Pic of engine torque strap installed

[NEWCHAPTER]

Wondering if anyone has a pic of the engine strap installled, got hold of a used one , need the bolt too homedepot should have that though

 

[RUQWKNF]

IMO, if it is the type that replaces the alternator mounting bolt, I would recommend using one of the more bulky cast iron style eyelet bolt instead of standard eye let bolt. The standard bolt that is silver and looks like a piece of all thread on one and an no threads on the eyelet part will eventually break on you if driven daily. I had two of the standard ones break on me until I replaced them with the heavier cast eyelet. Sorry I don't have an installed picture, just trying to help but if it's this type, the bolt pictured is the same type that broke twice on me.

HTH

Patrick

 

[NEWCHAPTER]

Thats what I was thinking, I was going to get a heavy duty bolt as I will be putting some punishment down on it. I am just not sure where to hook the other end to. thanks

 

[Grumpy]

well wait till ya break the alternator and bracket get a poly mount an get it over with

 

[NEWCHAPTER]

Well I would but right now I have my plate full of upgrades and money invested right now.

 

[RUQWKNF]

The hook end attaches to a slot that is already cut into the inside surface of the frame rail. You will see the oval slot that's there, it's perfect for the hook to slip into. Adjust tension on the the strap before letting go of the hook end, or else the hook could fall out of the slot. This strap setup works well when you use the other re-inforcement factory support brackets behind the alternator and AC compressor. I've seen the factory accessory mounting bracket break when people eliminate the factory support brackets and only run the tie down. Grumpy is right, the accessory bracket can break, but I've never seen one break when using all of the factory brackets, only on race cars that eliminated the AC compressor and didn't run those two brackets.

Patrick

 

[NEWCHAPTER]

keeping the AC so it should not be a problem

 

[BOP4ever]

I was given one of these and I dont see how it hooks into the frame without rubbing the steering shaft...kind busy below the alternator with the AC and all...
I picture would sure help a brother out...


Thanks

 

[williamsGN]

Not a great shot, but you can see the angle it mounts at. Attach the bottom clamp through the slots on the Outside of the drivers frame rail near the front. You can access it from the front wheel well. Pull it tight, but don't over torque it.

 

[Evil Doctor Porkchop]

I'm very new to Turbo Buick's, my car has this "KIT" installed by the previous owner. I thought it was something he rigged up from the hardware store. I learn from site every time I visit!

 

[Chuck Leeper]

What Grumpy said...But, then again, if one doesn't make serious HP, the strap may work.

 

[EVIL]

Go with the RJC brace that mounts in the rear of the engine.

D

 

[highboostgn]

I thought those cracked (wherever the bottom connects to). Didnt a vendor make a brace or something for that?

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Go with the RJC brace that mounts in the rear of the engine.

D

I agree. I made a brkt that bolted to the rear of the dr cyl head. I also made 1 to bolt to the rear of the lower/rear a -arm bolt. The cable was then wrapped thru and double clamped. NP at 850FWHP, and a trans brake.

 

[highboostgn]

thats the one!

 

[williamsGN]

If your cracking the bracket, then you have it way too tight or your motor mount is busted.. simple as that, had them on two cars for a total combined mileage of 60K.. no problems.

 

[BOP4ever]

Thanks for the help!
I like the RJC part a lot but may try the strap since I have it.

 

["Reaper"]

This is what I did with mine. All 1/2" stainless