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Lost every race! Need build info, help me im slow!

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????

No not at all...you said you heard them BGC elbows were junk and I agree..so we square on 20 bucks for that or what?

One thing I do know when information is not shared equally someone (Me) will be at the mercy of (You). Are the BGC elbows ok? I just havent seen many buicks with them on them these days. But hell I dont see any other buicks up here!!!
 
"1.Scanmaster (DO NOT do ANYTHING else to the car until you have one). Order today, will tis work with a fast xfi, I only ask becasue O do not have all of the parts to make stock, and I know that this Haltech is dated.
2.Good fuel Pump (Walbro, or Denso Supra unit) WITH a hotwire kit. Order today, I know I need this.
3. GOOD/visible boost guage(the stocker can be as much as 5lbs off!) I have this.
3.Turbo Tweak Chip(or any reputable modern tunable chip) Dont have
4. 60lb injectors(and I think the 80s are plug and play now, get at least 60s)
5. RJC power plate dont have
6. A boost controller of some sort(I use the RJC unit, some people dont like them)." Have this not sure of the brand, I will get a picture.
 
I really want to know what was wrong with the BGC downpipes? I have had one on my car for like 10-12 years with no problems. Not trying to hijack the thread.
 
Yup, I see mistakes! If you're looking for a shopping list here ya go:

1.Scanmaster (DO NOT do ANYTHING else to the car until you have one).
2.Good fuel Pump (Walbro, or Denso Supra unit) WITH a hotwire kit.
3. GOOD/visible boost guage(the stocker can be as much as 5lbs off!)
3.Turbo Tweak Chip(or any reputable modern tunable chip)
4. 60lb injectors(and I think the 80s are plug and play now, get at least 60s)
5. RJC power plate
6. A boost controller of some sort(I use the RJC unit, some people dont like them).

If you have the money, I would do all of these mods at one time.

SERIOUSLY DO NOT BUY ANYTHING ELSE BEFORE YOU HAVE EVERYTHING ON THE LIST ABOVE!!!!!!

My honest opinion is that these cars are 100% easier to tune with a wideband O2 sensor... So it would also be a great addition.

The mods above WILL get you into the 12s on drag radials and pump gas IF you spend the time tuning your car. This is the ONLY first step... there is no skipping what I've listed above.

Either listen, or dont bother posting here any more because we cant help you unless you have everything I mentioned above... You WILL DESTROY your car unless you have the above mentioned items. I am not trying to be a jerk here, I just want you to understand how important those parts are.

Past after that:
1. Hooker or pypes exhaust with a high flow or gutted cat
2. A 3in down pipe, or port your exhaust elbow(this is subject to debate)
3. upgraded turbo(unless your stocker is healthy)
4. better converter(this can make up to a .5 second difference on your ET).
** You will NEED a secondary transcooler if you install the converter, you may also want to consider a mild trans build at the same time**
5. An Alcohol Injection kit(Julio/Razors is currently the best with awesome tech support)
6. Intercooler upgrade(if you do ALKY I would not bother with a front mount, stock location will be more than enough).

At this point you will be where you want to be, but without the first steps, proper tuning, and lots of research you will never get there.

I feel like I need to add a disclaimer that I am trying to keep you from wasting your time and money, I learned the hard way as many others on this forum have, and you will too if you dont listen to us. Im not trying to come off as a jerk, I just want you to do things the right way and not the hard way. If I was a Jerk I would not have taken 15min out of my day to list exactly what you need, and Im sure others will chime in to help you out.




Good start..........:)

All of this is good info.





.
 
One thing I do know when information is not shared equally someone (Me) will be at the mercy of (You). Are the BGC elbows ok? I just havent seen many buicks with them on them these days. But hell I dont see any other buicks up here!!!

LOL pretty honest and funny.

The elbows are old school, rare but they do tuck under a stock sheild without cutting, on the market they are worth more then 20 bucks so I owe you an honest reply.

If it were me I would sell the driveway full of crapola and use the funds to build up your motor with addonz...you can pull a few bucks out of them 4.1 blocks depending on shape.

Anyway Id sure like to have first dibs on that elbow when and if you decide to flip it so keep me in mind.

PS read read read read and do some more reading, in fact make up a folder on your desk top, find everything you can about different aspects of tuning

for instance...IAC and TPS setting.... copy/paste to note pad and save.. that way you wont have to jump in here and wait for a reply... it helps to get organized with troublshooting and tuning info and save it all on word... also have the option to print it all out and save in car.
 
I really want to know what was wrong with the BGC downpipes? I have had one on my car for like 10-12 years with no problems. Not trying to hijack the thread.

Nothing, Please note when poster wonders if part is crap and some one chimes in and agrees that part is crap then turns around and offers money for said crap part.... well:D
 
I will

LOL pretty honest and funny.

The elbows are old school, rare but they do tuck under a stock sheild without cutting, on the market they are worth more then 20 bucks so I owe you an honest reply.

If it were me I would sell the driveway full of crapola and use the funds to build up your motor with addonz...you can pull a few bucks out of them 4.1 blocks depending on shape.

Anyway Id sure like to have first dibs on that elbow when and if you decide to flip it so keep me in mind.

PS read read read read and do some more reading, in fact make up a folder on your desk top, find everything you can about different aspects of tuning

for instance...IAC and TPS setting.... copy/paste to note pad and save.. that way you wont have to jump in here and wait for a reply... it helps to get organized with troublshooting and tuning info and save it all on word... also have the option to print it all out and save in car.

I will keep you on the list for the elbow. I like those terry houston types. And thanks for the honesty.
 
I'm gonna have to agree with most of the stuff these guys have told you. You need to slow down and get back to the basics. Personally, I'd take and sell as much stuff as I could (That I wasn't going to be using) - to help fund the project.

Next, I think I'd try to get the car back to stock levels to make sure everything is working optimally. (You need scan tools)... Not sure if the add- on's will help you right now. You can build a healthy 3.8 and use simple basic stuff and not break the bank. (10's will be more expensive than $5k)..

Let's shoot for 13's first, then 12's etc.. I know you are enthusiastic but there are many of us here who have learned the hard way (ie: the EXPENSIVE way). Take your time and learn the car. I guarantee that you will be much happier with your results...

Good Luck
 
Haha I completely forgot to change it. My parents still live down there. I've been in Denton for 3 years now. MUCH better air up here... Now I just need to finish this darn car so I can enjoy the good air.

Well I'm in Hillsnowhere if you need help. It's a short Texas drive after all. lol


tobuyitright
Please remember that these cars can be tempermental to say the least so get the basics down before you try to go fast. Some where on here is a thread from a newby that I'm sure ALL of us know about. He decided what he was going to do and with a brand new engine built to "go fast" it lasted less than a day because he decided the old guys on here didn't know what we were talking about. He's still here and I think he's begining to understand why things didn't work out for him. Hopefully he will listen to some of us when he gets the new "new" engine together. Time will tell though.:rolleyes:
 
a couple other things besides what was mentioned that i like to do is start with a fresh fuel filter and a new set of plugs gapped for the kind of boost you are gonna run. i personally use ac delco plugs r42ts gapped @.028 .
another important thing that i have experienced on EVERY one of theses cars is cracked exhaust manifolds that lets boost out and oxygen in. especially check the driverside where #3 &#5 meet up they are almost always cracked there. not a big deal just need a professional welder to weld them. i also experienced a few passenger cracked ones as well.
 
He my car ran 13.0 the very first pass, and after about ten passes got it down to 12.40 and the only thing done to mine is a TA-49 turbo, 50 injectors, FMIC, hotwire kit, voltage booster, scanmaster, still have stock intercooler, MT Drag radials, 3000 converter, and i know there is definitley some 11's in it with some tuning, because that was with barely any tuning.
 
I have a question. He said he has a "halltec fuel management system" Is this a standalone or an add on kind of thing? I ask because if it’s a standalone will the scan master work with it. I wouldn’t want to see him buying parts that wont work.
Good luck tobuyright the learning curve is steep but not too bad.
Take it slow learn the car don’t let it detonate and read every thing you can. Its all here ;)
 
I forgot also have a walboro 340 fuel pump. I did run race gas thought you do need some sort of tuning tool thought like the scanmaster or something because you dont want any knock.
 
Yes need to know

I have a question. He said he has a "halltec fuel management system" Is this a standalone or an add on kind of thing? I ask because if it’s a standalone will the scan master work with it. I wouldn’t want to see him buying parts that wont work.
Good luck tobuyright the learning curve is steep but not too bad.
Take it slow learn the car don’t let it detonate and read every thing you can. Its all here ;)

I am wondering the same thing, That is why a may have to plunge into a newer xfi, I dont have the parts to go back stock. And I know that the system does not work using the sensor directly under the TB. May be other as well, need to look into it.
 
After looking at Haltech's sight it seems to be a standalone system. Not 100% but that’s all I could find on there. Find the ecu for it and id it, and then look it up on there sight. If you get Xfi there are some great tuners on here that will guide you the right way.
 
OK. Heres some realistic basic needed stuff that will make a 3600+lb TR run reliably in the high tens at 24psi +or-1. No overkill $1k+ turbos or unneeded BS. It could be done with less or more or slightly different parts.

Solid car with good poly or solid rear bushings.
Trans freshening with some decent soft parts and a servo $1500+
Wideband tuning device start at $300 and go up form there
Open exhaust(free) or 2.5-3" single exhaust $300 and up
2.5" or 3" radiused turn DP $300 mild $500 stainless
Fuel system mods including injectors $400
Adjustable chip for 110 octane $85
TE62 turbo $750
PTC 10" 2800 stall $500
ported heads and intake $1500
Precision intercooler stock location or front mount $750-900
Open air cleaner $50
Remove a screen from the stock MAF free
10 gallons of 110 octane $100
Tall drag slicks. I rec 28.5x9 Phoenix $275
Other gaskets/hoses and small parts i probably left out $500

Add that up (about $7k) and plan on at least that and a good tune at 11.0:1 a/f and 25-26 degrees advance at WOT on a prepped track.

Fwiw i took a stock140k engine and bolted on a bunch of similar parts and went 10.88@126 with 23-24psi in a 3 day time span. All stuff i had on the shelf or car from previous builds except gaskets and seals.
Here it is:

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/general-turbo-buick-tech/224951-guess-what-i-ran-et-mph.html
Here are the critical parts i used:
Innovate LM1
TT adjustable chip
ported heads/intake
212 cam .497 total lift
g body front mount
3 bolt T72 turbo 76 trim exhaust .85 a/r ex
3.5" DP
open exhaust
trans by me with billet internals
Old AC 2800 NL 9"
10 gallons of 110 gas
28.5x9 slick

10-15hrs of time working on engine and car and one day of street driving then re-torqued and dialed it in on the way to LVD. Booted after first pass for no cage. Though not critical i had a do it yourself alky on the car that supplied about 10% of the total needed WOT fuel. This was a very lean tune with only about 22-23 degrees advance in 3rd from what i remember. Id stay at 11.0:1 to be safer.

The part that most have the most have the most difficulty with is the dial in part. Wideband and adjustable chip makes it very easy. Forget narrow band readings off a scanmaster. You could be a fat pig or on the edge. No need for that when you can have a wideband for $300-400. A few WOT bursts through 3rd and it was all dialed in, No guessing. This is not my wet dream or coulda woulda should BS. Its proven. It logged a bunch of WOT time on the street at that power level or much more.
 
Have you ever heard the saying crawl, walk, then run.

While the XFI is a great system it is also the deep end of the pool. If you can't get what you have in the high tens low low 11s. You do not need it.
If you think you are having trouble now. Go ahead and get one.:confused:

After you get it sorted out you can make that desision.

Oh, and listen to the "Bison" above. Real world #s and info. He will get ya there.
 
This is what Im thinking, tell me if this is a mistake: Turbo (Undecided but BB ), Front mount intercooler, new downpipe, injectors, 340 pump.

BB not needed. If you were thinking of wasting $ on one of those id consider a PTC 9.5" instead and buy an old journal 6776e. Its plenty to get it done and the better converter will 60' better and couple better up top. Unless you can get a BB for under $1k.
 
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