OEM Replacement Pump Recommendations

[Sorta05]

87 T-type that is bone stock and low miles. This will be it’s fourth pump (it’s still working but doesn’t hold rail pressure after you cut if off (no hot start) and rail pressure is a few psi low while running). I’ve seen the 255lph racetronix pump recommended here but based on the descriptions I’ve seen it requires an additional harness. Preference would be to stay as OEM as possible. With that in mind what’s the best/most dependable OEM style pump available today?

AI seems to think the newer GM EP386 pump might be a better option, is that a good choice, will it be plug and play?

Thank you all for your help!

Cheers,
Sorta

 

[Chuck Leeper]

This will be it’s fourth pump

Maybe find out why it's eating pumps before throwing another one into the mix.
Low voltage will kill a pump as well as make a functioning pump run at low psi.
40 yo wiring is also suspect.
Volt drop tests are needed.
In tank leaks are another issue.

 

[joed]

Check regulator also

 

[Sorta05]

Maybe find out why it's eating pumps before throwing another one into the mix.
Low voltage will kill a pump as well as make a functioning pump run at low psi.
40 yo wiring is also suspect.
Volt drop tests are needed.
In tank leaks are another issue.

Thank you Chuck! Should be easy enough to check the voltage while we are in there. What voltage would be within spec at the pump with no hot wire kit (I mean 12.XV but I would expect something less then what is at the battery/alternator)?

What do you mean by in tank leaks? Clearly the check valve on this one is no longer working. My understanding is that, it’s built into the pump. Is there anything else we should be on the look out for?

 

[Sorta05]

Check regulator also

Thank you Joed! We started with that, and now have a very ugly ACDELCO unit, with no change in behavior.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Thank you Chuck! Should be easy enough to check the voltage while we are in there. What voltage would be within spec at the pump with no hot wire kit (I mean 12.XV but I would expect something less then what is at the battery/alternator)?

What do you mean by in tank leaks? Clearly the check valve on this one is no longer working. My understanding is that, it’s built into the pump. Is there anything else we should be on the look out for?

The pumps are rated at 13.5VDC. More than 1/2 V drop could be an indicator of wiring/connector issues.
ALL TR's need a hot wire kit! Check the alt output.

 

[Sorta05]

The pumps are rated at 13.5VDC. More than 1/2 V drop could be an indicator of wiring/connector issues.
ALL TR's need a hot wire kit! Check the alt output.

Thank you Chuck!

 

[BEATAV8]

Difficult hot start indicates the injectors are leaking fuel into the intake manifold.
Leaked fuel in the manifold makes the engine rich during hot cranking and that makes it not want to start.
Probably fires up super quick when it’s cold though.

 

[dynoman]

Like Chuck said , you need a hotwire kit . You could check the voltage at the pump and it could read battery voltage , but under load with a poor connections the voltage will drop and so will the pump performance .

 

[dynoman]

When you say bone stock , do you mean the stock chip ? If so get a Turbo Tweak chip which is made for todays fuels . Also maybe pull injectors and have them cleaned .

 

[THensley]

it would be a really nice to own a 40 year old 100% stock turbo Buick that ran like it did in 87.
Low volts to pump will kill it
Leaking injectors will lose fuel pressure and hard start
if you would like to drive it 1000 miles a year its time to get a TT chip and injectors at the same time get a pump and Hotwire from Eric he sells top shelf.
Inspect the pump hanger plug and wires, these are subject to corrosion and can be a cause for low voltage too.
Check all grounds ,Battery to engine battery to body,,engine to body, the big wade of grounds on the passenger cylinder ,cylinder head to firewall tank ground close to the bumper.
I would hope to see 13+ volts at the plug at the back bumper engine running.
Its not miles that effect these cars as much as its time.
At 44 years old you're not running the 100 yard dash in 10 sec. and if you are it's because of good maintenance and some upgrades.

 

[HotAirWH1]

This

I'm the original owner of my TR. It's a low milage car. I love this car and was stubborn on making any mods to it. I began collecting spare parts for the car around 2018 for just in case when I needed em later as the car ages. The car always ran fine. My upgrades started when I was having trouble with the MAF in 2018. Try finding a NOS MAF for a 85 T Type. I have a couple now, but they are pricey. They set on a shelf for a day when I want to put the car back to bone stock along with all the other OE parts I've switch out for the mild modifications I have done (see my signature). From experience, this car is running by far the best it ever has and I'm enjoying it more. Believe me when I say I know how you feel about a unmolested TR and your desire to keep it that way. As THensley stated " Its not miles that effect these cars as much as its time ".

 

[Mr.Spool]

This
Wi

Maybe find out why it's eating pumps before throwing another one into the mix.

This ^^^
On the low mileage stuff if seen rust inside the fuel lines and rails that take out the pump and injectors.
Get the fuel system flowed
Look at the fuel
Clean injectors
Check voltage and wire continuity etc.

 

[Sorta05]

Thank you everyone for all the feedback!

She is bone stock with the exception of a K&N filter. 50k miles. 1 owner car.

Siphoned fuel from the tank it came out clean. The tank was down 5 years ago for a new pump and I’m not aware of any rust/contamination problems found while it was being done.

We have tired our best to run only 93 non ethanol, but there was E10 in the last tank that we just siphoned out.

Would leaking injectors show other symptoms like black smoke on start up or idle? Any way to test for injectors leaking on the car, other then fuel pressure check at the rail? Is there a way to isolate the problem to the fuel pump check valve or the injectors (assuming it’s not both)? Seems like the injectors would have to be leaking a lot to lose 2-3 psi at the rail.

Getting the injectors flow tested and cleaned is on the list. Just have to convince my Dad it’s worth it.

Thank you again for all the great feedback!
Sorta

 

[Sorta05]

it would be a really nice to own a 40 year old 100% stock turbo Buick that ran like it did in 87.
Low volts to pump will kill it
Leaking injectors will lose fuel pressure and hard start
if you would like to drive it 1000 miles a year its time to get a TT chip and injectors at the same time get a pump and Hotwire from Eric he sells top shelf.
Inspect the pump hanger plug and wires, these are subject to corrosion and can be a cause for low voltage too.
Check all grounds ,Battery to engine battery to body,,engine to body, the big wade of grounds on the passenger cylinder ,cylinder head to firewall tank ground close to the bumper.
I would hope to see 13+ volts at the plug at the back bumper engine running.
Its not miles that effect these cars as much as its time.
At 44 years old you're not running the 100 yard dash in 10 sec. and if you are it's because of good maintenance and some upgrades.

Unfortunately, neither I or my Dad are really dialed into the community, could you please share with me Eric’s contact info or website?

Thank you for your help!
Regards,
Sorta