calais1965
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- Joined
- Mar 10, 2009
Hello!
We started installing S&W 4130 rollcage to Turbo-t.
Pictures are here:
We started installing S&W 4130 rollcage to Turbo-t.
Pictures are here:
My S&W Rollcage installation Pictures
- Thread starter calais1965
- Start date
calais1965
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- Mar 10, 2009
calais1965
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- Mar 10, 2009
calais1965
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- Mar 10, 2009
calais1965
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- Mar 10, 2009
calais1965
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- Mar 10, 2009
calais1965
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- Mar 10, 2009
What happened to pics?
calais1965
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- Mar 10, 2009
Todays progress..
calais1965
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- Mar 10, 2009
First time installing cages, i hope this is done right?
Squid4life
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- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
Looks good so far. I hope you don't plan on having sun visors, and maybe not even a headliner. The new car I bought has the main hoop located similar to yours and there is no way to put the visors in, and really don't think I can put a headliner in unless it is in pieces. Not sure if that matters to you, but I would like to put them in my car sooner or later, so will have to use some ingenuity for sure. Also, what kind of door panels do you have? concert sound door panels are pretty wide down there by the forward mounting point of the front down bar. Again, may not matter if you are not using panels. Again, looks really nice.
Everything looks good. your doing it right. The fit and welds look good. Clean the scale off the tube with some emery cloth and acetone before you weld and they will look even better.
Squid4life is right. You really should have more interior panels in the car. At the minimum, put your door panels on before you weld the door bars in. I'm betting that the door bars S&W sends are just straight sections of tube. You'll want to put a bend in the tube to clear the arm rest. Otherwise you'll end up notching the armrest or not running one at all.
Your a bit far along now, but I always like to tack the bars in until everything is fit. Then pull it back apart to weld the hard to reach spots. By weldng everything 100%, you'll get yourself into some situations where you have to compromise things to keep from cutting stuff apart that you just welded.
I like the tabs to the old seat belt mounts, but how will you get that panel back in once the tab is welded? Or is that just for fitting the hoop?
For the headliner, you can take the old press board backing and trace it out onto a sheet of thin flexible plastic. Cut to size and glue on thin fabric (not headliner material). Then you can pull the front or rear window and pull the board and fabric over the cage. I've never found a good way to make the front hoop clear the visors. If you really have to have them, weld a tab on the bar and bolt the visor to the tab. I should make some billet clamps with some tabs that have the visor bolt pattern in them.
Squid4life is right. You really should have more interior panels in the car. At the minimum, put your door panels on before you weld the door bars in. I'm betting that the door bars S&W sends are just straight sections of tube. You'll want to put a bend in the tube to clear the arm rest. Otherwise you'll end up notching the armrest or not running one at all.
Your a bit far along now, but I always like to tack the bars in until everything is fit. Then pull it back apart to weld the hard to reach spots. By weldng everything 100%, you'll get yourself into some situations where you have to compromise things to keep from cutting stuff apart that you just welded.
I like the tabs to the old seat belt mounts, but how will you get that panel back in once the tab is welded? Or is that just for fitting the hoop?
For the headliner, you can take the old press board backing and trace it out onto a sheet of thin flexible plastic. Cut to size and glue on thin fabric (not headliner material). Then you can pull the front or rear window and pull the board and fabric over the cage. I've never found a good way to make the front hoop clear the visors. If you really have to have them, weld a tab on the bar and bolt the visor to the tab. I should make some billet clamps with some tabs that have the visor bolt pattern in them.
Evaddave 87gn
Always learning...
- Joined
- Dec 16, 2005
Looking good! I'll be starting my S&W 8pt soon. Did you buy the 'pro-bars'?
Our TSO Car has a full cage and I installed a replacement headliner, installed from the rear window, no sweat, now the rear sail panels were a bitch to put back in as I tied the main hoop to the downbars with additional bars. just below the 1/4 glass and along the top of the seat.
Squid4life
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
Here is a pic of the bar in my new car. You can see the needed bend in the bar, or at least the one that was needed in this car. If you are a skinny guy and can live with the bars close to you, you may not need to mess with it. But, I think I saw you had Recaro seats in there, and I know the Recaros I have are kinda wide. Might check clearance with seat sat in place, and with the door panel in place.
Good info about the headliner guys, I plan to put one in the new car.
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calais1965
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- Mar 10, 2009
Thanks for advises!
"I like the tabs to the old seat belt mounts, but how will you get that panel back in once the tab is welded? Or is that just for fitting the hoop?"
Tabs are just for fitting the hood. Today we will install some door panels it helps making door bars.
I think i dont install rear seats because u cant use them at all.
I have recaro seats to front but they are very wide, racing seat would be lot better.
Tig welder is bought from ebay price was fair $899...
JP
"I like the tabs to the old seat belt mounts, but how will you get that panel back in once the tab is welded? Or is that just for fitting the hoop?"
Tabs are just for fitting the hood. Today we will install some door panels it helps making door bars.
I think i dont install rear seats because u cant use them at all.
I have recaro seats to front but they are very wide, racing seat would be lot better.
Tig welder is bought from ebay price was fair $899...
JP
calais1965
Member
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2009
X2Ray-Ban is sun visors..... and wife take Cucci`s...........or what JP ?
Looks good
That's the Way I Like It!!!
