"New" cam bearings, WTF!!

[DailyDrifter]

I found part of my problem, for one the cam had way too much endplay about 1/8th inch of forward to back movement. This engine has about a 1000 miles on it . THEN to top that off the crank sprocket was set at 4R . I was wondering why the thing ran like $hit from day phuckin one. This goes to show that no matter what, the only way to do something right is to do it yourself. The rest of the bearings look good from what I can see and feel, so I'm going to put a new front bearing in is this OK?

Oh if anyone in the northeast needs machine work, DONT go to Automotive and Industrial in Souderton, PA. They are the ones that assembled the block.

Sorry to bitch, but this $hit just pisses me off. It seems no one takes pride in there work anymore, I dont care if this was a Honda engine in a daily driver it still needs to be done right the first time.

 

[bison]

Looks like it was installed without a thrust assembly . The block is worn heavily where the cm thrust b back into it from the helix on the cam sensor gear. You need to do a complete teardown and have the block 100% cleaned since the metal from that problem will throughout the engine and will dislodge as you drive. You should be ok if you have the correct thrust assembly in there even with the worn block. They should be responsible for that f uck up since its blatant assembly error that they really cant pin on anyone but themself.

 

[DailyDrifter]

The pic shown is the bearing, it didnt go into the block. The pic makes it look bad, but it doesnt look good in real life either . Does it still need to be torn down? Im sending you a PM . Thanks

 

[bison]

Here is the washer:

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Contamination?? Just look at all the $hit imbedded in the brg.. As Bison said: That's a good indication that the engine has to be cleaned out.
Furthermore, I'd bet that those screw in plugs are too long, screwed in too far, and can be interferring w/ oil flow.
Didn't go into the block?? What's all that "fuzz" hanging on the edge of the bore?? I'd bet that the dia of the ft flange on the cam, matches the "recess" in the block. Look at how the OD of the flange is fretted...
Key word here is: "Industrial"... Given what I see, I'd pull the engine as it sits now. Call them, and take it back. You take it apart, you may "void" any chances of a replacement. [Not that I'd want one.]
One can only imagine how "FUBAR" the brg clearances, cyl wall finish, ring gaps, are etc,etc

 

[JOHNDEEREGN]

That sucks man

 

[TurboDave]

I found part of my problem, for one the cam had way too much endplay about 1/8th inch of forward to back movement. This engine has about a 1000 miles on it . THEN to top that off the crank sprocket was set at 4R . I was wondering why the thing ran like $hit from day phuckin one. This goes to show that no matter what, the only way to do something right is to do it yourself. The rest of the bearings look good from what I can see and feel, so I'm going to put a new front bearing in is this OK?

Oh if anyone in the northeast needs machine work, DONT go to Automotive and Industrial in Souderton, PA. They are the ones that assembled the block.

Sorry to bitch, but this $hit just pisses me off. It seems no one takes pride in there work anymore, I dont care if this was a Honda engine in a daily driver it still needs to be done right the first time.

What a massive deep groove dug into the front of the block face.
Looks like the cam walked right back into the block at least an 1/8"

I just looked at my stock block sitting on the bench and it doesn't have that groove dug into the block.

That's what ruined the bearing was all the block material being eaten away and forced into the bearing.

Or am I wrong?

 

[DailyDrifter]

Contamination?? Just look at all the $hit imbedded in the brg.. As Bison said: That's a good indication that the engine has to be cleaned out.
Furthermore, I'd bet that those screw in plugs are too long, screwed in too far, and can be interferring w/ oil flow.
Didn't go into the block?? What's all that "fuzz" hanging on the edge of the bore?? I'd bet that the dia of the ft flange on the cam, matches the "recess" in the block. Look at how the OD of the flange is fretted...
Key word here is: "Industrial"... Given what I see, I'd pull the engine as it sits now. Call them, and take it back. You take it apart, you may "void" any chances of a replacement. [Not that I'd want one.]
One can only imagine how "FUBAR" the brg clearances, cyl wall finish, ring gaps, are etc,etc

I actually thought that it was machine into the block, but when I talked to Bison I was looking at the cam and I can see where it the cam started to bore the block. My guess is the metal that was being bored went right into the cam bearing. This is a Billet cam and it molested the block , the cam still looks good

Also i'm NC now and the "machine shop" is in PA. I still have to call a couple of people and find out if the cam kit I got was supposed to have a thrust washer included.

What a massive deep groove dug into the front of the block face.
Looks like the cam walked right back into the block at least an 1/8"

I just looked at my stock block sitting on the bench and it doesn't have that groove dug into the block.

That's what ruined the bearing was all the block material being eaten away and forced into the bearing.

Or am I wrong?

Your right. They didnt put the thrust washer in between the cam and block and it just cut right in.

I'm going to rip the engine out and have it cleaned, new bearings, possible crank polish, or cut. Its gonna be awhile until I can get this thing back and running (lack of funds & job), but mark my words this car will run again!! After all "Lifes a Dance" :biggrin:

 

[bison]

We discussed going with a different cam for his application and i think its the right thing to do for his mainly street duty car with a stock crank. The cam he has in there is more for engines that are capable of revving to 6200 and have enough turbo to take advantage of the extra rpm. Fortunately he will be able to salvage the block easiest with the cam he is going to go with by cutting the thrust surface on the cam (which is a ductile cam) and installing a Torrington bearing assembly (comp part #3110TB) in between the cam and block using the cam itself to locate the bearing. From there he can order a thrust bumper assembly from comp and shim it down from the front. The thrust bumper is listed on Full Throttles site here: FULL THROTTLE SPEED - THRUST BUTTON FOR ROLLER CAM Not sure the comp part number though.

 

[DailyDrifter]

Brain, when I ordered the cam I also got the button for it so I should be good to go in that category.

 

[liv4gnz]

now in this case i should say

HAHAH GO **** YOURSELF WHAT GOES AROUND COMES AROUND YOU ****EN PRICK MAYBE NOW YOU CAN GET A TASTE OF WHAT IM GOING THROUGH FOR 3 TIMES IN AND OUT AND SEE HOW FRUSTRATING IT IS AND WITH *******S NOT MAKING THE SITUATION EASIER ON ME

KARMA IS A ****EN BITCH AND YOU JUST GOT A TASTE OF IT


but i think i should hold my self because i have more respect for members on this board than to flip out on some one who has added only negative comments towards me and laughs when my **** blew up

have fun cleaning the motor out

sincerely liv4gnz

 

[bison]

Brain, when I ordered the cam I also got the button for it so I should be good to go in that category.

Who the hell is Brain? lol

 

[DailyDrifter]

now in this case i should say

HAHAH GO **** YOURSELF WHAT GOES AROUND COMES AROUND YOU ****EN PRICK MAYBE NOW YOU CAN GET A TASTE OF WHAT IM GOING THROUGH FOR 3 TIMES IN AND OUT AND SEE HOW FRUSTRATING IT IS AND WITH *******S NOT MAKING THE SITUATION EASIER ON ME

KARMA IS A ****EN BITCH AND YOU JUST GOT A TASTE OF IT


but i think i should hold my self because i have more respect for members on this board than to flip out on some one who has added only negative comments towards me and laughs when my **** blew up

have fun cleaning the motor out

sincerely liv4gnz

Hahaa , BUT the differance is I started ONE thread about this problem AND found the problem. Not 20 threads about how this thing could have wore out . Also I didnt argue with anyone when they told me what happened, AND I even asked for Bison to call me and explain what happened, I didnt just slap the engine back together (or paint it neon green) and say a prayer. You are right about Karma, and you probably dont remember but I tried to help you out when you first started having problems , but you kept ranting on.

As far as I'm concerned you can take your troll a$$ back under the bridge where you came from :biggrin: .

Who the hell is Brain? lol

Brian, Brain whatever, 6 one way half-dozen the other :tongue: . And thanks again for calling me last night.

 

[liv4gnz]

it was a learning experience and i did take advice just not yours

 

[thadeal4real]

lol

There should be more of these threads

 

[DailyDrifter]

There should be more of these threads

WTF More threads like what?

 

[Turbo1dr]

If GM would have put a gerotor oil pump on the RWD engines that would never happen. That's one of the reasons I made one for mine. Even with a thrust washer those high volume/pressure stock style pumps puts a lot of stress on the timing components. Sorry for your troubles but like you said....if you want something done right ....better do it yourself.:smile:

 

[Dabigguy]

now in this case i should say

HAHAH GO **** YOURSELF WHAT GOES AROUND COMES AROUND YOU ****EN PRICK MAYBE NOW YOU CAN GET A TASTE OF WHAT IM GOING THROUGH FOR 3 TIMES IN AND OUT AND SEE HOW FRUSTRATING IT IS AND WITH *******S NOT MAKING THE SITUATION EASIER ON ME

KARMA IS A ****EN BITCH AND YOU JUST GOT A TASTE OF IT


but i think i should hold my self because i have more respect for members on this board than to flip out on some one who has added only negative comments towards me and laughs when my **** blew up

have fun cleaning the motor out

sincerely liv4gnz

When was the last time you got your azz kicked Liv4gnz? With comments like that I get a feeling the next time won't be too far off!!!

How do we get him banned for a few months so MAYBE his Yankee azz will learn some manners. We try to help the guy out and this is what we get in return.

 

[DailyDrifter]

If GM would have put a gerotor oil pump on the RWD engines that would never happen. That's one of the reasons I made one for mine. Even with a thrust washer those high volume/pressure stock style pumps puts a lot of stress on the timing components. Sorry for your troubles but like you said....if you want something done right ....better do it yourself.:smile:

Im a firm believer that things happen for a reason. I think i'm actually going to do what you did to your block and heads design, and port the block a little for better flow.

When was the last time you got your azz kicked Liv4gnz? With comments like that I get a feeling the next time won't be too far off!!!

How do we get him banned for a few months so MAYBE his Yankee azz will learn some manners. We try to help the guy out and this is what we get in return.

Its ok bigguy. I was hard on Livz4dudes, and I probably deserved what he said :biggrin:. It's really not a big deal, I actually laughed when he replied :biggrin:. I actually want to keep him here for entertainment. I'll let my fixed engine do the talking for me.

I'm not going to rush this engine, i'm going to take my time and do it right. Hopefully it will be done before "race wars"!!:tongue::biggrin:

 

[bison]

If GM would have put a gerotor oil pump on the RWD engines that would never happen. That's one of the reasons I made one for mine. Even with a thrust washer those high volume/pressure stock style pumps puts a lot of stress on the timing components. Sorry for your troubles but like you said....if you want something done right ....better do it yourself.:smile:

Agreed thats why i use a torrington bearing on everything i put together these days. I use standard volume and had a ductile cam eat into a block once. That was the last time for me.