PL help.....file attached

trbojo

'Stang Stinger
Joined
Jun 7, 2003
finally got to make a few runs with the new powerlogger setup.....disappointed with times to say the least, but i think i found out why....AFR was 8.5-9.0 the whole run!!! my question is, if i'm understanding correctly, how is my correction factor in the 150's when the wideband is reading so rich?? Bison, Eric, or anyone experienced please take a look and tell me where to go.......
 

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there has to be something i'm missing....the car went 6 mph faster with the other chip and stock maf at less boost....no powerlogger then...i hate new setups!!
 
Do you have AEM selected in the PL configuration page? On my PL your around 10.8.

What chip?
 
ahhhh...i just installed the program on home computer and hadn't changed it here...didn't think of that...just did and that's where i'm at.....ok....then why is my mph so low then? would a converter that's too tight cause that?
 
Ok, your car is wanting 21 % more fuel at its high point. You need to change #4 Base WOT Fuel - All Gears t0 150 as a start. Your current setting as is the preset 128. Yes its asking for alot more fuel so once we are close you might want to send the chip back to get the base setting closer so you can reset the computer and be closer to start. After looking at your log more i would bump the alky setting from 6 to 7 to help the injector duty cycle as well as the slight knock.

Put the timing back to 128 till we get the tune closer. no need to mess with the timing for now.

Your 2/3 shift is high for a stock cam IMOP the 1/2 looks good

Your WOT TPS is to high. You need to reset it to 4.20-4.60 don't exceed 4.80

Closed TPS is good.

Time to look into a better cooling system

Time to look into some bigger injectors, are you running just 91 and alky? Thats alot of boost for that IMOP, we can lower your duty cycle some by spraying more meth but you really want to look into or consider bigger injectors if you do anymore mods.

What the setting on your alky kit, since your getting some knock i would bump it to 7 to see if it takes care of the knock issue as well as gets the IDC down some

Also from my calculations your converter slip looks good.

hope this helps some
 
Ok, your car is wanting 21 % more fuel at its high point. You need to change #4 Base WOT Fuel - All Gears t0 150 as a start. Your current setting as is the preset 128. Yes its asking for alot more fuel so once we are close you might want to send the chip back to get the base setting closer so you can reset the computer and be closer to start. After looking at your log more i would bump the alky setting from 6 to 7 to help the injector duty cycle as well as the slight knock.

Put the timing back to 128 till we get the tune closer. no need to mess with the timing for now.

Your 2/3 shift is high for a stock cam IMOP the 1/2 looks good

Your WOT TPS is to high. You need to reset it to 4.20-4.60 don't exceed 4.80

Closed TPS is good.

Time to look into a better cooling system

Time to look into some bigger injectors, are you running just 91 and alky? Thats alot of boost for that IMOP, we can lower your duty cycle some by spraying more meth but you really want to look into or consider bigger injectors if you do anymore mods.

What the setting on your alky kit, since your getting some knock i would bump it to 7 to see if it takes care of the knock issue as well as gets the IDC down some

Also from my calculations your converter slip looks good.

hope this helps some
this is a forged shortblock, gn1 full port aluminums, 212/212 flat tappet precision 66 60lb inj ls1+translator.....combo is built to go mid-low 10's....somethings way off.....i was going low 11's on stock long block + bolt ons. this log was with alky on 8 + 92 octane....only saw a few blips of knock, so i'm not concerned with that....i'm going to check fuel pressure and maybe bump it a psi or 2...but again, the build should be trapping around 126-128 and i'm 8-10 mph off.....anybody else with input on this??
 
i was going off the info posted in your sig and in the logs since no other info was given.

Why bump the base fuel pressure up when you can add fuel with the chip?

Also regardless your at the limit of the injectors without spraying more alky.

As for the knock, 1 deg of knock at 27-28psi is not good.

Lets have a look at a time slip.

Once you bump the Overall Fuel up that should help stablize the a/f some as well. thus hold the target better.
 
reason i'm questioning the converter is at 2500 rpm at the line i'm seeing 2psi boost...wouldn't this indicate about a 2600 stall? it's supposed to be 3200....why did you comment about cooling system? temp stayed steady with a slight rise toward the end, then dropped right down....also, on the tps, i thought as long as you were under 5.00, it was good....
 
The spec on the high end of tps is 4.70V plus/minus 0.1V, so 4.80 is max. The reason is the ecm looks for a tps max of 250 counts which is very close to 4.90V. It sets an error code 21 when you hit the max and performance goes into the toilet.
 
The spec on the high end of tps is 4.70V plus/minus 0.1V, so 4.80 is max. The reason is the ecm looks for a tps max of 250 counts which is very close to 4.90V. It sets an error code 21 when you hit the max and performance goes into the toilet.
wouldn't i have seen an ses light or code stored in the log file?
 
this is a forged shortblock, gn1 full port aluminums, 212/212 flat tappet precision 66 60lb inj ls1+translator.....combo is built to go mid-low 10's....somethings way off.....i was going low 11's on stock long block + bolt ons. this log was with alky on 8 + 92 octane....only saw a few blips of knock, so i'm not concerned with that....i'm going to check fuel pressure and maybe bump it a psi or 2...but again, the build should be trapping around 126-128 and i'm 8-10 mph off.....anybody else with input on this??

Loose the Factory ECM, go Aftermarket...Problem sloved with extra's an better tune for your combo
 
Loose the Factory ECM, go Aftermarket...Problem sloved with extra's an better tune for your combo
yeah....when i have an extra 10 grand to blow i might do that....just spent close to that on longblock and trans.....that came from everyone elses reply of "just throw some more money at it"....i have all the high dollar supporting parts and need help getting them to work properly, not more advice to go spend more money!!
 
yeah....when i have an extra 10 grand to blow i might do that....just spent close to that on longblock and trans.....that came from everyone elses reply of "just throw some more money at it"....i have all the high dollar supporting parts and need help getting them to work properly, not more advice to go spend more money!!

You completly missed the point, (an there only $3000),but if rebuilding your new cool parts is more in your favor, so be it...
 
Why did i say something about your coolant system. Log starts at 168, you start building boost at 176 deg, you make your pass and end at 184. Once the log ends its all the way to 199.

My car with the HOT arizona temps i would see around 174 starting and around 173 at the end of the track. my temps would never rise they would either stay the same or cool down some. I cant even remember the last time my car has gone over 180 deg. So thats why i said i would look intot he cooling system.
 
You completly missed the point, (an there only $3000),but if rebuilding your new cool parts is more in your favor, so be it...
Rebuilding a motor because he doesnt have a aftermarket ECM. Really? maybe you know something i don't.
 
reason i'm questioning the converter is at 2500 rpm at the line i'm seeing 2psi boost...wouldn't this indicate about a 2600 stall? it's supposed to be 3200....why did you comment about cooling system? temp stayed steady with a slight rise toward the end, then dropped right down....also, on the tps, i thought as long as you were under 5.00, it was good....
I would suspect something with the converter as well. Whos converter? do you have a log with 0psi stall? How well does it spool and leave the line?
 
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