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Mad_Trbo

Active Member
Joined
Jun 10, 2005
Messages
1,033
I know I have been back and forth with a few of you with ideas for my current build. Well It is finally coming to fruition, check out the web link with video information of the build up.

I would love to know what you guys think of what you are seeing so far and trust me more is to come. Engine Dyno results are in the near future.

StreetMuscleAction.com.

Thanks for your feedback and questions.
 
Thanks I can only hope the engine does as expected. 4.1 should be interesting.
 
That is really cool. I'm from High Point, NC and it's really good to see another option when looking for a local build. Subscribed....
 
What about all the people who say the stock 4.1 cant take the abuse put on it by the turbo?? have these issues been addressed? Im sure the girdle will help.
 
Issues

There are those aren't there.

I did go in and do a significant amount of work to the block to alleviate weak spots. Alot of grinding to to eliminate weak spots. Filled the valley along with many other little tricks.

If you want to ask a specific question, I'd love to discuss.

thanks for your interest.
 
id love to know what all work you've done on the block, do you think it has saved you money over buying a stage block? or building a 250 " stroker? Just looking for ideas for the future.
 
Intriguing

Sooooo... This is the one I heard about...


K.



What did you hear???

Is this world so small, I think I may recall us talking about a build for me a couple of years ago if this is who I think it is. You are in North Carolina right?
 
I am VERY concerned with the rod journal dimensions. By turning the rod journal diameter down to a SBC diameter, you are loosing WAY too much material in the journal overlap. There is BARELY enough with a stroker and stock journal diameter. Even with a 4340 forging. (especially a Chinese alloy) I think that will severly limit the durablity of your engine. The journal overlap is the weakest area of an even fire crank. It should be fine at 550 hp., but don;t let it detonate!!! You can even see how thin the overlap area is in the video. Just my opinion.
Nice video. :) (although the cam lift numbers quoted are inaccurate. -over .900" lift? That's almost Pro Stock range.;) ) The dry sump oiling will be nice. That, alone, is said to be worth 30-40 hp., but probably only at 7,000+ rpm.
Good luck with your project. It looks nice.
 
Hey Turbofabricator, you're right. I'm putting the videos together and that's a mistake I've got to go in and fix tonight. I guess it was too many hours straight in front of the computer. Total valve lift is 0.553 inches. I somehow took that as lobe lift and multiplied it again by the 1.6:1 rocker ratio to get over 900 lift. Stupid mistake, and thanks for the catch.
 
You make a valid point

I am VERY concerned with the rod journal dimensions. By turning the rod journal diameter down to a SBC diameter, you are loosing WAY too much material in the journal overlap. There is BARELY enough with a stroker and stock journal diameter. Even with a 4340 forging. (especially a Chinese alloy) I think that will severly limit the durablity of your engine. The journal overlap is the weakest area of an even fire crank. It should be fine at 550 hp., but don;t let it detonate!!! You can even see how thin the overlap area is in the video. Just my opinion.
Nice video. :) (although the cam lift numbers quoted are inaccurate. -over .900" lift? That's almost Pro Stock range.;) ) The dry sump oiling will be nice. That, alone, is said to be worth 30-40 hp., but probably only at 7,000+ rpm.
Good luck with your project. It looks nice.

Thanks for the catch on the valve lift.

As it relates to the journals am I incorrect in stating others have traveled this road before of a stroker making in excess of the 550 hp. Understanding there are several weak points and we've taken precautions to go about this as safely as possible. My / our point isn't to make the most horsepower or even run the fastest times. Hard to believe but this is a street affair that might make a pass or two, but the real goal is a crazy sick street car that is unique.


We plan on spending a healthy bit of time on the engine dyno bringing things around slowly. Taking note of anything that looks odd while also employing a trick or two in our tuning strategy.

I don't know if I agree with your conclusion regarding the benefits of the dry sump only being apparent above 7000RPM.
 
Thanks for the catch on the valve lift.

As it relates to the journals am I incorrect in stating others have traveled this road before of a stroker making in excess of the 550 hp. Understanding there are several weak points and we've taken precautions to go about this as safely as possible. My / our point isn't to make the most horsepower or even run the fastest times. Hard to believe but this is a street affair that might make a pass or two, but the real goal is a crazy sick street car that is unique.


We plan on spending a healthy bit of time on the engine dyno bringing things around slowly. Taking note of anything that looks odd while also employing a trick or two in our tuning strategy.

I don't know if I agree with your conclusion regarding the benefits of the dry sump only being apparent above 7000RPM.

Stroker cranks are common at over 1000 hp., but with std journal dimensions. By grinding the stroker journal down to the Chevy dimension, you effectively reduce journal overlap a significant amount. K1 makes a nice affordable H-Beam rod with standard Buick dimensions. The weak spot of a stroker crank, is the journal overlap. That is where they break. I've seen BMS stroker cranks fail. The BMS cranks are a better forging/material, than the CAT stuff, too. I've seen them break at the 850hp level with standard diameter. Even the Chevy V6 has the larger rod journal diameter vs. the V8, to increase the journal overlap. (read strength)
The dry sump system is MUCH better than the standard V6 oiling system. BUT......the stock Buick v6 oiling system works, and lives fine at over 800 hp. Most of the gains (measurable horsepower) of drysump oiling is at high RPMs. Not that it is a bad idea, but it is VERY expensive. (as I'm sure you now know.;) ) Typical high end dry sump system usually run over $4,500 for the pump, hoses, fittings, tank, breathers, pan, filter(s), ect. I commend you in your pursuit of oiling, though.
All of the above, is, just MY opinion.:)
 
Typical high end dry sump system usually run over $4,500 for the pump, hoses, fittings, tank, breathers, pan, filter(s), ect.
one thing you need to know, is that here in the southeast (home of NASCAR) if you know people on race teams, they can usually hook you up with great deals. stage blocks are getting harder to find, but if I call in some favors I'm sure I could find 1 or 2.
 
Part II

Part II is here.

Check her out an of course post your comments. I hope to have her on the dyno by the end of the month.

Happy Holidays and New Year to everyone out there.

StreetMuscleAction.com.
 
Everyone, thank you for your interest. The third installment is on it's way soon. If you haven't checked out the 1st and 2nd please do and post your thoughts.

Engine dyno time should be happening in the next two weeks. I'll post some pics with it on the stand and the dyno harness on it.
 
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