New to the game

[Bornchamp77]

"New to the game" I've been reading this and other forums in anticipation of purchasing my first turbo Buick. I've learned and come to greatly appreciate the legacy and legend of the great Grand National. *What I would like to know is what to expect from performance and driveability of an 87! *I own several small and big block Chevys so I'm not used to driving a turbo car. So far I love the power and thrust after maybe 100 feet but from a stand still it perform unlike I have seen described in the forum. *I was looking to get a heart pounding jump off the line but I just can't see to build any low end boost! *It seems I have to floor the accelerator and Pin the throttle open to achieve any boost at all, which in turn leaves me desiring a little more response control. Is this normal? Remember I'm a newbie! Thanks fellas!!!! Bye the way the sellar explained to me that the final tune on the GN was done by Mike Licht which led me to this forum. So Mike if your out there I would love to hear from you. Thanks again!!!

 

[chrisgarrett]

Until Mike responds, it would help if you would post what upgrades the car has. And no, a sluggish acceleration is far from normal. Your problem could be a bad tune, or a mismatched combo of upgrades, i.e. converter and turbo match.

 

[Bornchamp77]

Until Mike responds, it would help if you would post what upgrades the car has. And no, a sluggish acceleration is far from normal. Your problem could be a bad tune, or a mismatched combo of upgrades, i.e. converter and turbo match.

I'm thinking on the same lines you are. It must be a bad tune! Im going to have to go to a tune shop before I start tearing apart the components. I do believe I'm running on a stock motor and trans though. Although, it does have a brand new turbo and the trans has a mild shiftkit, a k&n cold air intake and new injectors Sorry I can't give specific info I have to find out what my setup is

 

[XXQUICK6XX]

First thing is to buy a good scan tool it can be your best friend. It can save you alot of time guessing on things. And i agree with Chris to get in touch with Mike he is good people.

Steve

 

[Bornchamp77]

Thanks I did pick up a scan master today. I also found that the problem was a wide open wastegate. Someone back the adjuster off to have no tension. I tighten it up made 6 full turns and the smile on my face was priceless.

 

[jasjamz]

How much boost is it reading now?
Do you have any knock retard showing up on the scanmaster?
What are you using for fuel?

 

[Bornchamp77]

After a few quick passes I tweaked it to 14-15 max psi. I'm comfortable with hat until I learn her inside out. I didn't install the scanmaster yet, had to go into the shop and install a rearend. I do have a knock Gage that's working on the a pillar. It's reading green and amber. So I should be safe. I'm running sunoco 94 octane.

 

[Bornchamp77]

Bye the way what is a safe max boost on the stock block. I don't want to blow a gasket through trial and error. Also where is my ECU.

 

[jasjamz]

The ECM is located in the passenger side kick panel. That would be right next to the passengers right foot. Get the scanmaster in asap. 14 psi could be safe if the timing, fueling and the rest if the settings are correct. I have seen daily drivers with race chips in the computer show knock retard at 10-12 psi on 93 oct.

 

[R.I.P.92Rolla]

yea i have had my t type under a year still and getting it ready for this summer...hopefully after its all done..i can get it tuned right and not blow anything up.

 

[WIKEDV6]

yea i have had my t type under a year still and getting it ready for this summer...hopefully after its all done..i can get it tuned right and not blow anything up.

Hmmmmmm Addison, IL. You are not too far from me. There are a good number of us in the western suburbs!!!


Prasad

 

[R.I.P.92Rolla]

Hmmmmmm Addison, IL. You are not too far from me. There are a good number of us in the western suburbs!!!


Prasad

yea i figured there were quite a bunch of TR owners around me...I am still new also and trying to figure stuff out...

 

[Bornchamp77]

Doing a radiator flush tonight!! Which coolant are you guys using? what benefits these engines most? Also are you guys using synthetic oils or no?

 

[R.I.P.92Rolla]

I only use straight water...and drain it in the winter.

 

[WIKEDV6]

Doing a radiator flush tonight!! Which coolant are you guys using? what benefits these engines most? Also are you guys using synthetic oils or no?

Honestly a good brand like Prestone will do the job for the coolant. We used to use straight distilled water and the water wetter product and the car seemed to run a little cooler but nothing that made a big difference. It's not worth taking a chance here in the Midwest where below freezing can occur as early as early October and I have seen plenty of cracked blocks including my brother’s motor. You know how it is; when the winter approach, you still get few good days in November/December to cruse your car before you tuck it away.

Now for the oil, remember our cars weren't potty trained from the factory so soon or later it will leak from rear main seal, valve cover gaskets, oil pan gasket, front cover, turbo oil feed/oil drain and so on. The point I am trying to make is; synthetic is very slick and it will find its way out before your normal conventional oil does. So I would run a good brand of oil. The important thing to watch out is; make sure you get an oil with the proper Zinc and other metal that we need to protect the flat tappet cams these cars came with from the factory. Otherwise you maybe looking at a wiped cam lobe in the future. Now if you are running a roller cam, then you can run any oil you want and be ok. Well one company did an extensive study recently on the wear on the roller cams too (ductile rollers I believe) and also showed some wear in them too due to lack of the needed metals in the oil.
If you just want to use any oil, use a bottle of ZDDP every time you change your oil and it's worth the $7-$10 for the added insurance. You can also find that Valvoline Racing oil and has the Zinc additive but I don't know if it has the right amount. Now days all the new cars comes with roller cams and the government is cracking down on the oil companies to remove the unwanted metals from the oil due to emission reasons.

Just my $.02

HTH
Prasad

 

[jasjamz]

He said wetter...:tongue:
Plugs, same ones I had in this time last year. Oil, may go to synthetic this year. Castrol GTX in now... sounds like fast car stuff. Coolant on over the winter, may go to water and lube next month.

 

[WIKEDV6]

Haaaa!

He said "Lube"

Hey Jason, how is that beast running?

Prasad

 

[jasjamz]

It has a fuel leak that wont go away, and other issues that im going to trouble TurboBuRick with...:wink: I sick of this car. Wanna buy it, give me two movie tickets, dinner at Outback, and a SRT8 Jeep brochure.

 

[WIKEDV6]

It has a fuel leak that wont go away, and other issues that im going to trouble TurboBuRick with...:wink: I sick of this car. Wanna buy it, give me two movie tickets, dinner at Outback, and a SRT8 Jeep brochure.

You know how it is brother, if you fix one thing something else will break.
Where is it leaking? Fuel rail? Injectors? or you think it's leaking because you can't keep the pedal off the floor?


Hey I talked to Ricky, he said you car looks good, he said he likes the way it sits!! Is it just springs?

Prasad

 

[mmarlett]

Water for coolant

Just browsing when I found this thread. Have not seen to many members posting here that are located between MNilwaukee and Madison and myelf.

Anyway, I understand that water is an efficient coolant for summer, however, I heard that even after draining it for winter storage, a serious problems can occur. Even though the water is drained from the radiator, etc., some water will remain in the engine block passages. This water can freeze and crack the block. Maybee I am wrong.

Thanks,
Matt