Looking for help, not to belittling...

Your car feels slower than 11.4 because if you have the stock turbo on it, it wasn't on there when it ran 11.4! Along with maybe a few other things.

If the equipment is in place that it had when it ran 11.4 then you obviously have some things to work out.

I would confirm what components you currently have in place before expecting any specific performance numbers.
I will have to check the converter and extend my fuel pressure gauge so I can make sure it is getting enough boost. I will double check the numbers on my chip and get the boost closer to where it is suppose to be. The cam is not coming out right this second. If I can keep the engine together that is the plan. I was never in the car when it was an 11.4 car. I understand people saying it's not possible, however I have the slips from the track and a trust worthy source. If it was with a different turbo he never mentioned that. I am not trying to argue with anyone, just telling the facts I have been told and looking at the slips I have in my hand. I am located in northern Minnesota. I have reached out to the people I used to know but have not heard from anyone yet.
Most of us that have pushed a stock block, turbo, converter even with alky were only able to get a 12.0 time slip. I have a 212/212 cam in my car now and with a 3000 stall converter and a Old TE-60 turbo on E-85 it’s a lot of fun on the street. I don’t think any of us doubt your car ran 11.4 but it was probably done with a bigger turbo and maybe even a different converter. Most of us would return our cars to stock trim if we were selling them and sell off the performance parts separately or keep the parts if we planned to buy and build another one later.

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Do you have any data ? Scanmaster? That is one of the first things anyone should buy when they acquire one of these cars . A alky is one of the best things u can do as it allows you to turn up the boost safely. After alky I would suggest a bigger turbo because the stock turbo is past its efficiency at 19-20 Lbs . After that boost level all you are doing is creating Abunch of excuses heat. Of course u would need a matching chip . There is a lot of ppl in your position where they believe there car should be a lot faster then it is just because they have read it on the internet . The one thing I can tell you that if u want a reliable decently fast car it takes a lot of the correct parts installed correctly. The stock stuff is fine if u are okay with 13-14sec slips but if u want To go faster you will have to buy and replace a lot of the stock stuff . Just because one guy did it on the internet the majority of ppl will not be able to hit low11 high 10s on a stock motor . Good luck on your mission of speed keep on spoolin :)
Your car feels slower than 11.4 because if you have the stock turbo on it, it wasn't on there when it ran 11.4! Along with maybe a few other things.

If the equipment is in place that it had when it ran 11.4 then you obviously have some things to work out.

I would confirm what components you currently have in place before expecting any specific performance numbers.
Chuck I cannot remember... I know I set it using TT suggestions so I want to say I set it to what was suggested with the line off. Dank, I have a scanmaster but I have not had a chance to fire it up and get all of the numbers to post on here. My goals were set on what I was told my car did previously. I have no idea adjusting and looking at my car realistically. My goals were not from what I read on the internet, because we all know everything you read on the internet is true.
Alright guys, update time. After reading through all these posts and everyone asking me if this is done and what the readings are on that I am starting at square one, which is what has been suggested many times over throughout this thread. I need to make sure there are no vacuum leaks, good grounds, proper fuel pressure, and a boat load of other issues. Once I have all of that answered I will update this thread again. I really appreciate all of the advice and pointing in the right direction. Thanks guys
Alright, here are the parts that are on the car, updates, and numbers... I know something is messed up after reading everything that was posted but I am not sure where to start. And I reread the slips, fastest this car has a record of is 12.1 at 108. Here we go:
Hooker Super Comp Dual 2.5 exhaust
Poston 3'" down pipe
PT&E remote Oiling system
Heated O2 sensor (not sure if I have replaced this with a stock one or not)
Poston adjustable fuel pressure regulator
Comp cam 212/212
High flow fuel pump with hot wire kit
Says there are 50# kenne Bell injectors but I do not think this is what TT found when I gave him the p/n off the injectors.
Heavy duty valve springs
mild port work to intake and heads
stock turbo with about 3-3500 miles
Stock intercooler
Paperwork I have says nothing about the transmission, believed to be stock. It is not slipping from what I can tell.
The following numbers are coming off a scanmaster 2.1. Computer has a TT 5.7 chip that is programmed for the cam and how the car is now.
At start up:
O2 371
AF 06
LB 33
INT 128
BL 128
ATS 82
CLT 120
RPM 900
IAC 84
CC 118
Fuel pressure with hose on is 40 PSI, hose off is 47 PSI. I could not watch the fuel pressure while driving because I do not have the hose to do that yet.
Coolant at 170:
O2 660
AF 04
LB 30
INT 135
BL (in gear) 142. I know this is way wrong. Starting point? (not in gear) 138
ATS 102
IAC 60
CC was all over the place

I know I have some old technology. I am not sure where to start. Hopefully this answers some of the questions you guys were asking. I know the BL is way off and I feel like the fuel pressure is off to. TPS reads .42 and 4.42 at WOT. Thanks again guys. I am still trying to trouble shoot this car as I get time. I know I will not be rodding on it any time soon because today when it was making boost there was a ton of knock. Can't wait to hear what you guys have for me...
WOT with low boost O2 was reading 795 and then the knock started so I lifted. It was able to build boost tonight but I didn't dare stay in it at all.
First thing that stands out is the fp. TT recommends starting at 43 line off. You need to post the key on engine off tps foot off the pedal and then full to the floor with no mat in the way. Your IAC is way out too. Read the Vortex Basics section on TPS and IAC. You mentioned the CC doesn't show up on the Scanmaster. I have no experience with a heated O2 but maybe it's screwed up and messing with that reading...
First thing that stands out is the fp. TT recommends starting at 43 line off.

^^ this and if the chip is programmed for 36 lb. injectors and the car really has 50 lb. injectors installed you'd be dumping a lot of fuel in that beast ???
I will double check the injectors. I have had a raw fuel issue since the beginning and the car gets shit for mileage. Thanks for the starting points guys.
I have no experience with heated o2 sensors either. But I can tell you my stock narrowband sensor reads low 700's (lean) at WOT the same time my AEM wideband reads 10.6 ish to 1 (a little rich). Narrow bands are low tech. Cross counts (CC) should be constantly counting up and then starting over while driving. CC not moving indicates a lazy or fouled o2 sensor. I still think it sounds like the car is too rich from what you are saying. Add some octane for a cushion while tuning and see if the knock goes away. Could be false or from being too rich.
Stuff like this bugs me would you fix it already so we know <joke. Small parts I'm tellin' ya, start throwin' em.

Some of those symptoms of raw fuel, poor mileage and no power are the wastegate system...according to my research.
Have you pulled the chip to confirm what it is and you really need to find out what injectors you have. Once that known for sure other things can be addressed.
A heated O2 cannot be plugged into a non heated harness. The OEM sensor is a 1 wire deal.
O2 at 795 doesn't look like it's running rich. KR at 10 lbs. of boost and 795 O2 sounds like low octane fuel to me.
Was the 02 on the wot blast using the recall feature? How much KR?
I agree the 91 octane fuel isn't helping, but I wouldn't entirely trust the o2 reading either. At 10.8:1 to 11:1 afr on my wideband sensor, my stock o2 sensor can give readings anywhere from 710-780.

As captndave asked, what was the KR and at what speed did it occur using the recall? Same question for o2. Do you see the KR numbers jumping all over (i.e. 4.9, 1.5, 2.3), or is it steadily increasing until you let off?
KR was steadily rising. I did not get back out to my car to grab the part number and see what they come back as. The chip has not been out since I received it from TT. KR was crazy though, like a steady rise to 14.5 from a stop, I let up immediately. I was once told knock should be tested while driving by having to down shift into third and see if there is any KR then but I don't know if that is true so I have no put to much stock into that. I didn't think that 91 octane would be that bad but I can try a booster to see if that helps anything. My first thought is to check the injectors and then reset the FP to TT recommendations. Also, will be checking the O2 to see if it is a single wire or not. I may have that plugged into the wrong spot but I doubt it. I am not a complete idiot when it comes to cars, just this one apparently. In all honesty I should have reached out years ago but the car started to take a back seat to life. Now I just want to enjoy the car.
I did watch some videos on youtube that someone on here mentioned and one was addressing vacuum leaks. I have gone over all the lines and they look like they are in good shape. However, the guy mentions where a vacuum hose y's just before the turbo. One goes to the turbo and one to the wastegate and if those are messed up it will "limit" the turbo or something like that. Something about the y ports being different sizes. Do anyone know what he means by this and which one goes where?
Thanks again guys. Keep the info coming.