My oil pan

[Turbo6Smackdown]

Ok, I have an RJC girdle under a factory oil pan. About 90% of the studs are, well, studs. But there's a few cap screws, (the 3 on the pointy end of the girdle) and a few rusted plain old iron studs unlike the parkerized allen head studs like the rest of them, with hex flange nuts on them. Is this normal to use 3 cap screws up front, and a few odd studs on the back corner of the RJC girdles?

 

[turbofabricator]

Shouldn't be a problem. I torqued the two through the main cap with washers on them to take up the difference. (Pan bolts not studs). Then finished assembling the engine and when I installed the timing cover I used bolts through that too. (Through girdle). Then when I got around to installing the pan I removed the bolts at each end and reinstalled them through the pan. Lots of sealant used. Make sure you trim the pan gasket for oil return at the back of the block and make sure you cut out any sealant squeeze out into the front and rear oil drain back passages.

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

It may have not been a problem, but is it correct? Is it supposed to be all studs? Isn't one way something can leak uneven pressure?

 

[bison]

Shouldn't be a problem. I torqued the two through the main cap with washers on them to take up the difference. (Pan bolts not studs). Then finished assembling the engine and when I installed the timing cover I used bolts through that too. (Through girdle). Then when I got around to installing the pan I removed the bolts at each end and reinstalled them through the pan. Lots of sealant used. Make sure you trim the pan gasket for oil return at the back of the block and make sure you cut out any sealant squeeze out into the front and rear oil drain back passages.

It doesn't matter. I use bolts in front and they never leak. It it's makes it easier to remove the timing cover because of more room to get a socket on a bolt.


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[Turbo6Smackdown]

Ah, right. Good thinking. You know, those guys were right, Bison does know some things...