Not your typical "pick my turbo" thread

[dr_frankenstein]

Adam is correct! there are much cheaper ways then the aeromotive stuff!

 

[eastwoodad]

Yes thanks for posting the cam card, I actually like the tighter LSA on that cam I believe it would be good with boost for being an NA cam.
The fuel system I ran on my blowthru wasn't too expensive and worked great and It supported nearly 400whp and 600wftlbs on N20, 300whp and 450wftlbs just boost.
I used an inline EFI booster pump (MSD 43gph) and a Mallory 4309 rising rate fuel pressure regulator, built a return style fuel system with the stock supply as return then connected it all with push lock hose. Probably a little over $300 if everything was new but you could sub some of those parts for cheaper stuff or get used.

War Wagon...so if I understand correctly you ran an entirely new inlet supply line, but ran the return through the original hard line? Did you put a sump on the tank for the new supply? Also I am assuming the MSD pump ran solo and was not used as a booster to a stock mechanical pump, right? Good call on the Mallory 4309....has got to be the cheapest rising rate regulator I've seen...should work great.

 

[bison]

I disagree on the cam. There's going to be a lot more overlap than needed with that cam and it will have a high narrow power band. The converter will need to to stall to at least 3800@0 to not be a pooch and ideally need even more. I would order up a specific cam. Preferably a fast ramp roller. You can cut out a bunch of overlap and pick up a lot of cylinder pressure from 5000rpm down to 1800. The valve opening/closing events with that cam installed straight up are similar to what would be run in an engine where the car was projected to run 145-150mph in the quarter.

 

[WarWagon]

Man that cam sounds good(mk2r) I want it in my 4.1 in a light chassis. Thanks for more discussion on that Bison.
About the fuel system, I used the stock non efi tank along with the stock fuel pickup. Drilled and tapped the fuel filler neck for a 3/8 hose nipple and ran a 3/8 fuel line from the beginning of the original hard line right above the axle to the new return outlet on the filler neck. I mounted all the fuel pumps on the rear seat pan just below the bottom level of the fuel tank, this makes it easy to get too and self primes. As you said I ran a new 6an line from the pump inlet to the pickuo on the tank and from the pump outlet to the 4309 regulator on the fire wall, and 6an line from the return port on the regulator to the original hard line just ahead of upper control arm. The rest of the ports are used for a fuel pressure gauge and blocked off once you run a line from the regulator to the carb. Yes I got rid of the mechanical fuel pump entirely. Just make sure the vent to the charcoal can is open and thr gas cap breathes good.

 

[eastwoodad]

I disagree on the cam. There's going to be a lot more overlap than needed with that cam and it will have a high narrow power band. The converter will need to to stall to at least 3800@0 to not be a pooch and ideally need even more. I would order up a specific cam. Preferably a fast ramp roller. You can cut out a bunch of overlap and pick up a lot of cylinder pressure from 5000rpm down to 1800. The valve opening/closing events with that cam installed straight up are similar to what would be run in an engine where the car was projected to run 145-150mph in the quarter.

The converter already stalls around 3400...I know the cam isnt ideal, really just trying to work with what I have already and select a turbo that best fits...knowing it wont be ideal.

 

[bison]

The converter already stalls around 3400...I know the cam isnt ideal, really just trying to work with what I have already and select a turbo that best fits...knowing it wont be ideal.

That cam really throws a curveball though. It would need a lot of valve spring and 3400 isnt enough imo. I wouldn't want the engine below 5800 under power and would probably shift around 6600 with something like that if it was a solid roller. I have a stock replacement cam for an 84-85 that's been sitting in my inventory for 15 years. I give it to you. Just pay the postage. I don't have a card for it but throwing the degree wheel on it will give you enough info on it.

 

[eastwoodad]

That cam really throws a curveball though. It would need a lot of valve spring and 3400 isnt enough imo. I wouldn't want the engine below 5800 under power and would probably shift around 6600 with something like that if it was a solid roller. I have a stock replacement cam for an 84-85 that's been sitting in my inventory for 15 years. I give it to you. Just pay the postage. I don't have a card for it but throwing the degree wheel on it will give you enough info on it.

I actually have a stock 84/85 cam from when the motor was yanked...thanks for the offer though! I initially built the engine as N/A, hence the cam choice...just seeing if I could make it work. I do routinely shift at 6200-6300 with no sign of valve float. It has the heavy duty single springs (105 seat pressure I believe). Before I really turn it up, I would like to get some nice lightweight roller rockers and ditch the adjustable pushrods. I havent searched yet, but assume somebody has a good beehive spring available for this application.

 

[bison]

I actually have a stock 84/85 cam from when the motor was yanked...thanks for the offer though! I initially built the engine as N/A, hence the cam choice...just seeing if I could make it work. I do routinely shift at 6200-6300 with no sign of valve float. It has the heavy duty single springs (105 seat pressure I believe). Before I really turn it up, I would like to get some nice lightweight roller rockers and ditch the adjustable pushrods. I havent searched yet, but assume somebody has a good beehive spring available for this application.

105 lbs on the seat is heavy duty? I'd run the 84-85 cam unless you are staying NA. You will make more power NA with that cam than you will with a stock turbo and that cam no BS. There are conical springs that will work.