Motion Raceworks 2 Stage Air/Oil Separator?

[OKTurbo]

Just posted a YouTube video showing the Pcv upgrades I made.

 

[Pronto]

Looks like it should work good. If you can find straight M1, I would run that rather than the orange low temp windshield washer fluid.

 

[OKTurbo]

Looks like it should work good. If you can find straight M1, I would run that rather than the orange low temp windshield washer fluid.

It’s actually Snow Performance Boost Juice….a step above washer fluid, but not by much. it’s mostly a street car and I don’t like a plastic jug of straight methanol under the hood when I’m just cruising around. The 50/50 mix is still good for detonation control. I do add a yellow container of ‘heet’ from time to time.

 

[Pronto]

Years ago my fuel pump popped the fuse right as I started to get into boost. I ran on alky only for about 2 seconds. It was enough to hurt a head gasket. Took all summer for it finally show it was toast but if it was less that straight M1 it would have blown right there. That's one reason I run straight M1.

 

[OKTurbo]

The PCV upgrades seemed to have fixed the high idle BLM issue. Still need to put some more miles on it before I know for sure.

Here’s a few pics after I cleaned up the driver’s side valve cover connection. Both valve covers are teed together before the catch can, then connected to the MAF pipe.

 

[1984 t-type]

Guys, your over thinking. Don't reinvent what they already laid out for you. The top of the Can says VAC (this should go to your PCV) and the other says Crank (this should go to either side of your valve cover, preferably the passenger side on a Turbo Buick). The final hose will go from your drivers side valve cover to the turbo inlet pipe.

So just want to make sure I got this right. I have a gen 6 Mighty Mouse catch can I will be installing which is basically the same as the motion raceworks dual stage can. Based off the pic you posted I just run the drivers side valve cover to the cold air tube (I’m MAFless) run the pass side valve cover to the catch can crank, and the catch can vac to the factory Pcv valve location minus the Pcv valve since the new cans have it built in (or any other intake vacuum source) and job done. No other valve cover breathers needed ?

 

[OKTurbo]

So just want to make sure I got this right. I have a gen 6 Mighty Mouse catch can I will be installing which is basically the same as the motion raceworks dual stage can. Based off the pic you posted I just run the drivers side valve cover to the cold air tube (I’m MAFless) run the pass side valve cover to the catch can crank, and the catch can vac to the factory Pcv valve location minus the Pcv valve since the new cans have it built in (or any other intake vacuum source) and job done. No other valve cover breathers needed ?

Yes. That should do it. I'm not familar with the Mighty Mouse can, but the Motion can is "active" in that when under boost, the check valve closes on the vacuum source (now under pressure) and the vent will still vent the valve covers if blowby builds up pressure in the crankcase.

Just make sure you're mighty mouse catch can will still vent under boost. The rest looks good. You'll have good positive crankcase ventilation under normal driving and the makeup air into the valve covers is filtered from your cold air pipe.

I'm still using the stock pcv valve so I know it has the "correct" orifice for venting the crankcase.

 

[OKTurbo]

I've simplified my setup since I first posted this. Here is an explanation of what I used and why. My car is street driven, so I wanted a good PCV system to keep the oil from getting contaminated yet still vent things properly under boost. My stock setup with the valve cover breathers was giving me a high idle BLM (computer adding fuel) since the valve covers were letting in un-metered air...making the computer think it's lean at idle.

This setup lets clean / metered air flow back into the valve covers to make up the air being drawn out of the crack case by the pcv valve during "normal" driving. Under boost condition it still vents the crankcase but through a catch can and another catch can keeps oil mist from getting into the intake from the valve covers.

2 catch cans used. The 2-stage active can for the PCV and a "universal" can for the fresh air make-up side of the system.

These are the major parts that I used. The rest are AN fittings and hose to plumb it a up.

ME Wagner Dual Flow adjustable PCV Valve
Dual Flow® Adjustable PCV Valve – M/E Wagner Performance Products
With VP2 Valley Pan adapter
Dual Flow® PCV Valve – Adaptor Accessories – M/E Wagner Performance Products

Motion Raceworks Active 2 Stage Catch Can
Active 2 Stage Oil Separator / Oil Catch Can – Motion Raceworks

Trick Flow fitting for factory breather on passenger valve cover.
Trick Flow Specialties TFS-51400861 Trick Flow® Oil Vapor Line Limiting Breather Fittings | Trick Flow Specialties

Universal Oil Catch can from Amazon
Amazon.com: EVIL ENERGY Oil Catch Can, 300ML Baffled Catch Can Kit, Universal Aluminum Air Oil Separator Tank with 5/8" ID NBR Fuel Hose 5FT : Automotive

Driver’s side valve cover breather adapter from Full Throttle Speed.
-10 AN Valve Cover Breather Adapter, Grand National & T-Type – Full Throttle Speed

Weld on 10AN fitting for MAF pipe.
Amazon.com: Podavelle 10AN Male Flare Weld On Fitting Bung Adapter for Fuel Oil Hose Tank Aluminum, Pack of 2 : Automotive

 

[jmendlik]

can you show picture of the dual flow PCV and valley adapter installed in intake area?

 

[1984 t-type]

I am currently searching for something similar to the valley pan adapter that will give me a 6an or 8an fitting on the other end so I can run it to my catch can. Anyone came across something like that ?

 

[OKTurbo]

Here are some pics of my setup.