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Old ATR 214/210 Roller Camshaft

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Spooling

Member
Joined
May 24, 2001
Messages
271
I have an old 214/210 Billet Hydraulic Roller (BHR), which I installed advanced ~ 4* as well - yet it seems rather "soft" on the bottom-end.

I have read that many recommend the 212/212 (BHR) for better street manners.

I still have a TE-61 turbocharger and am interested in hearing opinions, if I would go to this profile camshaft - would I REALLY notice any difference or should I be looking down another Avenue in my attempt to revive my Buick V6's "Street Manners"?

Lastly, what is/are the vendors of choice now - concerning purchasing Buick V6 goodies now - like a camshaft and other goodies - please.

If this is "frowned-upon" on this BB - kindly PM me.

Many Thanks !!!
 
We installed a few of the ATR 214/210 cams and a couple are still in use, and never had a low end or spooling problem? :confused:

The first one was years ago when I built my billet roller cam engine for the GN when Lonnie and I worked out a better retention method, and using a TA-49 turbo with a 3000 stall converter, it was awesome off the line.

Usually the installation was 2 or 4 degrees advanced when we would degree the cam, and "assume" you did degree your cam?

There were a few GN's we built than easily ran into the 9's with this cam.

With a couple "tweaks" to the cam specs, this is still a grind we use.
 
All I'll say is if you want to get the most out of your engine there are cam lobes available that will run less duration at .050 and more at .200 and have less overlap than the commonly used "stuff" around here. The downside is cost. You need to run a billet cam core and associated hardware and a much more aggressive spring. Typically these cams cost about $1500 to install including the springs, spring retention hardware, and the cam thrust hardware if you do it yourself. With these lobes you can typically run 6* less duration at .050 and still make as much or more peak power than a cam with 6* more at .050 and run less lobe separation and still have more cylinder pressure left of peak power. The old atr cams and the common ductile rollers out there today all work about the same with regards to duration at .050 and LS. Youre not going from one to the other and noticing much change. A lot of guys are under/not properly convertered and should be running less overlap. Cams with more overlap within a lobe family will make more peak power but will make the car a lazy turd down low.
 
Youre not going from one to the other and noticing much change. Cams with more overlap within a lobe family will make more peak power but will make the car a lazy turd down low.

Excellent Info - Thanks !!!
 
We installed a few of the ATR 214/210 cams and a couple are still in use, and never had a low end or spooling problem? :confused:

The first one was years ago when I built my billet roller cam engine for the GN when Lonnie and I worked out a better retention method, and using a TA-49 turbo with a 3000 stall converter, it was awesome off the line.

Usually the installation was 2 or 4 degrees advanced when we would degree the cam, and "assume" you did degree your cam?
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When I first installed this camshaft with the old now replaced "rear" holding device - I was VERY happy with the characteristics. When that device caused me a BIG headache - and I went with the new "front" holding device and a new 214/210 camshaft, after I scrubbed everything out - is when I felt the "laziness".

Yes, I did degree the camshaft. I am pretty certain I installed it "slightly" advanced by 2* to 4*.

Manufacturer's Cam card is attached.

Nice to hear you had luck with this grind Nick - Maybe I should have another "go at it" - with this camshaft again!!!

Many Thanks !!!
 

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I am running this cam (see sig. below) and it has great bottom end. It spools the CPT66 instantly., and pulls hard to 6000 rpm. Installed 2% advanced. Haven't been to the track yet.
 
Been using this cam since 1996, pulls hard to 6k and spools the TE63 instantly, the PTC 9in NL converter helps as well, excellent street manners.
Mike
 
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