Nasty lil Gremlin

[TurboTGuy]

So SALVAGEV6 was pretty much right on the money.....

Some 'o you guys are pretty damn good with these cars.

 

[Razor]

did the dropping MAP show in the logfile?

B

Its a catch 22. If the MAP loses connection then your bubble goes to 100 KPA since the engine isnt running

 

[kidglok]

Its a catch 22. If the MAP loses connection then your bubble goes to 100 KPA since the engine isnt running

If the map losses the electrical connection it will go to -14.5psi (on xfi log). Because its reflecting zero volts

 

[Razor]

Thinking out loud.. maybe the best situation would be to wire a dedicated harness from the FAST 3 bar male plug directly to the 3 bar on the fender doing away with the factory wiring at the clear and black connectors. As it is now looks like the connector on the FAST goes attached to the factory wiring at the clear/black connector.. that in turn goes to the 3 bar. I cant tell by the pictures where the green signal wire exactly ties into.

Bob.. wonder if it could have been losing 5v to the MAP creating the issue? Gray wire issue?

Just recently thanks to an awesome tip from Bison.. I started including a harness with the kits to get 5v from the TPS to feed the MAP sensor.
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/new-for-december-2012-alkycontrol.387882/

These cars are getting old.. and old wiring is the death..

 

[Razor]

If the map losses the electrical connection it will go to -14.5psi (on xfi log). Because its reflecting zero volts

But when I saw that car few months ago.. I could have sworn the bubble was at 100 kpa.. not buried down in the vacuum zone. Thats why the ignition module was deemed the culprit..maybe maybe maybe.. hard to remember what I did last year in the middle of an afternoon 100 miles away from my comfort zone

 

[HelloBozos]

If it uses the factory ECM connectors and wiring harness you can always check behind the glove box for this connector which is off the ECM/IGN fuse and is needed for stock ECM power and also powers the module electronics MAF and ESC I think.

It is a pink/blk stripe wire in cavity F, one side is a fatter wire than the other side and both sides of the connector are the same color.

It's right behind the glove box and wrapped in foam you can't miss it, worth a wiggle and dumping whatever is in the glove box on the passenger floor.

You can see clearly where I had to bypass my connector and I put the electrical tape over the heat shrink tube and soldered splice.

I wish there was a prize or something, But Hey You About Won, It was in that connector, but it was how the Alky got tied in with it.

 

[EVIL]

Cool. But now I need some new issue to follow on this site.


D

 

[TurboTGuy]

Cool. But now I need some new issue to follow on this site.


D

http://turbobuick.com/forums/threads/speedworld-motorplex-in-az-rumored-to-be-closing.390044/

 

[salvageV6]

At that connector is the ECM/IGN fuse wiring. It is only a 10A circuit and goes from a fatter 16 gauge wiring to the 20 gauge wiring that powers the ECM, ESC, MAF, and the CCCI module on pin F.

I would bet that connector and perhaps the underhood splice point where the 20 gauge wiring from the sensors and modules splice together cause a lot of problems.

Mine looked factory original and mint until I touched the wire and the car died immediately.

I would never hook anything that used any amount of current to the ECM/IGN fuse and wiring.

It's not the best place to get power, but we all probably tie in things to that pink/blk wire at the ECM such as KR gauges, etc.

Glad you all found it quickly.

That glove box wiring looks like something I would do, so you better check it out and re-do any questionable connections.

 

[TurboTGuy]

Glad you all found it quickly.

Quickly??????

I recall reading about this problem on 3 or 4 different threads for the last 2 weeks minimum......

I guess that skweeky wheel WILL always get the grease.......

Glad you got it fixed, HB!

 

[HelloBozos]

In all, it took some ""Violence""" to actually Find where the issue was.All my original stuff is back on the car now,(less the sensors i replaced on the motor). Logging an then after inspecting it then swapping out parts from the logs wasn't the way to go ""on This error "". Once on the finial part swap,the Capser Adaptor box was tried,Lue the Mech grabbed the whole harness an shook-it hard. The car died...After a, lol,Shake-down to find the source,it turned out to be the ""3 wire connector"" pin connections with the solid green wire an two other colors,the Alky connector (Circled in the photo below). So that was problem #1.
Problem #2 ,it was the Alky source of power an got tied into the Map sensor's wiring in the Factory Foam connector.(i forget the pin #, it was towards the out side an light green, i think,Not sure,wasn't pink though,The arrowed location in the photo)
The Problem in General....The 3 wire alky green wire connector would short out just from the volts warmth,(Increidtiable !)or it happened once when the door was shut one time but not after that (so that got chalked up to coincidence) or while slaloming,an took out the MAP sensor reading correctly since it was on the same circuit. Zap...Instant motor stall.
Let the car cool, Fired right back-up, normal, then all the above repeats...
Now the cars re-wired all nice an tight, in that area,an Shook Hard Tested!!...The Alky isolated with it's own volt source now out of the Foamy connector ,....No Faults,No Stalls,No Nothing..Motor run's an run's, nice an smooth....Time to Hit the Road!! (after 2 months/$2000 of goofing-off with this Gremlin)

 

[salvageV6]

Well it took me two years to find my problem, started out intermittant reset of chip and flashing SES light while driving causing the anti-theft to kick in in the chip and a year later the car would die and then restart usually then I started checking the ECM and harness.

Took a while to work my way back to the glove box and find that thing in the service manual.

I would have preferred two weeks.....