Please help me with heater core!

[dpok69]

After adjusting my t.v cable and driving around tonight, i pulled into my driveway and smelled anti-freeze. I popped the hood and noticed there was heavy coolant drip down by the passenger header/downpipe area. Im assuming this is from the heater core.

Now the problem. I just started a 2nd day at a new job and cannot afford to take time off. Im trying to postpone the fix, till this saturday or maybe after work if it turns out to be serious. I got my scanmaster hooked to display the temps and a trunk full of antifreeze and water. Right now the car uses RMI.

After about 5 minutes with car shut off, the coolant drip stopped. I checked the SM2 temp and it read 195 (car runs 190 usually) which should be normal since coolant and airflow is not flowing anymore.

Is there a constant supply of coolant running through the heater core? I did not use the temp controls today. If not maybe my heater valve is shot Can i bypass the core temporarily by hooking the water hoses in a "loop" ?

One more question, please. How much can i expect the repair to run for? Maybe parts and labor time if anyone has done this themselves.

Whew...... Sorry i threw so many questions out. Thank you for bearing with me

 

[325DR]

I did mine (about 3 years ago) and I believe it took about 2.5 hours start to finish.

As far as you looping the hoses.... I dont see why not. Thats what I would do if I were you and if I was going to be driving the car while the heater core was bad.

Do NOT use your heat. I replaced my heater control valve because mine was leaking, and now it is ok.

I dont know what it would cost to have a shop fix it, sorry.

Hope this helps you some.

 

[xtremexnyc]

Whats up Dpok69,

If your heater valve works fine it should not allow coolant to go into the heater core if you have it set to cold. Are you sure its not the hose's that are leaking? You can loop the hoses if you need to temproarily, that shouldn't be a problem. Check out the step by step instructions

Hope this helps

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/airconditioning/heatercore.html

 

[buickboy]

I just replaced my heater core the other day. It took about 3 hours total. Very easy, just some time. GM did their homework on this design as opposed to other under dash models. Heater core was $20 at Oreilly's. Good luck
Mitch

 

[dpok69]

Hey hows it going Xtreme? Good hearing from you again

It's definetely not the hoses. I did replace my valve last year. But it is not the stock looking type.. It's a cheap plastic version thats saucer shaped and cannot even except the stock hose lengths. I had to use longer hoses. I went to a parts store, and that what they gave me as a replacement. Time to order a new stock metalic one from one of the tr vendors.

Rather than looping the hose, can i disconnect the vac line to the valve so it does not function (assuming that it is in the closed position when this is done)?

Thank you for all your help fellas. Now i have an idea what to do for tommorow.

 

[TURBOV6]

I don't think its the heater core if it were leaking coolant would be inside of the car. It has to be a high pressure leak (when the coolant temp is high), probally a small tear on the lines going to the heater.

 

[JToups386]

Well, I've done a couple of heater cores on my assorted TR's over the years. I have to say, it was a pleasant job, as compared to the nightmarish task of doing it on Mustangs and other "under the dash" models! As others mentioned, it's really about a 3 hour job, and the only real concerns are to avoid breaking the housings around it, once you think you've got all the fasteners out and begin prying on it. (there's always a hidden fastener or two, so check to verify they're all out, before applying brute force in removal!)

YES, you can bypass the heater core / valve assembly, by going to your local parts store, and looking in the "HELP" section. They should sell the "MotorMite" adapter that allows you to connect the two hoses and bypass the system. It's cheap! It is also a different size on each end of the adapter. Make sure you get the right one, as there are more than one option. This will allow you to run safely until you need heat, or can take the time to fix it, and not have to keep adding water/coolant.

If you need the correct heater core part number, I might can dig out an old receipt for it. I've had them try to sell me the wrong one before, even though the electronic catalog said it was correct. I've always gone to the paper catalogs and matched it from there.

Best wishes on your project...

 

[FlyinGN]

my bad heater core did the same thing a few years ago. It did not drip into the interior thank goodness. I looped the hoses and got home and changed the core. 3 hour job.

 

[dpok69]

Just bought the heater core today for 23$ from pepboys. There computer did not distinguish a heater core for a turbo. So the NA regal heater cores should be the same as the turbos?

I checked under the car and found no addtional coolant or drips. So i drove the car as is. From time to time i smelled steamed coolant from the downpipe. After shutting car off i did not see any leaks either, so this is a case of a fualty valve and bad heater core.

I plan on doing this job myself on saturday. Will be my first time so im thinking 5 hours, especially if the damn screws are in tight spots.

Thanx again for your help.

 

[dpok69]

Sorry to bug you guys again

What type of sealant did you guys use

I was thinking of using black rtv, or maybe silicone/bathroom type.
I don't know if our car temps affects the seal.

Thanx for the gizzilionth time

 

[KENNE-BILL]

I used 3M Heavy Drip-Chek Sealer(5oz. tube around $8.00 from NAPA) when I replaced my heater core earlier this year.

Here is a couple of sites that really helped me out -
http://www.aros.net/~rbuck/core/Welcome.html
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/airconditioning/heatercore.html

 

[JToups386]

A good Permatex Black RTV will work fine. It looks better too.
I put a small bead around all the housings I removed, in order to prevent external seapage from rain, etc. (I've had it happen w/o the sealant on the firewall housing).

 

[dpok69]

Just did the heater core job today, and everything went SWEET! This job is easier than it looks.

I used hi-temp permatex black rtv to reseal. When removing the screws for the heater housing, remember there are two screws also in the cowl area. i was going nuts trying to figure out what was holding the housing down till i pulled out my flashlight.

I painted the windshield trim with pasti-cote trim black. i also painted the blower and the AC relay with enamel black. Everything looks new now.

One thought i had was to buy two airfreshners (maybe tree type) and put it in the condenser and the heater core area so that when the ac or heater gets turned on, you get a nice smell coming from the vents. i would have done it, but i just came back from the store already when the thought hit me.

Thanx for all your help guys.