Most reliable roller cam setup.

[Ttype6]

The billet cams are stronger,of course. The cast roller will do everything you want. The most important thing is to have enough spring pressure to make sure the lifter never moves away from the cam lobe. If the lifter is allowed to bounce,the resulting reunion will chip away at the lobe. The billet cam is more tolerant of this situation. Remember that if your setup is fine at 5,800,the lifter might bounce when you hit 6,000. Make sure you have enough spring to survive severe tire spin or over revving from a no shift condition.

 

[Wahoo]

The billet cams are stronger,of course. The cast roller will do everything you want. The most important thing is to have enough spring pressure to make sure the lifter never moves away from the cam lobe. If the lifter is allowed to bounce,the resulting reunion will chip away at the lobe. The billet cam is more tolerant of this situation. Remember that if your setup is fine at 5,800,the lifter might bounce when you hit 6,000. Make sure you have enough spring to survive severe tire spin or over revving from a no shift condition.

What springs would you reccommend then?

 

[we4Mateo]

That makes sense. Curious on springs too, but I'm sure it depends on the cam.

 

[MDavis]

Anyone use the roller cam tha full throttle offers?

 

[MDavis]

The billet cams are stronger,of course. The cast roller will do everything you want. The most important thing is to have enough spring pressure to make sure the lifter never moves away from the cam lobe. If the lifter is allowed to bounce,the resulting reunion will chip away at the lobe. The billet cam is more tolerant of this situation. Remember that if your setup is fine at 5,800,the lifter might bounce when you hit 6,000. Make sure you have enough spring to survive severe tire spin or over revving from a no shift condition.

I think this is exactly what happened to me always has a rattle at high rpm. Needless to say motor blown and rebuilt. Now I know what to look for.

 

[pacecarta]

[

 

[MDavis]

thats whats in my cars, comp cams does the grinds
86 ...215/220 XLR with behives
my x ...212/212
the TTop is getting the 218/212
and my project 69 TA is getting the 206/210 XLR

How are the beehives? I've seen mixed reviews.

 

[earlbrown]

I don't recall any legitimate negative views about the beehives.

 

[Jay J]

Re: Full Throttle DI roller Cams, I have them in both cars. Used the "clicky comp" lifters until the Morells became available. Did not put roller rockers in the wife's T, but did go with the TA Perf. heavy shafts and RJC rocker shaft supports. Have not had any issues. Beehives in the GN without a problem for 5 years...

 

[TurboTdr3.8]

I am in no flaming war with no ones opinion about springs but my experience with beehives have been a very bad experience from the get go , I now use double springs and very happy with the results I am getting . Just my 2 cents

 

[larrym]

my experience is with PAC springs they have performed well for me and I even reused the stock locks and retainers.

 

[TurboBob]

i'm going to vote the other way. Go old-school on the lobes, with less radical acceleration, use more moderate springs.

My "baby roller" was 204/204, I ran it from 2005 until last year, no issues.

I wanted something a little bigger for this latest build, so I got one of Bison's old experimental grinds, the "mellow roller", its 212/212. I'm running moderate springs and expect it will last until I get tired of it.....

Yes you give up a little power over the aggressive stuff, but for a street car..........

Bob

 

[earlbrown]

^What Bob said. It really helps that turbo cars aren't as cam sensitive as a hot N/A build. I'll give up a miniscule amount of HP, to have a car that's turn key, any day of the week.

 

[Tony N]

I use the Full Throttle RevX roller cam set 206/210 with Morell roller lifters and stock rockers. Cam has good idle and good mid and top end pull.

 

[BEATAV8]

The PAC 1201 and 1201X springs are tough to beat

 

[we4Mateo]

^What Bob said. It really helps that turbo cars aren't as cam sensitive as a hot N/A build. I'll give up a miniscule amount of HP, to have a car that's turn key, any day of the week.

That's what I want too and have now, so I don't want to go backwards with reliability.

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[JP112_89]

That's what I want too and have now, so I don't want to go backwards with reliability.

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You will not be going backwards if you install a roller cam.
Id listen to Paul and go with his recommendation. Order from Full Throttle...the 206/210 sounds good and use either Beehives or PAC 1201.

Power comes from the heads. Get the intake port matched. Concentrate on port work....and torque converter.

Joe

 

[MDavis]

i'm going to vote the other way. Go old-school on the lobes, with less radical acceleration, use more moderate springs.

My "baby roller" was 204/204, I ran it from 2005 until last year, no issues.

I wanted something a little bigger for this latest build, so I got one of Bison's old experimental grinds, the "mellow roller", its 212/212. I'm running moderate springs and expect it will last until I get tired of it.....

Yes you give up a little power over the aggressive stuff, but for a street car..........

Bob

By that do you mean you are running a flat tappet cam?

If not, is there anyone running one? 208/208 to be specific?

 

[Quik Six]

I run a DLS spec'd 218/218 CC roller and had beehive springs installed last spring. Morel lifters and roller rockers.

Works well with my turbo and TC combo.

 

[we4Mateo]

By that do you mean you are running a flat tappet cam?

If not, is there anyone running one? 208/208 to be specific?

I run a 208/208 erson ft cam right now with lazy lobes and 75lb springs. It works great even at 30psi, but I only spin 5k now but will spin more with the new setup. With very little port matching of the intake to the heads and this cam, I picked up 40hp to the wheels all else equal.

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