Oil Pressure
- Thread starter jdpolzin
- Start date
you have an oil pressure problem.
And I haven no idea how you can have 25psi across the board when warm. If the relief valve is stuck open you should have less than 'max' pressure (this time it's 25) at idle
First thing I would look at is the 1" nut on the filter adapter. The spring uncompressed should keep it about 1/8" off the casting (depending on what spring you have in it). If it sticks out more than that, you might not have a fully seated plunger.
And I haven no idea how you can have 25psi across the board when warm. If the relief valve is stuck open you should have less than 'max' pressure (this time it's 25) at idle
First thing I would look at is the 1" nut on the filter adapter. The spring uncompressed should keep it about 1/8" off the casting (depending on what spring you have in it). If it sticks out more than that, you might not have a fully seated plunger.
turbo nasty
Turbo Dojo / MNTR
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2001
It could be a issue like earl said. I just sent back a Silver Seal Filter adapter back that the hole for the plunger in the oil relief passage wasnt machined properly and would not allow it to go in.
Could be a knick or burr causing it to hang. as well. Is it new or used?
Could be a knick or burr causing it to hang. as well. Is it new or used?
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
If it was here, I would first remove the oil cooler adapter and put a different filter directly on the cover adapter, eliminating 2 possibilities at one time. 
NICK MICALE wrote :"If it was here, I would first remove the oil cooler adapter and put a different filter directly on the cover adapter, eliminating 2 possibilities at one time.."
Is this to isolate the possible problem?? Not trying to hijack thread, but what's the general opinion on running the oil cooler??
Thanks, Bob
Is this to isolate the possible problem?? Not trying to hijack thread, but what's the general opinion on running the oil cooler??
Thanks, Bob
If it'll help, I'll mock one up here and test it first.
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
[QUOTE="Bob Davi, post: 3519217, member: 17932".............Is this to isolate the possible problem?? Not trying to hijack thread, but what's the general opinion on running the oil cooler??
Thanks, Bob[/QUOTE]
Interesting question, a little off-topic, but I can shed some insight on the oil cooler in the 1986-7 turbo cars as I had friends and contacts at Buick in engineering, development and testing especially locally at the GM Desert Proving Ground in Mesa, AZ had many GN's undergoing testing and evaluation there.
When the intercooler was made part of the engine package advertised power went to 240/245 HP, this added a lot to the under hood temps. Emissions required much higher engine temps to be within Federal compliance and since the factory had to warranty these cars, the engineers were concerned with oil temp, hence the engine oil cooler was a rather simple addition.
Fast forward about 30 years, and we have much more HP with mods, but we also made many other changes to lower the engine operation temperature to even less than a factory GN in lots of cases.
For many years I have been concerned with engine and trans oil temp so early on gauges were installed to provide data.
With the addition of much better radiators, better airflow to and through the engine compartment, deep oil pans and other helping mods, it is sometimes hard to get oil up to temp when racing in cool weather.
On a few e-85 conversions, I have removed the oil cooler to allow more heat into the oil as the alcohol runs a lot cooler than gas..
Since all cars are different as well the way the car is used and driven, the conditions and circumstances can and will be different, so what will work for one owner to remove the oil cooler is NOT always applicable for everyone?
Thanks, Bob[/QUOTE]
Interesting question, a little off-topic, but I can shed some insight on the oil cooler in the 1986-7 turbo cars as I had friends and contacts at Buick in engineering, development and testing especially locally at the GM Desert Proving Ground in Mesa, AZ had many GN's undergoing testing and evaluation there.
When the intercooler was made part of the engine package advertised power went to 240/245 HP, this added a lot to the under hood temps. Emissions required much higher engine temps to be within Federal compliance and since the factory had to warranty these cars, the engineers were concerned with oil temp, hence the engine oil cooler was a rather simple addition.
Fast forward about 30 years, and we have much more HP with mods, but we also made many other changes to lower the engine operation temperature to even less than a factory GN in lots of cases.
For many years I have been concerned with engine and trans oil temp so early on gauges were installed to provide data.
With the addition of much better radiators, better airflow to and through the engine compartment, deep oil pans and other helping mods, it is sometimes hard to get oil up to temp when racing in cool weather.
On a few e-85 conversions, I have removed the oil cooler to allow more heat into the oil as the alcohol runs a lot cooler than gas..
Since all cars are different as well the way the car is used and driven, the conditions and circumstances can and will be different, so what will work for one owner to remove the oil cooler is NOT always applicable for everyone?
Also if you wipe the turbo or engine with the factory radiator you will be buying a new radiator ($500 for a quality replacement) for it is near impossible to clean out the oil cooler. I deleted my entire oil cooler and lines when I bought my car and use the much cheaper f-body radiator. I will point out though there is a few 3 core aluminum ones out there that can be flushed out and reused.
todd n toohey
New Member
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2013
I am the one that is having the oil pressure issue. Once the engine comes up to operating temp, the oil pressure stays at 25 psi and does not fluctuate at any RPM other than idle. At idle it is around 10 psi which is normal. Per the Buick service manual, oil pressure should be at 37 psi at 2400 RPM.....and then of course react to RPM differences. Mine stays at 25 no matter what RPM except at idle as I said before. Earl, can you contact me please at ttoohey@comcast.net..thank you
Now that makes more sense. At first I though you had 25psi no matter what. Dropping down at idle is what I would expect to happen. Sounds like you have a faulty pressure relief circuit. Maxing out at 25 is a recipe for disaster. That's just not enough pressure to keep an oil wedge between the rod bearings and the crank journal.
Didn't I return a PM to you yesterday or the day before? If not, shoot me a message.
ttypewhite
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 1, 2001
Try another gauge on the motor first. Sounds like its wacked. Mechanical would be a more accurate assessment.
todd n toohey
New Member
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2013
I did the mechanical check and it reads the same as electronic gauge
turbo nasty
Turbo Dojo / MNTR
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2001
Time to pull the oil filter adapter and inspect or replace.
todd n toohey
New Member
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2013
think it could be the bypass valve in the oil filter adapter?
