OH + 3O2 --> 2CO2 + 3H2O

Gas
2C8H18 + 25O2 --> 18H2O + 16CO2

That water goes into the exhaust and into the blow-by. If the exhaust pipe is cold, the water condenses. Same thing in the crankcase. If the crankcase is cold, the water in the blow by gas condenses. It evaporates later when the engine warms up.
 
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