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My last attempt with a flat cam in a Buick V-6

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bison

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Comp Cams H212-212 installed with stock 100k mile springs @ 1.85in installed height, GM EOS, and proper break in. Result number 3 exhaust lifter not spinning:eek: . Anyone who goes with a flat cam other than stock has been warned. Ive done at least 10 flat cam swaps on TR's and have been lucky over the years. Not this time though. Even with the stock springs and tall installed height the 3 exhaust finally got me. Id bet seat pressure was under 60 lbs. GO ROLLER!!!
 
Other than the 3 being the most common, others fail, and many times is due to lifter to bore clearance.
I find that many lifter bores, on many different kinds of engines are not always "up to snuff".
Short of having them bushed, I use the GOODSEN burnishing tool. It sets the bores to exact diameter, and adds a really slick finish.. Something every lifter needs.
Furthermore, I check each lifter for proper rotation B4 I button up the intake. 10 revolutions of the crank best show nearly a full rotate on the lifters...

Works for me.
 
Other than the 3 being the most common, others fail, and many times is due to lifter to bore clearance.
I find that many lifter bores, on many different kinds of engines are not always "up to snuff".
Short of having them bushed, I use the GOODSEN burnishing tool. It sets the bores to exact diameter, and adds a really slick finish.. Something every lifter needs.
Furthermore, I check each lifter for proper rotation B4 I button up the intake. 10 revolutions of the crank best show nearly a full rotate on the lifters...

Works for me.

good info.. thanks
 
Other than the 3 being the most common, others fail, and many times is due to lifter to bore clearance.
I find that many lifter bores, on many different kinds of engines are not always "up to snuff".
Short of having them bushed, I use the GOODSEN burnishing tool. It sets the bores to exact diameter, and adds a really slick finish.. Something every lifter needs.
Furthermore, I check each lifter for proper rotation B4 I button up the intake. 10 revolutions of the crank best show nearly a full rotate on the lifters...

Works for me.

Yeah but the coating finish on the cam sometimes prevents rotation of the lifters until the engine is started and revved a little. Ive always noticed that the #3 exhaust spins slower than the others when compared with the engine running even on a stock cam. The position of that lifter over the cam seems to be the biggest problem that isnt easily corrected. At least i caught it before the cam and lifter wore.
 
What is it with these engines anfd flat tappets? Ive heard all the horror stories and suggestions of going roller. What differs on these from a flat tappet SBC? I know they are 2 different worlds, I've personally built a few flat tappet small block setups, and one buick V6(the one in my car)
 
What is it with these engines anfd flat tappets? Ive heard all the horror stories and suggestions of going roller. What differs on these from a flat tappet SBC? I know they are 2 different worlds, I've personally built a few flat tappet small block setups, and one buick V6(the one in my car)

You have never heard of a SBC or other brands wipe a flat tappet cam? This is a Buick board, so all you hear about is Buicks? We see other brands fail too.:confused:

Like Chuck said, make sure lifter bore is "up to snuff", always use EOS or something similar, and do NOT use synthetic oil [which is the prime cause of failure].:)
 
You have never heard of a SBC or other brands wipe a flat tappet cam? This is a Buick board, so all you hear about is Buicks? We see other brands fail too.:confused:

Like Chuck said, make sure lifter bore is "up to snuff", always use EOS or something similar, and do NOT use synthetic oil [which is the prime cause of failure].:)

Yup ive seen a lot of SBC's chew up cams.
 
flat tappet cams are going flat in every type of engine since the EPA made the oil companies start lowering Zinc levels over the last few years. the new SM rated oils have almost zero zinc- regardless of being synthetic or not- so it's best to search out SL or lower rated oils and/or add either STP or EOS to the oil at every change.
 
flat tappet cams are going flat in every type of engine since the EPA made the oil companies start lowering Zinc levels over the last few years. the new SM rated oils have almost zero zinc- regardless of being synthetic or not- so it's best to search out SL or lower rated oils and/or add either STP or EOS to the oil at every change.

Mine shouldnt have went but then again its the placement of the 3 exhaust that is the real problem on the buick. I always used GM EOS which is loaded with zinc.
 
Is it just the 86-87 109 blocks that seem to have the #3 lifter problem or is it all blocks?? I have a '84 block and am wondering if I'll have the same woes.

Thanks,
Aaron
 
Aaron,

All the blocks I've seen exibit the same problem in regard to the mislocation of the #3 lifter bore some are better and some are worse but its more of a manufacturing tolerance issue at that point.

Neal

Is it just the 86-87 109 blocks that seem to have the #3 lifter problem or is it all blocks?? I have a '84 block and am wondering if I'll have the same woes.

Thanks,
Aaron
 
Is it just the 86-87 109 blocks that seem to have the #3 lifter problem or is it all blocks?? I have a '84 block and am wondering if I'll have the same woes.

Thanks,
Aaron

All Buick even fire 78-89 RWD 3.8 engines. Its not as much of a problem with a low lift stock type cam. Though i replaced a cam in a friends car 2 years ago that had a 3 exhaust going away. Ive seen other stock cams worn also. Its when you throw in a fast ramp higher lift cam that the ills of the factory machining are more apparent.
 
kinda funny...I installed a 212/212 Comp flat tappet with GM lifters, broke it in with 10w30 Valvoline dino oil, ran the snot out of the setup for 2 years and almost 10k miles, just recently pulled everything apart because of my split block and the cam and lifters looked brand new:confused:
 
good to hear that don. every time i read one of these post i get worried but i know zimmerman and nick wont do me wrong.
 
kinda funny...I installed a 212/212 Comp flat tappet with GM lifters, broke it in with 10w30 Valvoline dino oil, ran the snot out of the setup for 2 years and almost 10k miles, just recently pulled everything apart because of my split block and the cam and lifters looked brand new:confused:
Ive done the same in years past with the same cam and lifters and had it live. It would have eaten the lobe this time for sure though. There is no way to guarantee it in one block to another from what ive seen. I split a stocker with that cam about 7 years ago. That one the #3 ex was spinning faster than most ive seen. Car was going 124+mph for a while then the #3 main split and the block had a long crack parallel to the pan rail:eek: . I finally figured out where that damn oil leak was coming from:biggrin: . Yours broke right around where mine did.
 
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