Motor won't rev over 5200-5300rpm... WTF???
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I was a tad concerned about the lift with this cam because it seems like alot more than most hyd rollers are running... .548 with 1.55's and .584 with 1.65's.
It sure sounds like a plausible idea... just one that's really hard to swallow.
I was a tad concerned about the lift with this cam because it seems like alot more than most hyd rollers are running... .548 with 1.55's and .584 with 1.65's.
It sure sounds like a plausible idea... just one that's really hard to swallow.
There are TSM builds that had these springs that were shifting at 6400. One particular one went 139+mph several times on them. That car needed a converter bad since it was at over 6200 in 3rd with a 28" slick.
Well... I have no problem tossing another set of springs on the car... or even putting some shims under the ones I have...
I was impressed at how well those beehives work for being a single coil spring.
I 'kinda figured TA Performance would know what springs would/wouldn't work when they built these heads...
I'm not ready to throw anyone under the bus yet... I'll wait till later this week and see what Chuck has to say about my injectors. :wink:
KL Mallender
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A 320-350 lb/in spring used to be adequate with "flat tappet" hydralics and mechanicals using .500 lift as a maximum, 425-470+ lb/in spring would be considered mild for anything approaching .575 lift using same valvetrain mass,
Don't be surprised if you find you need a spring with 175 psi seat and 450+open to control your .584 "stick".
WHATEVER you do, DON"T lean out the A/F mixture now and then change springs and go out and "hammer it", the result will be very bad for engine.
Valve float will make your engine data "look" like it's running rich and late on timing as rpm climbs, EGT's also will climb as you enter float, respectfully..you have been warned. Good Luck.
Kevin.
Don't be surprised if you find you need a spring with 175 psi seat and 450+open to control your .584 "stick".
WHATEVER you do, DON"T lean out the A/F mixture now and then change springs and go out and "hammer it", the result will be very bad for engine.
Valve float will make your engine data "look" like it's running rich and late on timing as rpm climbs, EGT's also will climb as you enter float, respectfully..you have been warned. Good Luck.
Kevin.
DailyDrifter
The Slow and the Curious
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- 5,118
I 'kinda figured TA Performance would know what springs would/wouldn't work when they built these heads...
When my engine was built I thought that people knew what they were doing as well, I spent today taking the engine out of the car
. I also assumed that a company near your neck of the woods would steer me in the right direction with my cam choice, turns out "they didnt sell that many" and it was the wrong cam for my converter and engine to begin with. They also replaced the brand new springs they provided me in the cam kit because they were'nt the right ones to begine with. And my car still wouldnt rev over 4200 rpm's, even after the springs were changed. Bottom line, NEVER assume that things are OK just because someone says they are.OK, if we conclude that the valvesprings are inadequate... What valvespring SHOULD be on this motor ?
How much spring will a hyd roller tolerate ?
I ran this cam before, but the difference was I used the stock 1.55 rockers and a set of behive springs. The old combo would easily zing beyond 6000.
I guess what I'm having trouble understanding is, how .040" add'l lift at the valve can make so much difference... (Assuming the springs are correct)
I may pull a couple springs off while the injectors are away getting looked at.
How much spring will a hyd roller tolerate ?
I ran this cam before, but the difference was I used the stock 1.55 rockers and a set of behive springs. The old combo would easily zing beyond 6000.
I guess what I'm having trouble understanding is, how .040" add'l lift at the valve can make so much difference... (Assuming the springs are correct)
I may pull a couple springs off while the injectors are away getting looked at.
I think I figured my issue out
Tested the v-springs in the car with a Moroso tool. Had a few at 100#, 120# and so on. None of them except one was over 160. I should have 200+.
I'd go ahead and test yours if you get a chance for sure.
Which one did you use ?
This one ?
Which one did you use ?
This one ?
Yes. I have stud mounted rockers. Not sure what you have or if it would work with them. That tool did the job nicely for me.
KL Mallender
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It would be in your best interest to contact a trustworthy camshaft manufacture, although they can be a "little" biased if not running their equipment, In recomending a spring for your engine, my concern would be the lifter style you have, if your lifter does not have the heavy duty retainer or allows it to compress more than .020 thousandths it is not suited for extreme revs, a "Hi-Rev" hydralic lifter does not allow for much preload and must be as close to zero lash as possible, if tightened much past zero it will keep valve off seat, Many-Many/Most people not familar with them think they were sold solid lifters because they would not allow the typical 1/2-3/4 turn preload, they are designed with limited plunger travel to prevent retainer "pop-out".
Normal lifters will bleed-down and cause noise issues with anything much more than 160 psi seat pressure. I realise it sounds like a catch-22, because it is
For 6000-6500+ rpm with .584 VL, your probably looking at 175-200 seat and 450+ over the nose.
Kevin.
ps: No, I dont like hyd rollers for racing, for the street (under 5000rpm) they're great, past that, go mechanical, too fast rate of lift for it's mass.
Normal lifters will bleed-down and cause noise issues with anything much more than 160 psi seat pressure. I realise it sounds like a catch-22, because it is
For 6000-6500+ rpm with .584 VL, your probably looking at 175-200 seat and 450+ over the nose.
Kevin.
ps: No, I dont like hyd rollers for racing, for the street (under 5000rpm) they're great, past that, go mechanical, too fast rate of lift for it's mass.
You should have no problem. Here is a pic I just took. I was trying to show the clearance. Not the best picture but you can get the idea.
Oh hell yeah... that will work on mine...
And, after doing some research on TA's website... the springs they put on my heads look like shimmed-up flat tappet springs.
http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_V1125AL
According to the build sheet, they used "TAV1125AL" valve springs on my build.
Here's the specs on those...
I think as long as it clears the adjuster nut, it should work OK on my shaft rockers.
Those springs look wrong to me
. Mine have the blue stripe on them and the set i got from you has the blue stripe. Those are definitely a different part #Those springs look wrong to me
Yeah, they are dual springs, not beehives...
I was looking at comp cams website earlier and the beehive #'s look close to the same as what I have... I think they were 130/310
Here's a link to Comp Cams beehive specs...
http://www.compcams.com/technical/Catalogs/106-07/288-290.pdf
I 'gotta order a Moroso spring checker and see what these are...
I'm still getting the injectors looked at, just to be safe.
These are 130@1.8inch and 318@1.2inch. Beehives are able to keep the valvetrain stable with lower pressures. That was one of the big advantages they marketed when they were released.
