My progress thread...

[usetaboost]

Almost got the passenger quarter panel finished. A couple more nights after work and it should be damn close. The stud gun at harbor freight is one of the few tools they make that actually WORK. No, I didn't buy it I will post a few pics after I get it finished. After the quarter panel is finished I'll be starting on the roof.

 

[just plain john]

I was wondering, what's the learning curve on that stud gun?

 

[GNRick]

Just an update. The front clip is pulled. Still gotta swap core supports. My 275 dollar duttneck IC finally fits nicely, although the guy had to add aluminum to it because it was too short. Since the front clip is off I'm test fitting the THDP so I can get the test pipe modified to fit. Also need to install a jeep steering shaft at some point when the front it off. I have some leaks to deal with which should take up an afternoon of crawling on the floor. If anybody has any tips for cleaning up T wheels I'm all ears. I'm not diggin them in their current state and it's pushing me to buy a set of 17s so Jenn will think it's a "cool" car.

Eagle One Mag Cleaner on those wheels. They might have changed the name but you want the one for open cast wheels.

 

[usetaboost]

I was wondering, what's the learning curve on that stud gun?

It's not too hard once you get it down. The trick is, have clean metal, and wipe it down with acetone or something. It's almost easier to use than hammer and dolly. The work "I" did turned out pretty damn nice...

I'll be posting update pics tonight.

 

[charlief1]

Well it's tonight. Where's the pics Jesse?:tongue::biggrin:

 

[usetaboost]

update pics...it's about time, huh?

 

[usetaboost]

a few more

 

[usetaboost]

Here's the last of the rust. Any suggestions? I'm thinking some bead blasting and duraglass.... the first pic you can see the bubbled through rust on the very corner of the door. sonofabitch

 

[usetaboost]

Damn this thread gets a lot of views. almost up to 16,000. Bunch of lurkers around here:biggrin:

 

[need boost]

Jess I watch lol Any time you can cut that out and weld in new metal you will be a lot ahead. Yes I have used glass before but not if I can help it. Any time you see pin holes you can bet its rotten several inches out from it . Hang in there buddy, your doing great

 

[charlief1]

Gotta agree here Jesse. Cut it out and put new metal in. It will last longer and you'll be much happier in the end.

 

[usetaboost]

Yeah I was thinking that last night after I gave up on lining the drivers door up. Must have been a sign. I don't know whats going to happen with the door though. That rusted part is right behind the door skin.

 

[need boost]

I know you don't want to hear it But if the rust is going under the skin just yank the door off, Peel the skin back right there and cut out the rot. Then you can fold the skin back over real PITA

 

[usetaboost]

...and the saga continues

after spending some time with rusty tonight I noticed the tiny rust spot on the door is easily accessible and can most likly just have a few spots of weld on it and ground down. No biggie, doors are gonna need some blasting anyway but it's all reachable so I threw them both on.

Flippin twisted ass doors. Took me 2 hours to get the driver's side adjusted and it still isn't perfect so the flucker has to be twisted a bit. I worked on the passenger side a bit more and that side looks damn good so I set the fender on. It's kind of cool seeing the body line match up all the way down the car:biggrin: I'm going to set everything and call it good even though the driver's fender will have to come off for the final rust hole to be patched. Whoever paints it can worry about that sh!t-I've gone as far as I can doing body work. I'll post pics after I get the fenders lined up and bolted down.

Sucks hanging doors by yourself...but somehow I always manage to do all this sh!t by myself.........

 

[usetaboost]

and just if anyone is wondering, 3/16in is the door to quarter gap and 3/8 is the rocker to door gap-you're welcome!

 

[usetaboost]

Looks like my car and keiths must have been built by that same guy that got stoned during lunch break. The door now will match up with the fender after bringing the front of the door down. The door to quarter gap still isn't perfect but it's a lot closer. The door and fender gap look damn good though. So I either got a retard door or a retard car...and I'm the retard that has spent over 9k on it and still don't have it painted yet, I dunno.

The top of the fender still doesn't want to line up with the skin of the door unless I push it up against the firewall. Even still it isn't perfect. Bottom the fender matches up though. F8ck it-still better than what it was even with the disappearing rocker gap

 

[st1nger]

just a thought

Jesse I think maybe your door and fender problems maybe due to your front door jam being weakened by structural rust damage in the jam between door weight hinge play the jam looked pretty bad try and take 5 or so measurement accross up and down on both door ways see if they are different. that rocker panel being messed up can change the placement of fender also fender could be tweeked flatter than normal, measure both fenders top to bottom on backside of fender just a suggestion may give you some answers that door jam be out would also mess with fender

 

[usetaboost]

I think what the issue might be is the inner fender and the fender itself. Believe it or not the top curve of the fender actually matches up with the curve of the door by the a pillar. The passenger side is just the opposite. Fender matches on the side and is even on the top but the inside curves are off. I'll take pics of things when I get up this afternoon

 

[st1nger]

have you tried installing without interfender if pass side lines up bottom line then mid-line the top should line up unless fender is stretched or flattened out if pass side lines up then dr should I would still take some measurements body could also have slight twist just a thought

oh on your comment $9000 and not painted, dam I hope $6000 is in the motor haha other than orig purchase cost my restoration is about 500 bucks so far thats body work replacement panels, primers ,paints,stripper, replacement or new parts brakes, brakelines, roters,drums, sandblasting materials, more than likely 100bucks of that for extra parts I just wanted ttops,fenders,glass,interior panels,service manuals full dash not saying anything bad

but I 'am on a tight budget $2500-$3000 max total. Of course all my parts are Arizona/cali parts I'am going on another parts run here shortly, find clean doors all the time most have slight surface rust but clean up very easy I pass on part if they are not perfect no dents or dings, want to have a complete front clip in storage with doors trunk lid and two full rear quarter panels and full floor pan and the holy grail the ttop roof windshield cap panel point being your doing outstanding for all to see and I work best from pictures

 

[usetaboost]

9000. THis is where it went. 2100 for car. 3 quarts of por15, all new fuel lines and brake lines, new rotors, machine work on motor and rebuild kit and 204-214 cam and springs, different heads, 14 bolt turbo oil pan, new body bushings, all new bushings and front end parts, springs, new gas tank, upper door panels, doors, hood, 2 trim pieces, dash plaque, speakers, 2 tires, hydroboost, a few interior trim pieces, gallons of degreaser, numerous cans of spray primer and paint, driveshaft, 2 turbos, hotwire kit, alky kit, a little powdercoating, side marker lights, black trim tail lights, all new mounts, exhaust, 3inch downpipe, a bunch of little stuff I bought from the junkyard, shipping on damn near everything I bought since 90% of it was bought off the board, and 800 in patchwork. Still need a new windshield, headliner recovered, weatherstripping, carpet, steering wheel, lock up switch and a can of interior paint from gbodyparts and a set of wheels cuz I want bigger than stock.

Here's what was good when I got the car: steering collum, dash pad, front speakers, driver's tail light, front bezels, rear aluminum support, one blinker trim, trans, rear end, 5 glass trim pieces, passenger drip rail and a pillar trim, trunk deck, horn button.

Use your imagination, if it isn't listed up there for what was good, it was shot, missing or broken. I too thought this was going to be a budget of 5k.