Narrowband and wideband disagree. PL files inside.

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!
Eric, you may be able to adjust the volts on the analog input settings you have your transducer on to agree with your manual gauge.

That's a good idea. I don't log fuel pressure, but I could...and I could probably adjust the voltage to read properly.
 
I have an autometer 0-100psi transducer from my old gauge. The gauge flaked out on it. If you want, I can ship it to you.

That would be fantastic.
I'd be happy to pay shipping, and if it still doesn't work (flaky gauge), I'll ship it back to you.
Shoot me a PM, with your address, and I'll get you some $$.
 
Rhat always seems to be how it works out. Something small and simple gets overlooked and totally breaks your stones. Definitely add fueling in the chip parameter one and see what happens. Set it at 136 and see how your blms and narrowband readings react. They should get richer. I don't remember if you mentioned it or not, but how old is your fuel filter? If you already answered that in a previous post, sorry for the repitition.
 
BLM at idle wasn't too bad at 134.
I'm ignoring my WB until I have moved it further away from the turbine housing. I have the chip in its base settings, with the alky turned off. I'm not going to touch timing or boost until this is fixed.
I didn't check the 1:1 rise on the mechanical gauge. It looks like my autometer gauge reads 10psi low.
I did a leakdown check on the system while I had the gauge hooked up. It held pressure fine. I was going to do an injector balance test, but I couldn't find my injector tester.
I will find the cause of the problem. It's just going to take a while...and it's going to be something small, and stupid. (high resistance in a connector, a crappy, unrelated ground..) I refuse to throw parts at the problem.
If it's really lean,the spark plug insulators should be very white white at the end of a run.
 
how old is your fuel filter?
Checking the fuel pressure at WOT will tell everything . If it's good,the filter is good. It's the very first thing to check when you see low O2s and spark retard. If the pressure rises as it should,everything in your fuel delivery system is good and you can move on to something else.
 
Checking the fuel pressure at WOT will tell everything . If it's good,the filter is good. It's the very first thing to check when you see low O2s and spark retard. If the pressure rises as it should,everything in your fuel delivery system is good and you can move on to something else.

Agreed, but the gauge used to verify the 1:1 rise is still in question. WOT fp never got checked with the mechanical gauge. Could just be skewed 10psi, but it could be completely inaccurate at higher pressure readings. We are assuming we have the proper 1:1 rise, but not 100% sure still. Everything is relative. I like to change the fuel filter as a precaution need it or not, especially after a fuel pump change. The gas quality sucks these days, and it's cheap insurance. That's the only reason I asked.
 
Also, 580s seems pretty low to me on the narrowband with BLM readings only at 134. TType6 is right, check the plugs. I may be wrong, but I still get a gut feeling that the O2 sensor is sketchy
 
My car is doing THIS EXACT SAME THING!!! I've blown two head gaskets under 20-22 pounds of boost while spraying alky. My WB reads 10.0 and my narrow band reads in the mid to high 600s but I'm getting no knock on any of my passes. People are telling me to crank the boost up higher to lean it out or decrease fuel and just tune for no knock. I'm tired of replacing head gaskets on this damn car so I'd rather find out what's causing it. Did you fix your problem and how? I can't figure this out...
 
You guys need to read your plugs. The car tells a lot with just the plugs.
Get a new 02 sensor in the car and try for low-mid 800's up to 3rd gear. Then start going to the middle of 3rd. See where the 02s are there. Adjust from there.
Once the 02's are where they should be for tuning purposes like 800 in top of third. Put new set of plugs in and run the car to top of 3rd. shut the motor down immediately after the run and coast to your driveway. let car cool down and start reading plugs. The strap on the new plug should have a blue color somewhere around the bend. The flat part, just above the threads, should be flat black. The porcelain top should be white or a hint off white. There should be a shadow band at the base of this porcelain(hard to see). The 02's get a bad rap, but thats what we used to tune with years ago. My LC1 sensor is flaky all the time. I dont trust it yet. BTW, I just tuned out my TTA this way up to 21psi.
 
All that and DOUBLE CHECK the torque on your knock sensor!!!! NO thread tape on the knock sensor is there?????
 
My LC1 sensor is flaky all the time. I dont trust it yet. BTW, I just tuned out my TTA this way up to 21psi.
I tried the LC1 and could not get it to work reliably. Did the support forum etc. NO luck with that brand...
 
You guys need to read your plugs. The car tells a lot with just the plugs.
Get a new 02 sensor in the car and try for low-mid 800's up to 3rd gear. Then start going to the middle of 3rd. See where the 02s are there. Adjust from there.
Once the 02's are where they should be for tuning purposes like 800 in top of third. Put new set of plugs in and run the car to top of 3rd. shut the motor down immediately after the run and coast to your driveway. let car cool down and start reading plugs. The strap on the new plug should have a blue color somewhere around the bend. The flat part, just above the threads, should be flat black. The porcelain top should be white or a hint off white. There should be a shadow band at the base of this porcelain(hard to see). The 02's get a bad rap, but thats what we used to tune with years ago. My LC1 sensor is flaky all the time. I dont trust it yet. BTW, I just tuned out my TTA this way up to 21psi.
E85 and 30 psi! Let's go! Who cares what the plugs look like then!
 
Back
Top