LocWire HD probs, expert help please

[GTEATER]

LocWire HG probs, expert help please

For the last two years I have had every problem under the Sun starting with damage to Two motors related to the econo cam goat screw.

My last two times my engine has been out, for a total of 5 times in two years, was for HD problems. The first was leaking out the head externally, the last pushing the water out of the radiator into the overflow.

Just put the engine in with a new converter and have the same prob...under boost the water is pushed out into the overflow and the temp goes to 260d. Did a compression test (for unrelated check to see if the cam may be retarded cau8sing my car not to spool)...#1@140, #2@150, #3@148, #4@150,#5@145, #6@150. The car pulls like mad above 3800prm all the way to 6500..possible more if I pushed it there.

The second time the machine shop said the orings were off slightly and not quiet deep enough, so they recut them. At this point I'm wondering if there might be something else causing the water prob?

Is the cyl pressure above good numbers for a 218/212 roller installed straight up? And WTF keeps causing the water problems?

Thanks

 

[azgn]

stock block at 6500? egad

oh well, you might try some GM sealant tabs & retorque (torque first.....)

seemed to work on my car with steel shims

 

[GTEATER]

Block is girdled and 4 steel caps....Think sealat tabs will work? I put Two in...how many does it take?

 

[azgn]

thinking more tabs won't help....bad seal somewhere...guess I'd go beat on whoever put the gaskets in!

 

[NC87GN]

To add to gteaters post, temps are 160 and below at idle around town driving. You can drive the car here to china if you kept out of the boost (tells me thremostat is OK). It seems like its headgasket related but all the compression #'s are within a 10% delta of one another... Also checked the oil and it is not contaminated at all. What could cause this on the heads or is there something else that needs to be considered..? TIA

Johnny Wishbone

 

[GTEATER]

Machine shop owner is respectable TR racer that said the orings need to be .011...my engine builder said the need to be .005 with his experience...Felpro says .008.

Any reccomendations...how does the cyl press look?

 

[azgn]

I believe it is definitely headgasket related....comp test tells you only if the gasket is blown...at boost, maybe heads lifting a bit...enough to blow some boost into a water passage, and back into the rad...try lower boost...retorque...or completely redo the gaskets

 

[GTEATER]

If heads were cut .005 and block decked .008 would there be a potential leak prob at the intake if it was not machined also?

 

[azgn]

think so...but if it was off much, it wouldn't fit.....I had to machine my intake with the steel shims to get it to fit

 

[Joe Tiano]

fel pro lok wire gaskets are the problem...it sounds to me like the wire itself is not letting the gasket "compress" completley...and thats why your loosing coolant...the recever grooves are not right and is most likely the prob...you might consider the webber racing o ring set up w a stock type gasket jus my O2 joe

 

[GTEATER]

what is the weber set up

 

[GTEATER]

Could it be water pump related

 

[Joe Tiano]

sorry...i was under the impression you were running FEL-PRO lok wire h gaskets...and i thought the webber set up used a 86-87 GM type gasket...with a wire o ring in the head? joe

 

[NC87GN]

My question would be how do you check if the gasket is compressed enough or at all? I know the gasket will have taken a visual set in some places but how much is enough? Do we mic the thickness, of the gasket, when the head is removed to insure? Also what should that thickness be?

Johnny Wishbone

 

[GTEATER]

you lost me now...I thought Weber oringd the block not the heads...I am running 1007 felpro gaskets

 

[Joe Tiano]

welp...i dont think this will help but..a stock GM headgasket mesures 0.0655 thick(old gasket off virgin motor with factory bolts).from what i was told..the 3.8 4 bolt per cyl can not apply enough "crush" to compress the STEEL o ring on the the fail-pro gaskets...the recever grooves have to be PERFECT...and then you might get lucky!..jus my O2 joe

 

[Intercooler]

Well if you had your heads decked and didn't deepen the groove back up to at least .008" deep you will never get them to seal. I have had 1007's on two motors now and no leaks. Use the Fel-Pro torque sequence and specs, #2 Permatex on the threads and half a pack of seal tabs and the radiator (for insurance in a crushed powder state) and never a problem. Sounds like your machining is off.

 

[GTEATER]

the original orings were direct from Champion and were between .007 and .009.

The heads were surfaced and orings cut to .011, torqued to spec, and 2 seal tabs(all I had left).

I agree something is off, but where?

 

[Mac in SD]

FelPro Torque Sequence

A small item in Intercooler's response is what made the difference with my loc-wires. Completely different torque sequence..70 ft.lb inside-out across the top, then 70 ft.lb. inside out across the bottom. Then 80 ft.lb inside-out across the top row. It's on the directions in the Fel-Pro package. The factory torque sequence doesn't work with them... Also, I used Gaska-cinch all over the gasket, including the loc-wires. Haven't had a problem for about 5 years now. HTH.

 

[GTEATER]

I followed Felpro torque seq....have already thought of the Gasketcinch next go round.