New wheels installed- pics inside!!

definatly my #1 choice for wheels on a TR....sux they are soo much and i will never see a set on my car.....bad ass car man lookin good
 
Originally posted by darb
Well, I finally got my new wheels put on. My good friend Harvey Wallbanger and myself put them on this evening. I took a couple of pics as we went along. I have to admit, these wheels really set this GN apart, almost as if they were meant to be on a GN:D I am very impressed with the way these wheels have turned out, very nice! BTW, they are Simmons 3 piece wheels. 8.5" fronts with 245/45/17 with 4.4 BS and 9.5 rears with 285/40/17 with 4.7 BS. Let me know what you guys think. Thanks!

Brad
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Paint looks great but have to disagree with most opinions on the new wheels. I say put the other ones back on.

Don't take this the wrong way but the new ones look ricey.
 
Yeah you could either paint the drums or put 12 inch cross drilled polished rotors all around. Put those rims to good use.:D
 
Originally posted by bishir
I've never lowered one of these cars, but I imagine a pair of drop spindles and some lowered springs would do it. Depending on the size of slicks you run at the track it may not work too lowered in the back. Though most cars I've seen cleared the fender lip area and it was always the frame that was the problem on tire fitment. It's your car though so do what you want. I'd take those wheels anyday!James
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The above and get a set of airbags from Summit and you're all set;)
 
simmons wheels

First off killer looking wheels ,I have saved all these images to my computer from gm performance as a template of how I plan to do my WE4 only with the grey instead of black.What is the total cost wheels ,tires,caps,lugnuts done? Stephen
 
I got in on the group purchase on these wheels. GP price was $1795. Regular price is $2200. Price on tires depends on what kind you get. I chose Nitto 555 Extremes which cost around $600 for the four. I need to get more info on dropping the car 1-2 inches. Anyone have any links as to where to start looking? Thanks.

Brad
 
As far as lower, from experience those cars on GMHTP aren't making any trips to the track with some slicks in the trunk! Let alone pulling into the local Miccy D's without stoping traffic! I have Eibachs all the way around and with 4 people in the car she rubs the tires on common road bumps. Of coarse if you went with skinnier tires on the back it wouldn't be as much of a problem. And fender flares don't offer anymore wheel well clearance without cutting. the outer lip. Even my intercooler shroud has rubbed on common road bumps! I guess a strech is out of the question.

Just some things to think about. The look and handling is awesome, but some things are sacrificed to get it. As for the way 17's hook up, mine seem to do pretty good. I substituted width for side wall height and so far I'm happy. There no M/T's, but do a decent job.

Ryan
 
Ryan (GMachine),

What wheels and tire setup do you run? If I decide to drop my car any, it will only be 1 inch all the way around. Not sure I will even do that yet. I want the option to be able to get slicks underneath when making trips to the track.

Brad
 
Pics are in my sig. I doubt you'll be paitent enought to wait on them, took about 4 months after paying up front. I went with 17X9.5 rear 17X8 front. 285/40/17 Kumho's out back. There's only about 1/4 between tire and frame. I found I accually rub the inner fender well on bumps, but also had to roll the outer lip for hard cornering. it was starting to chew on the side wall just a bit. I also did the 12 brake swap too.

Ryan
 
The new wheels look great! :cool: But I agree, you definately need to lower it some, to match the wheels. I've lowered my muscle cars about every way possible, so here are a few methods:

Cheap; Take a torch to all for coil springs, while still on the car and fatigue them with the heat. Best if someone with experience does it for you, easy to screw up.

Cheap and dirty; Pull the front coil springs and cut 1 coil off, buy some coils spring clamps at the local parts store and clamp 2 coils together on the rear springs. Give you 1 1/2" to 2" all the way around.

Lowering springs; You can buy replacement coil springs that will lower the front around 1" and for the rear for 1 1/2".

Dropped spindles; drop spindles will give you a 2" drop in the front and maintain the correct suspension geometry. (S-10 drop spindles from the early 80's through the mid 90's fit our cars ;) ). Then go with the dropped springs for the back.

I've done all of the above on different cars, but I like the dropped spindle method the best.

p.s.

Driving a lowered car is a little different, you need to be on the lookout for stuff in the road, tall man hole covers, speed bumps, etc. and expect the occasional scrubbing. I run a custom made intercooler scoop that extends out to the front bumper and sits 4" off the ground. I made it flexible, so when it does hit, it can move. Scooped a turtle up in one time! Once you get used to it, it's not that bad. Been driving mine that way of over 6 years and my wife has even learned to drive it without incident.
 
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