Plug tuning question

[OneQuikSix]

Great information posted above. One question though...where are you guys able to make a run and shut down the engine almost immediately? Are you checking these plugs after crossing the finish line at an official race track? I would assume that would be ideal so you have time-slip data to compare with plug readings. I just don't see my local dragstrip allowing racers to shutdown before/on the return road.

 

[Eric Stage I]

Something to keep in mind, shutting the engine down directly after full boost leaves the turbo spinning at high speed with no oil pressure.

Eric

 

[OneQuikSix]

Something to keep in mind, shutting the engine down directly after full boost leaves the turbo spinning at high speed with no oil pressure.

Eric

That was actually my first thought.

 

[Alky V6]

Yep. That is a dilemma for you gasoline burners.

 

[OneQuikSix]

Don,

What if us "gasoline burners" simply cleaned the plugs with some non-abrasive cleaner after we were able to safely park the car following a race. Wouldn't we still be able to study the ground strap for discoloration and count the threads missing the flaking metal? BTW...I'll be using an alkycontrol kit to inject methanol.

 

[Alky V6]

Don,

What if us "gasoline burners" simply cleaned the plugs with some non-abrasive cleaner after we were able to safely park the car following a race. Wouldn't we still be able to study the ground strap for discoloration and count the threads missing the flaking metal? BTW...I'll be using an alkycontrol kit to inject methanol.

That is EXACTLY what I would do.

 

[OneQuikSix]

That is EXACTLY what I would do.

Any good cleaners come to mind? Also, what plugs do you like to run with your methanol setup? Is there any one make that makes reading the discoloration easier? Thanks for all the great information.

 

[Alky V6]

There are dedicated spark plug spray can cleaners out there. They do a fair job. Never as good as one would hope. About as affective as a spray can brake cleaner. No residue type spray can cleaners is what you're looking for.

I use Champion plugs. I know they're not the politically correct plug in some crowds, but I switched to them from NGKs and have had fantastic luck with them. I'm still on my first set since changing to them.

I use a special racing model of Champion plug that uses a regular gap, non-projected tip, with an extremely cut back, and fat ground electrode. The fatness of the ground electrode allows it to transfer heat to the spark plug shell and ultimately to the head much better, avoiding a situation where the ground electrode gets too hot and causes preignition of the fuel. I was running into that problem with the NGKs far too often.
The plug is also the coldest model plug for that series. When running methanol alcohol you don't have to worry about fouling plugs like you do with gasoline.

If any of you ever plan on running nitrous, I recommend you go to a regular gap style plug to get the ground strap as short as possible.

Champion and NGK can be read very easily. I think Autolite racing plugs with the light plating can also be read for heat well.

 

[OneQuikSix]

Thanks for the insight. Now I've got to go shopping for new plugs.

 

[OneQuikSix]

I found the following table from Champion Racing Spark Plugs and have a few questions. http://www.federalmogul.com/NR/rdonlyres/95E79D75-4DF4-4C4E-8D6E-0EDA0948D1A7/0/Champion_race_plug.pdf

In the "Cut-back ground, non-projected" column the "C" series plugs are the only ones available (in several different heat ranges). However, the reach of the "C" series plugs of 0.750" is somewhat longer than the 0.460" I'm currently running with stock ported iron heads and stock stroke pistons/rods. Will there be clearance problems? I wonder if I'd be better off with an Autolite Racing (AR23) plug which appears to have a cut-back ground and nickel plating as well. The reach on the AR23 is the same 0.460" as the conventional plugs I'm running now.

 

[Alky V6]

I found the following table from Champion Racing Spark Plugs and have a few questions. http://www.federalmogul.com/NR/rdonlyres/95E79D75-4DF4-4C4E-8D6E-0EDA0948D1A7/0/Champion_race_plug.pdf

In the "Cut-back ground, non-projected" column the "C" series plugs are the only ones available (in several different heat ranges). However, the reach of the "C" series plugs of 0.750" is somewhat longer than the 0.460" I'm currently running with stock ported iron heads and stock stroke pistons/rods. Will there be clearance problems? I wonder if I'd be better off with an Autolite Racing (AR23) plug which appears to have a cut-back ground and nickel plating as well. The reach on the AR23 is the same 0.460" as the conventional plugs I'm running now.

You must use the proper reach that the head was designed for.

 

[ttypewe4jim]

Im running the AR23's now without any issues....

 

[Phase4]

Hi,

Just found this thread and thought you may be interested in this.

Went racing here in the UK with my new car, 87 Regal T. Filled up with various super unleaded's to get me to the track, Santa Pod, 380 miles away from me here in Scotland, and filled up with Shell V-Power (97-98 octane) for the day of racing.

Left track and filled up at a supermarket, Tesco's, with their 99 octane super, and topped off again with the same stuff halfway home.

Last night, pulled the plugs and ....

Did a quick t'internet search and found, on a UK Skoda forum of all places, that Tesco's 99 octane uses MMT (not banned here in the UK) just like the good old days of 104plus, except in huge quantities.

Strange thing is, car runs like a champ and idles the best it has ever done.

Still, fun to be back in a TR.

All the best
Sandy