New engine Runs then dies after 5-6 seconds :( Lost

Have you tried jumping power to the fuel pump test wire behind alternator. That will hot wire the fuel pump on for testing.
 
I have seen/heard *one time* where the cam sensor was mistimed and the engine would start and run for a couple seconds. I would be the first to say that it is not possible for this to happen, that it should start, or not... but it did happen.

until the cam sensor timing is checked, we don't know.
 
I have seen/heard *one time* where the cam sensor was mistimed and the engine would start and run for a couple seconds. I would be the first to say that it is not possible for this to happen, that it should start, or not... but it did happen.

until the cam sensor timing is checked, we don't know.
Yes that was actually happening to me Bob. It also didn’t help that the window in the sensor had a broken tab lol .
 
Setting cam sensor isn't that bad. I use a spare cap with a lead on the blue middle wire hooked up to a volt meter to see the drop. Pull all the spark plugs, or as many as you can to make turning the engine over easier. Since I have a SLIC, I put a socket on my alternator and turn the engine over with a ratchet there with my left hand and my right hand with a finger in #1 cyl spark plug hole to feel compression. Then measure back what, 1.45 inches on the timing and turn the cap ccw to see the drop. Ok, it's a pita I agree.
 
You have a kid or girlfriend/wife that can watch the fuel pressure gauge or start the car so you can watch the gauge?


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Verified Fuel pressure with my wife last night it is good stayed steady while running then died all I had time for Ill be swaping the MAF this weekend and see what that does.
 
Verified Fuel pressure with my wife last night it is good stayed steady while running then died all I had time for Ill be swaping the MAF this weekend and see what that does.
Wait, stop right there! You said the fuel pressure "stayed steady while running then died" correct? If so, that's where you half step your troubleshooting....... Like mentioned more than a few times already: JUMPER THE PUMP and see if it stays running. Take it from there.
 
Did you unplug the translator from the car harness? If not try that.
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Glad someone finally caught that. The ''unplug the MAF'' test is different with a Translator. You need to unplug the Translator from the cars harness for that test to work.


Unplugging the MAF from the Translator will have the Translator without a air flow signal but still be talking to the ECM. As far as the computer knows, there's a MAF there and it's not ramping up when the air starts flowing.
 
OK so the issue is the MAF and the Translator even though I triple checked the setting in the thing with the old LT1 MAF using the translator it ran for about 30 sec then shut down. Buddy came over that has helped me with the car and said "HAY WHY THE BOX?" I said what? He said there wasnt one on it with the old MAF! LMAO I said "YOUR RIGHT!" Took the Translator out and plugged the LT1 MAF In directly the way it was when I took it apart and WALLA! Car started ran ruff for a few seconds and then went high Idle like it should! Ran for a few min. till we couldnt breath (Its 15* out) and shut it down. So riddle me this Riddle me that HOW IN GODS NAME DOES THIS WORK! I have a Turbo Tweak chip and even in the directions it says about using a translator with an LT1 MAF now the way the car is set right now is how I got it 10 years ago (as far as the MAF and other wiring go) So I'm confused why the larger 85MM One I got from Full throttle connected the way it should doenst work?? And yes I looked to see if there was a Translator hidden some place and no its plug in right to the wiring next to the fan those wires go no place but into the harness.

AS far as fuel pressure its all good drops like it should when running. SO I guess now I have to figure out why this other stuff doest work as it should. Im very confused on this $400 Upgrade that its looking like I might not being using. Witch sucks because air flow is every thing when it comes to making power.

Your thoughts and impute are welcome as Id like to know others thoughts or issues with this.

Thanks again for all your info it was all very helpful and very much appreciated just wish my friend would have come over sooner and said what he did today.

Just need a new Chip and come spring she will be good to rock and roll! (I hope lol)
 
Is the translator new or old?
There’s a good possibility the issue is with the box.
 
Does it take a second for the car to die or does it just sign right off I mean when it starts to die that is the reason I ask is I'm assuming we don't know if it's fuel or fire that's causing the issues this correct
 
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"HAY WHY THE BOX?" I said what? He said there wasnt one on it with the old MAF! LMAO I said "YOUR RIGHT!" Took the Translator out and plugged the LT1 MAF In directly the way it was when I took it apart and WALLA!


Somethings up. A LT1 MAF will not physically plug into a stock harness. It will only plug into a Translator harness. (only a stock style MAF will plug into the harness)


Are you sure you're not confusing a stock style MAF for an LT1 unit?
 
i didnt read all the post but i would check EGR seat or for a large vacuum leak i would ditch the translater and just put a stocker maf on it .check gap on crank sensor ,check setting on cam sensor ,check plug wires ,make sure maf is not in backwards ,make sure Fuel pressure doesnt drop when running just to start out bet you find it if you do these things put a known good maf on it just a factory one
 
This is whats on it now not shown is the Adapter plug that connects to the factory wiring harness
 

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Somethings up. A LT1 MAF will not physically plug into a stock harness. It will only plug into a Translator harness. (only a stock style MAF will plug into the harness)


Are you sure you're not confusing a stock style MAF for an LT1 unit?

It has an adapter plug on it :) Check the photo I just posted
 
This is what I got from Full Throttle thing is mine has no screen in the end of it ???
 

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This is an old Photo (Looks way way different now) but that is the sensor in the pipe on the car that is an LT1 MAF Correct ?
 

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