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- Thread starter Razor
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Well, mine is not a full GT series unit. As mentioned, its what Precision refers to as an SC6152S. What that means is---
Compressor
Garrett GT40 56 trim wheel
Compressor Housing
Garrett TO4S 0.70 A/R with ported shroud inlet
Turbine
Garrett T350 (aka T3 Stage 5)
Turbine Housing
Precision T3 0.63 A/R
The center section is a standard Garrett journal bearing type.
I have been told this turbo as configured will support 710 crank hp, but I have no way of verifying that number. But, I know it can make over 600 whp as I have seen a few Honda dyno plots showing those power levels.
I actually have one M15 and one M10 nozzle. I started with one M15 then when I realized I needed more, I went with the extra M10 and it was perfect.
I don't think spraying a bunch of alky down low is the right thing to do as far as spooling the turbo is it??? Whenever I tried to run a lot of alky when I first nailed it, the motor would bog and be flooded...that's no way to spool a turbo...it's the later gears (3rd in Buicks) that you have to worry about fuel otherwise you will go boom...1st and 2nd gear there's not that much load on the motor because of the gearing so there's no need for tons of fuel or alky...unless I am wrong but I'm just going off experience...
Don actually it was common practice to spike the fuel curve in the 2800-3200 range on the Buicks for spoolup. Ask Joe back at the shop
Now if you run a chip that has the fuel spiked on it.. then you had alcohol..you have a mess when you try and pour it in.
HTH
makes sense...
I've always tuned according to this advice..."always tune the turn-on point of the alcohol injection system to come on when you would normally first experience knock on straight pump gas"
meaning if you started seeing detonation at 18 lbs of boost...make the alky turn on at 17 lbs of boost...
I also always thought you had to lean the alky spray just like you do the fuel to make more horsepower...if you spray too much alky then it floods the engine and you bog...
maybe the Razor kit is just different than the SMC kit
I've always tuned according to this advice..."always tune the turn-on point of the alcohol injection system to come on when you would normally first experience knock on straight pump gas"
meaning if you started seeing detonation at 18 lbs of boost...make the alky turn on at 17 lbs of boost...
I also always thought you had to lean the alky spray just like you do the fuel to make more horsepower...if you spray too much alky then it floods the engine and you bog...
maybe the Razor kit is just different than the SMC kit
The trick is to pummel the motor with lots of alcohol and not have it lay down/keel over. The aggression of spray plays a big part on keeping the AFR stable throughout a pull and keeping the motor making power.
If you can theoretically keep AFR at 11.8-12.0 throughout the entire band.. it will make more power than if the AFR dips..
Yes there is a difference they way the spray is applied. And its volume. It is that volume that creates the "Majic".
If you can theoretically keep AFR at 11.8-12.0 throughout the entire band.. it will make more power than if the AFR dips..
Yes there is a difference they way the spray is applied. And its volume. It is that volume that creates the "Majic".
Originally posted by d0n_3d
Actually the compressor on the 61 turbo is off the GT35R...it's a 61mm GT wheel
Yeah....thats its "aka" name
I did some digging awhile back and the 56 trim GT40 is now more commonly referred to as the GT35R. Must be marketing?
Hyboost4Banger
Trannybreaker to be
- Joined
- Nov 4, 2004
- Messages
- 66
Yes there is a difference they way the spray is applied. And its volume. It is that volume that creates the "Majic".
Yep...I'm right there with ya... Julio! . VOLUME BABY!
I feel it already! I used to set my DIY injection ( two 1.0 ERL nozzles) to come on at 2 psi with no bogging.. I'll bet that with a single M-15 turn on @ 2 psi it would probably kill the motor. (Haven't tried yet, still assembling parts...trying to find a suitable cell that fits)
I can ground the (violet (?)) wire to my clutch switch to reduce pump volume for stutterbox launches??
(I build about 5 psi on the line using the stutterbox and WOT shift to the finish. I think I can use that grounding wire feature unless you say otherwise. Anxious to try.)
Larry, ....my exhaust is funky.....3 in SS Forced Performance Japanese " tuner style" o2 housing out of the turbo to 3.5 in downpipe where 44mm Tail WG plumbs in....all mandrel bent out a straight thru magnaflow muff, tip made to look stock. Flows excellent!....Made it myself.
Mark
Yep...I'm right there with ya... Julio! . VOLUME BABY!
I feel it already! I used to set my DIY injection ( two 1.0 ERL nozzles) to come on at 2 psi with no bogging.. I'll bet that with a single M-15 turn on @ 2 psi it would probably kill the motor. (Haven't tried yet, still assembling parts...trying to find a suitable cell that fits)
I can ground the (violet (?)) wire to my clutch switch to reduce pump volume for stutterbox launches??
(I build about 5 psi on the line using the stutterbox and WOT shift to the finish. I think I can use that grounding wire feature unless you say otherwise. Anxious to try.)
Larry, ....my exhaust is funky.....3 in SS Forced Performance Japanese " tuner style" o2 housing out of the turbo to 3.5 in downpipe where 44mm Tail WG plumbs in....all mandrel bent out a straight thru magnaflow muff, tip made to look stock. Flows excellent!....Made it myself.
Mark
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2001
- Messages
- 11,267
Hey bud- did you read Eds post about the oil on the plugs?
if you need call him or me let me know, ed changes his plugs way too much, he would definitely know-
mine have oil on them too, just from the valve covers- guides would burn off soon and blow smoke on startup
BW
Bryan,
Man after pulling the spring.. I could rock the valve back and forth in the guide. The seal also was loaded up with oil underneath it.
Wish it wasnt true.. but it is.
Steve TTA850 also has his heads at the machine shop for guides. I believe its the style of rockers on the TTA. See my heads previously had 135 lb springs.. and the rockers on them were pretty beat up in the fulcrum area. So I didnt pay attention thought well.. high spring rate cuased the rockers to get chewed up.. well not only that, the rockers get chewed up and push the valves outward cuasing the extra guide wear. See its a totally different scenario on the Buick heads.. so now its time.
When I finally pull the heads, I'll send them to put OEM guides in them. I dont want the soft brass guides and teflon seal junk. Its great for a race car.. but for something you'll be putting miles on.. no way. Plus I run single springs.. a simple rubber seal will do just fine.
So now its time to blow the gasket.. and its giving me a hard time doing so.. Sure is fun
Man after pulling the spring.. I could rock the valve back and forth in the guide. The seal also was loaded up with oil underneath it.
Wish it wasnt true.. but it is.
Steve TTA850 also has his heads at the machine shop for guides. I believe its the style of rockers on the TTA. See my heads previously had 135 lb springs.. and the rockers on them were pretty beat up in the fulcrum area. So I didnt pay attention thought well.. high spring rate cuased the rockers to get chewed up.. well not only that, the rockers get chewed up and push the valves outward cuasing the extra guide wear. See its a totally different scenario on the Buick heads.. so now its time.
When I finally pull the heads, I'll send them to put OEM guides in them. I dont want the soft brass guides and teflon seal junk. Its great for a race car.. but for something you'll be putting miles on.. no way. Plus I run single springs.. a simple rubber seal will do just fine.
So now its time to blow the gasket.. and its giving me a hard time doing so.. Sure is fun
135 lb springs!??!!?? Those are wimpy
Dodge/Lotus went WAY overkill on the 2.2L 16V cars as far as spring pressure. I measured 280 lb for my springs! Word is that the head is designed for 10,000 rpm. Pity they put cams and manifolds on the car that are not good for anywhere near that
fastest stock block alky car??
im curious as to who has the record for the fastest stock block alky car. i have had alky on my car for about a year and a half and have been a best of 10.7 at 127 just wondering what everyone else has run. i have since added a bigger turbo, took off the super comp mufflers, added RJC pulleys, bumped up the timing a hair and gonna do a better tune. let me know what you guys have run
im curious as to who has the record for the fastest stock block alky car. i have had alky on my car for about a year and a half and have been a best of 10.7 at 127 just wondering what everyone else has run. i have since added a bigger turbo, took off the super comp mufflers, added RJC pulleys, bumped up the timing a hair and gonna do a better tune. let me know what you guys have run
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