machine work required to run a roller cam...

[Drewster]

i would like to install a roller cam in a 109 block build. this would be my first and need to know more about it.
what machine work needs to be done? do i have to machine for a roller thrust bearing? what machine work needs to be done to the heads? have to run roller rockers?
any other instructional treads out there? recomendations and suggestions welcome.
andrew

 

[Slow91z]

My cam went in with no machining required...Just use the aftermarket cam button and shims to set the end play and that's it.

Also it will require stiffer valve springs and if you have stock unported heads then the odds are you will need to have the exhaust guide cut down to the size of the intake guide, but most ported heads (professionally ported heads) already have this done.

If roller rockers are in your budget they are certainly nice to have, makes getting the right pushrod easier, but you can use stock rockers.

 

[turbofabricator]

Buy a kit from Full THrottle and install it. You MUST use either hardened rocker shafts (from TA Performance) or roller rockers. The end rockers will eventually break off at high RPM if using stock rocker shafts. You can also help the stock shafts by using RJC shaft girdles. It'll help, but I hightly suggest roller rockers and corresponding valve covers.
As stated above, the austemper hydraulic roller cam is a direct swap with no machining needed, except for the exhaust guides should be cut down for seals and stainless valves. If you need to add additional retainer to guide clearance with stock exhaust valves, you can only cut them about .050" or the oil control groove on the stock exhaust valve will no longer function and will start smoking. (and we all know that smoking is bad for you) With the engine pulled apart, either purchase ported iron heads, or do the work yourself. Have the valves replaced with stainless steel valves. Cut the exhaust guides down and use Viton seals.

 

[LOT]

what machine work needs to be done to the heads?

If using roller rocker---You need to machine or grind the pedestals so the rockers will clear.

 

[lonniesmith]

3.625 stroker install

i need a little help guys i installed 3.625 stroker kit in my 109 block it came with je pistons scat rods and ta crank win i turn the engine over the rods hit the cam what am i doing wrong r whats the cure for this the timing is at 0

 

[TurboDave]

i need a little help guys i installed 3.625 stroker kit in my 109 block it came with je pistons scat rods and ta crank win i turn the engine over the rods hit the cam what am i doing wrong r whats the cure for this the timing is at 0

You might at least want to start your own post instead of hi-jacking this one. Your problem is not cam related. There's plenty of machining that has to be done to run a 3625 crank in a 109 block. It's NOT a drop in deal.

 

[LOT]

rod to cam problem

i need a little help guys i installed 3.625 stroker kit in my 109 block it came with je pistons scat rods and ta crank win i turn the engine over the rods hit the cam what am i doing wrong r whats the cure for this the timing is at 0

You're not doing anything wrong--the cure is to remove the rods and grind or machine the cam side down to clear the cam lobes. Different cam won't solve the problem. I don't understand why the seller of these kits don't STROKE the rods. Or @ least tell you that with a 3.625 stroke crank that the rods will hit. I beileve that there are only 2-3 that will hit (2-4 and maybe 5). I just grind the one hitting untill I have .060 clearance--use it as a pattern and have my friend mill all of them the same. Best of luck.

 

[turbofabricator]

i need a little help guys i installed 3.625 stroker kit in my 109 block it came with je pistons scat rods and ta crank win i turn the engine over the rods hit the cam what am i doing wrong r whats the cure for this the timing is at 0

I have not had any issues using K1 rods. Never tried the Scat rods. Might want to send them back and get K1 instead.

I've had issues with Cunningham rod bolt threads hitting the cam lobes with a .650+ lift cam. Just had to grind the rod bolts down to miss the cam. Make sure you grind enough to give you atleast .125" clearance but shoot for .160" or more. If you grind the rod bolts down, it'll probably need re-balancing.

Also be sure you have your cam degreed properly BEFORE you check cam to rod clearance. If you are running a billet cam, make SURE it is a cam that matches your head port configuration. I had a friend build a hot 109 and the cam manufacturer sent him a StageII cam. Boy, did that thing run funny. (actually it didn't run at all, just popped and back fired.)

 

[Nick Micale]

....--the cure is to remove the rods and grind or machine the cam side down to clear the cam lobes. Different cam won't solve the problem. I don't understand why the seller of these kits don't STROKE the........

Another way that we have found that also works if there is major grinding/clearancing on the rods, especially if they have been balanced, is to use a small base circle cam.

When doing a new build on most stroker engines, we will specify a small base circle cam when it is ordered to help eliminate interference.

 

[Drewster]

champion irons and roller cam

Getting back to the roller cam reqired machining....
thanks for the specific info on head machining and other tips.

Do the champion ported irons need machining to run a astemper roller?
I would like to do as much bolt on as possible.

any machining for ....210/215 revolution comp cam roller, champion irons, 1.55 roller rockers?

Andrew

 

[turbofabricator]

Not sure if Champion grinds the pedistals for clearance. Look the the rocker ped's for evidence of machining. If it is all cast looking, then you will need to grind/machine the sides down about 1" and .150" deep. Lay the rockers on to see the interference.

 

[m233roller]

Ken, I sent him a nice pic. of Champion heads with the pedastals ground. If I remember right the very early Champion iron heads did not have this done.

 

[Drewster]

Thanks

Thank you for the help, detailed notes and pics.

 

[Eric Stauch]

Buy a kit from Full THrottle and install it. You MUST use either hardened rocker shafts (from TA Performance) or roller rockers. The end rockers will eventually break off at high RPM if using stock rocker shafts. You can also help the stock shafts by using RJC shaft girdles. It'll help, but I hightly suggest roller rockers and corresponding valve covers.
As stated above, the austemper hydraulic roller cam is a direct swap with no machining needed, except for the exhaust guides should be cut down for seals and stainless valves. If you need to add additional retainer to guide clearance with stock exhaust valves, you can only cut them about .050" or the oil control groove on the stock exhaust valve will no longer function and will start smoking. (and we all know that smoking is bad for you) With the engine pulled apart, either purchase ported iron heads, or do the work yourself. Have the valves replaced with stainless steel valves. Cut the exhaust guides down and use Viton seals.

I did NOT buy hardened rocker shafts or roller rockers or RJC shaft girdles when i put my comp roller in. I was doing a rebuild and while the heads were apart I did machine the exhaust guides down, but im not sure if thats even a must, it may depend on how much lift your running. not sure could be wrong there. I did not go with stainless valves either. I dont believe any of that is 100% requiered execept the exhaust guides. Mine has well over 30k miles and countless number of times been over 6000+RPM all on stock stuff execpt comp roller cam kit. Eric.

 

[turbofabricator]

How much did you machine the ex. guides down? Did you use a seal? The reason I ask, is the stock exhaust valve has groove machined into it and a seal will NOT seal against it. YOu are alos lucky with your rocker shafts. Glad it works for you. There are always exception in everything we do. Yes, there is bare min. retainer to ex. guide clearance with .517" lift. BUT if the heads are off, might as well improve that. (which you did.)

 

[Eric Stauch]

Yes I used the good stem seals and I believe I cut .100 off? Don't hold me to that I would have to check my notes to be sure.