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no spark problem

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billygeg

Member
Joined
Oct 5, 2009
Messages
440
Hey guys..Hope everyone had a great Christmas or whatever it is that you celebrate! :D
Heres my Prob...My car was running but now I get no spark. I get no spark from the coil post. Every now and then I will get a split second spark when I am turning the key back to the off position. This has happened with my original 85 ign module and coil pack setup. I was getting ready to do the 87 ign module and coil upgrade anyway so I didnt bother figuring the coil or module went bad. Now that I did the upgrade I get the same thing. The odds that my original coil pack or module went bad and the new ones I have are also bad is very high. So what else can cause this? How can I test the coil pack again? I know theres a ohm test from posts but what is it again? Any way to test the ign module?

Thanks! Bill
 
The first step would to check and clean the connector to the coil module.
The coil module would need to be tested at an auto parts store. The coil pak should ohm out at between 11-13 ohms accross all three towers. Post what you find out. Brad
 
Check to see if you are getting injector pulse. If no, then I would venture to say your crank sensor went out. No crank sensor, no spark or injectors.
 
Check to see if you are getting injector pulse. If no, then I would venture to say your crank sensor went out. No crank sensor, no spark or injectors.

X2 on this. Sounds like the crank sensor is out of adjustment, or on the way out.
 
Ok heres the deal.
I checked all connections and even did continuity on each wire to its connection on the ign mod..All the connections are good. Then I tested my old 85 pack and got 11. to 12. k ohms between all 3 sets. I tested the newer 87 pack and got 12. k ohms on the center posts but abslutely nothing on the other 2 sets...I'm thinking that maybe my 85 ign mod is bad and the pack is good and the 87 ign mod is good but the pack is bad. My question is "can I hook up the 85 pack to the 87 ign mod temporarily to see if it starts. I already have the caspers adapter and everything connected. You mentioned bringing it to a auto parts store...Which one do you think will be able to test it? My wife works for advanced but they dont seem to have **** there. Is there any possible way to test it myself? this is the only bad thing about buying used parts...theres always that ? of whether or not they are good and the added confusion!

Thanks! Bill
 
You should be able to see if Advanced Auto has Noid lights. Plug one in and see if it pulses.
 
Sorry but I have no idea what a noid light is...lol... Where do I plug that into? ign mod? cam sensor? crankshaft sensor? injector?

I will see tomorrow when the wife goes to work.
Please let me know amybe I can have them check it out.
Thanks! Bill
 
I know this may sound silly but put the ignition in run and see if you can short the starter, it may start then. It sounds like you have a bad ignition switch to me. If you have to go with a noid light then it goes where the injectors plug into the harness.
 
Why would I short the starter? The starter is doing its job turning the motor. Unless your thinking maybe the ignition is not contacting something when its turned all the way to the start position... Is that what your thinking? Before I try it, Please get back to me and let me know if this is what your thinking.. It is kind of funny because before this happened, I tried to start the car from outside the car threw the drivers window with the door closed. When I turned the key to start it, My hand slipped off the ignition switch and kind of gave it a jult, Like a quick partial crank and it hasnt started since then. Didnt mention it because I figured it was just a coincedence.
 
You have 3 sets of contacts in the ignition switch. ACC, run, and start. The start contacts get the most abuse and it's not uncommon for the contacts to wear and not get good contact. If you put it in the run position and short the starter out to crank the engine you bupass the start contact and the engine may start. This will tell you if it's the contacts that are giving you the problem or if it's an electronics issue.
 
ok gotcha! I will try it tomorrow. If it does start with jumping it out via the starter what is my next move? Is it the ignition switch itself that the key goes into that needs replacing or something else?

Thanks again! Bill
 
The ignition switch is on the lower part of the column. (sp) The ignitions lock cylinder is where the key goes. You have to drop the column down to get to the switch. If it starts then just drop it down and unbolt it. If you have tilt leave the steering wheel at the highest posistion so you can get better access to the switch.
 
One of my Monza's did this to me while sitting at Sonic. I had to put the switch in the "running" position and jump the starter and I drove it home and changed it out. Good catch Charlie :D
 
Gotcha! Kinda hoping thats it otherwise it could be the crank sensor, cam sensor, or the ecm I was told..
Thanks alot! I will let you know how it turns out.

Bill
 
One of my Monza's did this to me while sitting at Sonic. I had to put the switch in the "running" position and jump the starter and I drove it home and changed it out. Good catch Charlie :D

Thanks Eric. I had this same problem recently so it came to mind.:smile:

Gotcha! Kinda hoping thats it otherwise it could be the crank sensor, cam sensor, or the ecm I was told..
Thanks alot! I will let you know how it turns out.

Bill

Well I hope it's the ignition switch myself. they're cheap and fairly easy to change.:biggrin:
 
how to jump the starter

Ok got under the car today. The car is on jacks but its still very tight to work under it. There are only two posts that I can get too. One looks like the post that the Battery positive is going too and the other has a copper looking tube coming out of the solenoid to the starter motor. I believe there is one more behind everything that I cannot get too. I think its probably the wire from the egnition. The only one I was able to get too to jump out was the coppper looking post terminal. I jumped that one out to the positve bat cable and the starter gear turns but does not engage the flywheel. What am I doing wrong? If I have to jump out the terminal in the back (the one I think is from ignition) looks like I will have to take the entire starter down clip a wire on and put it back up. Sure dont want to do that if I dont have too. Any suggestions doing this a different way? Below are pics of what I have under there.
Thanks! Bill
 

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You'll need a remote starter switch to do it. Attach the two leads from the large post (batt cable) and where the small wire is attached to the side. That's the trigger wire for the starter to kick.
 
I dont know sounds like a pain in the a$$ project. I will have to take down the starter down to get to the trigger wire, Then reinstall the starter to check it, take the starter back down to take the wires off at the trigger and reinstall it again.. What if I take the column down and jump out the trigger wire from there? Will That work? Dont mean to be a pain in the a$$ but I'm on my back on the floor with not much room. If I had a lift I wouldnt care..
 
I dont know sounds like a pain in the a$$ project. I will have to take down the starter down to get to the trigger wire, Then reinstall the starter to check it, take the starter back down to take the wires off at the trigger and reinstall it again.. What if I take the column down and jump out the trigger wire from there? Will That work? Dont mean to be a pain in the a$$ but I'm on my back on the floor with not much room. If I had a lift I wouldnt care..

Did you get a chance to follow the "No Spark" diagnostics in the sticky? (Post 28)
Charlie may be right, but I Ass-U-Me you checked for voltage at the ecm and coil with key in "on" position?
You won't even have to do that on your back, just on your stomach. :tongue:
Let us know what you find.
 
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