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No oil pressure after rear main and timing chain, please advise

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neat

Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2005
Messages
273
I am working on an 87 turbo Regal. I just did the rear main seal per the instructions from gnttype.org. After removing the pan, the pick up tube screen had some debris in it, so I removed it and washed in my parts washer. I replaced the gasket, and re-installed.

I did the timing gears and chain at the same time. When cleaning up the cover, I noticed the oil pump drive would not spin smoothly, and at a certain point in the rotation it was so difficult to turn I couldn't do it with my fingers. I removed the cover on the pump and found a piece of gasket material and some other debris in the pump gears. I don't know if the debris was always there, or if it found it's way down there as I was cleaning the cover.

I marked the gears for position, removed them, washed them, and re-installed in the same position. The pump now spun smoothly and easily with my hand.

I finished up everything tonight and hit the key. After about 30 seconds, the lifters started to tick. I shut the car down and removed the oil feed from the turbo. I had someone start the car while I watched the disconnected oil feed line, and after about 10 seconds, there was no oil coming out of the feed line.

The car has no oil pressure gauge, and either the light has failed in the dash, or there is a problem with the sender.

I plan to remove the pump cover in the morning and turn the motor over by hand to see if the pump is spinning. If it is, my next planned move was to remove the oil pan and check the pick up tube for problems.

I consider myself an average mechanic, but I am not tremendously familiar with turbo Buicks. Any advice or recommendations are appreciated, thanks.
 
Autozone has the priming tool for this. Pull the cam sensor and prime it with the tool and a cordless drill. Works like a charm.
 
The cam sensor is flush, but was difficult to install. I ended up tapping it into the place with a closed fist/palm. I changed the O-ring when I installed it, and I attributed the difficult install to the thickness of the new O-ring. However, considering recent events, that seems like a good place to start looking.

Pump was primed by adding oil through the top oil cooler hose, and rotating the engine counter clockwise. I do not own the oil system priming tool for a drill motor.

I will remove the cam sensor and rent the priming tool tomorrow.
 
When you did the rear main did you put the pick up back on...or is it sealed and secure?
 
No, it is not the only way to prime the pump on an '86'87 with the oil cooler.

You can prime through the oil cooler line, BUT fill the oil filter first. :)

Nick is right again!
That is what I did when I replaced the timing chain. I filled the oil filter, removed the lower oil cooler hose and filled with oil until full. Then I used a Chevy primer tool into the cam sensor counterclockwise. I personally did this about three times since I wanted to make sure I had oil flowing. Reconnected the oil cooler hose, and switch to clockwise on the primer tool until I saw some oil pressure showing on the oil pressure gauge.
 
Priming with an electric drill motor and oil pump adapter solved the issue.

Thanks guys!
 
For another opinion, here what I did when I did my pump, chain, rear main, etc; Packed pump with vaseline, filled oil filter, primed pump with SBC prime tool through cam sensor hole, unplugged ECM and cranked until I saw pressure on the gauge (and saw oil coming out of rockers), and that was it. Never messed with the oil cooler lines. That was about 6-7 years and 60k ago. Hope you get it figured out.
 
I have a question.
In those 40 seconds of running with no oil pressure, was there a chance of any damage considering that the motor was still coated with oil?

D
 
I'm going to guess that you're going to get away with it. 40 perceived seconds is probably less in actual clock seconds. With no load on the engine the existing oil film still has a chance to keep you from metal-to-metal contact.

If you wanted to try and find indicators of wear .vs no-wear, I'd pop off the oil filter adapter. Since the pump was ran unprimed you might have swirled the filter adapter a little. If it still looks good, you can probably sleep well at night.

If it's swirled, just hand lap it back flat, then cut the filter open and/or send off an oil sample for testing. (now that I think about it, I'd probably shotgun the oil filter right now just because it's cheap and easy (much like this chick I met Easter weekend judging the "The Most Spankable Ass" contest at Frolicon. Turns out she was last years winner!
poon.gif
)

After that I'd run it till it makes a funny noise (also like my new friend! LOL)
 
I'm going to guess that you're going to get away with it. 40 perceived seconds is probably less in actual clock seconds. With no load on the engine the existing oil film still has a chance to keep you from metal-to-metal contact.

If you wanted to try and find indicators of wear .vs no-wear, I'd pop off the oil filter adapter. Since the pump was ran unprimed you might have swirled the filter adapter a little. If it still looks good, you can probably sleep well at night.

If it's swirled, just hand lap it back flat, then cut the filter open and/or send off an oil sample for testing. (now that I think about it, I'd probably shotgun the oil filter right now just because it's cheap and easy (much like this chick I met Easter weekend judging the "The Most Spankable Ass" contest at Frolicon. Turns out she was last years winner!
poon.gif
)

After that I'd run it till it makes a funny noise (also like my new friend! LOL)
EARLBROWN,So that's why you were lost for a few days and not on here.I sent you a PM,if you would check it maybe between the ASS SPANKINGS and let me know.Thanks
 
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