Next engine

[USMC_Turbo6]

Thinking about my next engine build and wanted to know what would be the best engine to build a 4.1 or stage 1 engine. What kind on power can I get out of them and which one would be the best for me to drive on the street.

 

[USMC_Turbo6]

Did I post in the wrong place?

 

[The_Six]

I’m no expert but I did do some research in to the stage I and 4.1 build which is better well both have down falls .
4.1 is cheaper but piston choice is limited there is only one place that sells forged pistons for it so most use Hyper pistons. You will still need to get a turbo crank if it doesn’t have one or a forged one and billet caps.
The stage one is almost the exact same as the 109 it does have some more meat in areas on the block but it still has the same down falls as the regular 109. In other words you still need forged internals or at least caps and girdle.
There is a good description of both over on the other site. Basically what I came up with was its going to cost the same to build ether engine for serous power as it would to build the 109 plus the cost of whatever block you use so you may as well just use the 109 you have in the car that is unless you just got a smoking good deal on the 4.1 or stage I block.

 

[dr_frankenstein]

remember a 4.1 is only good to around 530- 600 hp...

the decks tend to crack around the bolt holes.

A.j.

 

[USMC_Turbo6]

I'm looking to make about 650-750 hp thats my new goal

 

[charlief1]

Get a TA block then. You can run it as a Stage engine or something like stock. Your choice.

 

[Phoneguy]

Call Bobby @ RPE he is a plethora of information. He will listen to your goals and guide you from there. Great guy to deal with.

Bryan

 

[USMC_Turbo6]

Do you have a number to Bobby

 

[Phoneguy]

Bobby's number is 860-953-1342. He is in Hartford CT.


Bryan

 

[GNBRETT]

Call Bobby @ RPE he is a plethora of information. He will listen to your goals and guide you from there. Great guy to deal with.

Bryan

X2 one of the classiest guys around to. extremely helpful and personable. not to mention brilliant.

 

[USMC_Turbo6]

Thank guys and GBbrett sorry that you had to sell your car. The thing that I seen that you did are just outstanding. The setup you had or close to it would be a dream. I have a lot of family with mustang and other big cubic in motors cars that give me hell all the time about my GN. I wish I had more guys around with GN to back me up and shut them the hell up. Thay gave me hell over the weekend at a street race that was going on. Somehow some way I'm going to shut them all the hell up with that bad AZZ V6!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[DailyDrifter]

El Ess Won

 

[Nick Micale]

I’m no expert but I did do some research in to the stage I and 4.1 build which is better well both have down falls .
4.1 is cheaper but piston choice is limited there is only one place that sells forged pistons for it so most use Hyper pistons. You will still need to get a turbo crank if it doesn’t have one or a forged one and billet caps.
The stage one is almost the exact same as the 109 it does have some more meat in areas on the block but it still has the same down falls as the regular 109. In other words you still need forged internals or at least caps and girdle.
There is a good description of both over on the other site. Basically what I came up with was its going to cost the same to build ether engine for serous power as it would to build the 109 plus the cost of whatever block you use so you may as well just use the 109 you have in the car that is unless you just got a smoking good deal on the 4.1 or stage I block.

Just want to point out a few things about the "best" engine to build.

First, I do not know of any hyper pistons that were made with the correct properties for a turbo Buick application? All the ones I have removed from these engines also had the wrong dish capacity which drastically lessens compression ratio.

As far as a Stage I being little different from a production, it does have almost 50 lbs more cast iron than a production block, and can also be easily fitted for 14 head bolts instead of 8.

As far as "best" block, the TA alum block/engine has developed over 1650 HP on the dyno!

To respond to the original post, "street" does not really define a performance or HP goal, so it is really too vague a question to answer properly without more details, and some idea of budget $$$.

 

[USMC_Turbo6]

Nick over the next two year I'm looking to spend no more than 10,000 for everything. So I need to start working on getting my part list together and finding a great engine builder.

 

[TurboTnZ06]

$10K, its not just the engine to go 750 hp, it's everything else- you'll need fuel upgrades, etc... For 10K you're going to have to buy a lot of used parts to stay under budget.

 

[USMC_Turbo6]

Ok I can uderstand that so the time to start is now I need help with making the list of parts that I would need to get.

 

[Blazer406]

What are your ET goals?

There is a pile of $$ difference between a high 10 sec build.... to a mid 9 sec build.... If you want to go 9's you are pretty much going to have to build a steel crank, rods, a girdled block would be a good idea....etc..... basically a mild TSM motor.... or hot THS motor.... good free flowing heads.... etc. The longblock will be expensive..... 109 based block..... stage...... or T/A. IMHO if 9.99 (nothing more) is your goal..... a steel capped 109 with a good crank, rods, heads, cam, converter, and turbo should do the trick.... Like others said....it is all the "other" parts you need to go along with it....... and to run that time consistantly..... you will be talking race gas most likely. Pump gas and alky can get you there if you are on the edge of destruction..... the preverbial fuse gets much shorter for a little engine making that kind of power.....

 

[USMC_Turbo6]

I'm looking for a mid to low 10's car that will driven on the street. I have an ideal about a lot of the stuff but what block should I start with the 4.1 or the stage block. Something that I can run either c16 or just pump and alky, I know that I will have to have outstanding bottom end meaning a steel crank, rods, a girdled block, but have brand of crank, rods, and piston and so on. I know that I can get a 4.1 girdled from rjc. I have Red twin pump in the tank now, port race champ iron heads and a few other thing. I know that I will need fast to make it work well and other stuff. But just want a helping hand with a list of stuff that I should be looking for from someone that's done what I'm trying to do.

 

[Firechaser]

I'm looking for a mid to low 10's car that will driven on the street

My goal exactly...see my sig, I took my time and bought everything used, even my rotating assembly (although it was "new" just got it second-hand). I think I went a bit overboard w/ the billet capd and girdle but I want no problems so I overbuilt it. PATIENCE is the key to staying within a budget, scour the board and the deals come...I can say I built this car (almost done...) for HALF of what new would of cost, some being even less but hey..averages are averages. And I believe for what u are after...109 Girdled w/ a good (forged) rotating assy will get u done easy....."street" cars dont get the abuse Track cars get.

 

[USMC_Turbo6]

Firechaser, thank! What you have in you sig I have most of that stuff on my car now just not the Girdled, Eagle crank, Eagle Rods, JE Pistons, 83lbs, and FAST bank to bank the other stuff I have.