Looking for some fuel system ideas (aftermarket stuff)

[gnxtc2]

Here's a pic in this thread of the champion spacer. Only drawback when you put the spacer on the Vac block on the TB will chew up the hood insulation in time.

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/parts-wanted/293134-champion-fuel-rail-use-external-regualtor.html

I would run all the vacuum and MAP sensors off the back of the plenum spacer. I then make a 1/4" blank plate for the top of the TB to block the ports.

There is a pic in the above link with spacer tapped for the vacuum stuff.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

 

[ttypewhite]

I would run all the vacuum and MAP sensors off the back of the plenum spacer. I then make a 1/4" blank plate for the top of the TB to block the ports.

There is a pic in the above link with spacer tapped for the vacuum stuff.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

I ran a couple vaccum lines off of the back of my intake into a vaccum block that I use for all of my vaccum lines. Got it at Princess Auto for $8. Its less then 5" long.

 

[yullose]

My cometic head gaskets are seeping oil between the head and the block. This is probably due to the wrong finish on the block or deck surface, something you should also look into before you have a leaking monster like i do.

Yeah, I will pay special attention to sealing up the cometics. I've read SO many complaints about them, I really wish there were something better.

I've managed to seal up coppers and cometics on BBC's, so hopefully I have the same luck with the Buick.

 

[bison]

Yeah, I will pay special attention to sealing up the cometics. I've read SO many complaints about them, I really wish there were something better.

I've managed to seal up coppers and cometics on BBC's, so hopefully I have the same luck with the Buick.

RJC stainless if your using a stock block. They dont leak or blow. 33psi for about 3 mos and no problems

 

[yullose]

RJC stainless if your using a stock block. They dont leak or blow. 33psi for about 3 mos and no problems

Well... I pulled a pair of the RJC's off the car after they were pushing pressure into the overflow.

Did I read somewhere that RJC discontinued one of the designs due to problems ? The thicker gaskets maybe ?

I think the ones I pulled off were .060's and a fairly old/original design. I think the motor was put together around the end of '06 ???

Did RJC upgrade/improve the gaskets since then ? Maybe a thinner, more compressable design ?

I don't remember where I read the info, but I'm fairly sure of it.

If the RJC's are the new "better mousetrap", I'll get a pair of 'em ordered tomorrow.




TA aluminum heads
_________________ <<<< what should I put between them ?
ARP head studs
Stock 8-bolt 109 block


To be honest, I'm really not too afraid or worried about the cometics leaking. I've sealed-up a few motors with copper gaskets, and the biggest thing is, surface prep and attention to detail. I always put a film of RTV around all the coolant passages on both the block and heads.
I was gonna pull the rivets from the cometics and install them one layer at a time, using RTV silicone at all the coolant areas.
I will also use a low pressure radiator cap so it doesn't push the water past the gaskets. I'd rather it went into the overflow bottle.

 

[yullose]

The fuel system is in. I will need to cut/fit the rail feed/return hoses once the motor is back in the car.

I will eventually dual-feed the pump and get a higher capacity filter behind it, but for now, this will do... since I already had it ordered.

The gas gage works too.

Here's a couple pics:

I also got the -06 fitting for the fuel rail and a pressure port fitting for my FP transducer.

 

[norbs]

Those don't look like teflon braided lines to me? You will find out if it smells like gas as soon as you prime the system, but if it doesn;t bother you, then its no issue. Looks good though.

 

[yullose]

I'm not really sure what you mean by "smelling gas"... Leaks ???

I've been using steel braided rubber line for 25+ years and on countless applications... with never a problem.

Now, if I were running alcohol through the system, I would certainly step up to the high-dollar teflon hoses.

I flushed the system yesterday... today I will make a fitting to loop it through the return side and flush that half of the system. I will also bring it up to pressure and test the regulator. I don't anticipate any problems.

The only place I expect to smell gas is at the vent on the fuel cell.

 

[jasjamz]

Nice, When's the motor going in?

 

[yullose]

ASAP.

I'm bolting the heads on right now...

I 'gotta measure for pushrods and get them ordered later today.

I'd say sometime next week it should be back in the car.


BTW... I pressure tested the whole fuel system and it works like a champ.

With the regulator all the way out it won't make more than 2-3psi. The regulator is more than adequate with this pump/line combo.

 

[yullose]

Well... The motor is back in the car... and I 'gotta say I'm one of the luckiest guys alive.

Just so happens that the pushrods that were in my motor before, are perfect for this combination. They measured up just fine... 8.500 is dead on the money.

The intake valley pan gasket from Fel-Pro also fits perfect. The gasket thickness is fine and the bolt holes line up great.

The heads & intake need port-matching, but nothing I can't live with for the remainder of the Summer.

Two issues I ran in to regarding quality control.

1) 15 of the 16 new ARP head studs were fine. ONE of them had metric threads on the block side of the stud. Luckily, I had a box of spares in the garage and was able to find one that would work.

2) One of the T&D rocker hex adjuster screws wasn't completely broached for an allen wrench. There was just barely enough for my allen wrench to bite and adjust the valve. TA Performance is sending me a new one.

Monday I will ship them the Fvcked up ARP head stud and T&D rocker adjuster so they can see I'm not crazy.

 

[GNBRETT]

Looks great.

 

[yullose]

It's been a busy day.

 

[norbs]

I found some interesting reading on YB forums about why braided line has issues. Read below. I had to get rid of all my braided lines, I could not go in the garage even without getting a headache.

Re: steel braided fuel line that stinks ....on the outside?
It's called fuel permeation.

Do a search and you will find lots of info. Most people have had issues with leaking stainless braided line because the fuel rots the line when sitting. Espically pump gas. It will sometimes smell with new line too, keep that in mind. Stainless braided line is only good for around 4 to 5 years then you will have this issue. We have found this with new fresh lines too.

We have that same problem on a Grand National now with new line. We tried it with Earl's Prolite 350 and Aeroquip stainless braided line. Is the car in question running pump gas? Most problems are with pump gas. Mainly because of the ethanol and other ingredients of pump gas today. Grab the fuel line with your hand and hold it for 5 sec, then smell your hand!

Earl's recommends using teflon line just because of this. Posted right on their website. We never had this problem with our cars that run VP fuels. Even then you have to replace it ever 4-5 years or so. Mainly just the ones that run pump gas, and not all are affected. Best way to get rid of this issue is to go with teflon or Kevlar line.


Your fuel pump flows 650lb/hr@75 psi according to the chart at 13.5 volts

one gallon of fuel weighs 6.15lbs@70F
650lbs/hr / 6.15lbs=105.7 gal/hr
105.7 gal/hr / 60 min= 1.76 gal/min

Seems like a stout pump should support safely 650lbs/hr / .6BSFC = 1083 bhp OR 850 RWHP, without any loss from the lines.

 

[yullose]

Thanks for the info Norbs... Good to know I won't be running out of fuel pump any time soon.


I finally got everything hooked up and running today... She purrs like a kitten.

End of day pics:

 

[Chrisk]

Any chance to get the pictures back up of your cell install?
I will be starting on my install soon and your pictures would help me out some.

Thanks,
Chris

 

[yullose]

Sorry... I rearranged my photobucket account and it must have zapped all the hotlinked pics.

This is all I can find for now.

 

[yullose]

The above pics were taken earlier in the season.

This is what it looks like right now with the battery and nitrous bottle in the trunk. (The battery hold down has since been upgraded too)