Looking for help, not to belittling...

[XBreed]

Stuff like this bugs me would you fix it already so we know <joke. Small parts I'm tellin' ya, start throwin' em.

Some of those symptoms of raw fuel, poor mileage and no power are the wastegate system...according to my research.

I AM TRYING! haha

 

[MikeS]

If the knock was increasing it was probably real. Set the fuel pressure to 43 line off and try adding a few gallons of race gas. You can also back off the timing a degree or two in 3rd gear using the tt chip to see if that helps with the knock.

 

[MikeS]

I haven't had the stock style wastegate solenoid for a long time so I won't guess at that. I tune by going about 40 and rolling into full throttle in 3rd on the highway, zero knock, 10.9:1 afr and steady fuel pressure unti i let up.

 

[XBreed]

I haven't had the stock style wastegate solenoid for a long time so I won't guess at that. I tune by going about 40 and rolling into full throttle in 3rd on the highway, zero knock, 10.9:1 afr and steady fuel pressure unti i let up.

When I am moving and get on it there is next to no KR. Similar to what you were saying, 40 to WOT with no KR

 

[MikeS]

OK add some octane (not parts store octane booster) for a tuning cushion and verify you can make clean pulls at low boost. Sometimes flooring it, wheel spin, or crappy roads can induce false knock. If you can maintain WOT with steady fuel pressure 1:1 with boost (43psi base pressure with 10 lbs boost should see 53lbs fuel pressure on the gauge) and zero KR through 3rd gear you should be fine. Verify your chip is matched to your injectors. Then up the boost a pound at a time rolling into it in 3rd on the highway.

I consider a wideband cheap insurance for tuning. I also keep my 3rd gear timing low- on pump gas 18 degrees-even if it costs a few hp. I've only changed one head gasket in 15 years, with half of that time spent between 25-33psi. And I always beat on my car.

 

[Anthony P]

hold off on doing boosted test runs until you address what @Pronto noted.

Get the IAC counts down to 10-30. Each time you adjust IAC, have to re-adjust TPS, then re-adjust IAC and so on until the parameters are reached for both IAC and TPS.
the vortex buicks site mentioned is http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/index.html
can also read how to set IAC on gnttype.org here

Raw fuel problem and the unknown of injector sizing matching TT chip would have me stop in my tracks until I confirmed what injectors are installed and what injectors that TT is burned for.

 

[MikeS]

Yeah if I wasn't clear in my earlier posts, upping the boost was for after the TPS, IAC, fuel etc... were all within spec.

 

[XBreed]

I have 42# injectors, confirmed from TT and chips to match. FP is 43#s with the line off. I will have to check into how to adjust the IAC and then do that. I am planning on putting a couple gallons of race gas into it just so the octane is up while I am attempting to get things dialed in. I will keep updating.

 

[XBreed]

Is there a way to verify the car is in closed loop so I can start to mess with the IAC? besides with a scan tool?

 

[Pronto]

See post 11 and 46

 

[Anthony P]

I don't believe so. I use a regular scan tool (Auto X-ray EZ Scan 5000). don't have a scan master....wanted a tool that could scan and record the parameters from any vehicle I had, regardless of manufacturer. Any ODB-1 scan tool will work.

Attached is a spreadsheet I made to record the data values. While it's for all the available parameters of the factory chip, it may help you record data during your diagnostic process.

Engine should enter closed loop operation once it warms up to normal operating temp and the O2 sensor heats up enough to provide a good reading. Eric could confirm what specific values his TT chip changes to Closed loop.

Read in the notes for version 5.7 TT chip features "Open loop idle for smoothness, idle BLM still has learning capability (not locked to 128). "

IAC adjustment is done at idle, so maybe just get the engine to normal operating temp with a good O2 sensor reading.

EDIT ADD: and follow @Pronto's reply above...

 

[XBreed]

Latest update, Put the hot O2 back in. It is a multi wire O2 and it is giving back the same readings I was getting with the single. I put three gallons of 110 in it and it loves it. It is running smoother and no more knock at low boost. I adjusted the IAC to 16 and TPS to .44. Car seems happier but I messed with a bunch of stuff and I am not sure which helped the most. BL at idle is still 131-141, not sure why. I have the street chip in and the correct boost level. I will continue to go over Prontos suggested website and see what I can find on there. Thanks again guys and good night.

 

[A2000RICH]

many converters in the GM line had the D5 stamping. That alone does little to establish that it was a correct TR converter. The only way to insure that it is a correct converter for a TR is the stick on label with the letters CBCF............i have seen this label survive on cars that are over 100k miles especially if the cover was kept in place.

 

[Pronto]

Did your CC's come back on the Scanmaster after you put a regular O2 sensor in?

 

[XBreed]

CC are climbing and starting over. That's what they are suppose to do right?

 

[Pronto]

Yes. Looks like the heated O2 was messing that up. A sluggish or stuck cc would indicate an O2 sensor issue.

 

[XBreed]

Actually I just put the heated O2 back in the car. They are climbing like they are suppose too.

 

[XBreed]

Is a powerlogger from TT worth the money? Thanks

 

[mikestertwo]

Is a powerlogger from TT worth the money? Thanks

YES !!

 

[Pronto]

Absolutely.