plx wideband o2 abuse

tford

Registered Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2004
Had a new o2 in the car when I first fired it after a rebuild. Had plug wires wrong when I started it and ran for a few minutes before shutting it off. Also had the cam sensor 180 out. My question is, what are the chances my new wideband is toast now? Thanks, Tim
 
Thanks for your reply. Not much input from anyone on this one for some reason. I dare someone else to respond. You guys are my only hope on figuring this thing out. Going to ditch the wideband tracking chip, replace my narrowband o2, & send my injectors out for flow match/cleaning. After that, I'll see if I can post some numbers from a datalog, and we'll go from there. RUNNING RICH!!!
 
Had a new o2 in the car when I first fired it after a rebuild. Had plug wires wrong when I started it and ran for a few minutes before shutting it off. Also had the cam sensor 180 out. My question is, what are the chances my new wideband is toast now? Thanks, Tim
Earl is right, no way the wide band is toast
 
If you were blowing a bunch of raw fuel out, due to the incorrect spark plug wiring, then yes the wideband sensor can be contaminated.

But, what are your symptoms? You say its running rich. WOT or low throttle? How are you determining its rich? (please don't say smell...lol)
 
I'm not sure if raw fuel was coming out when the wires were wrong. After I got the wires corrected, the exhaust was slightly black at idle and part throttle. Am not going WOT until it's running right. My plx gauge was showing the word "RICH". After changing plugs, it seemed to run a little better, but didn't take long before they fouled out again. Eric, I was going to send my injectors to you to make sure they are flow matched and clean. I'm wondering if the wideband o2 is trashed and the 6.1 chip was fighting to maintain an AFR. This 6.1 chip is more complicated than a "newb" like me needs. I'm a plug and play guy. I am going to order a 5.7 from you very soon. Thanks, Tim
 
6.1 is safer to use. From a racing standpoint you have to be watching the temp/humidity like a hawk with 5.7. I believe you can turn off the WB tracking with 6.1.
 
The wideband is not used in normal driving, only when up in boost, so even if it was bad, it didn't cause your issues. The stock O2 is used for all the low end fueling.

And scoob is right, you can turn off the wideband correction if you want.
 
Ok. I'm changing out the narrowband o2 for a new one first. My engine builder suggested sending my injectors to be flow matched/cleaned to eliminate that as a potential issue. I did find a vacuum line that pulled off with little effort, so that is now securely zip tied. Any chance that was the whole problem? FYI, when the wideband gauge started reading rich, the car would start breaking up really bad. If it doesn't run better after that, I guess I'll replace the MAF sensor. Can you guys provide a sceenshot from the powerlogger screen with the wideband correction turned off please? Thanks. Hopefully I can get this straightened out soon. Tim
 
Could you post your SM numbers with the car warmed up in park? That would give us a start. I'll assume you have your fuel pressure adjusted as per Erics instructions.
 
Yes, correct fuel pressure was verified. I'll get the new narrowband o2 in this week and post some numbers. Thanks, Tim
 
The wideband is not used in normal driving, only when up in boost, s

The stock O2 is used for all the low end fueling.


Interesting. That might help with my tuning problems.... What does the chip need to see to get on the clock with wideband correction? PE mode or a certain LV8 number perhaps?
 
So, are you still running the stock maf per chance?
 
Interesting. That might help with my tuning problems.... What does the chip need to see to get on the clock with wideband correction? PE mode or a certain LV8 number perhaps?

There is mid boost correction which is between 140 and 220 gr/sec airflow, and WOT correction which is above 220 gr/sec (and a small time delay). I normally don't use the mid boost correction.
 
I have the 3" LT1 Maf sensor. The only reason I said I might replace it is when my stock one went bad, the car acted the exact same way. I checked the settings on the translator (not Trans +) to make sure they're correct. Just to double check them though, what should they be at? Thanks guys. I'll get to work on this thing this weekend. Tim
 
I believe the dip switched for Erics chip are on on on off...but double check. The base knob has to be set for the LT1...but I can't remember the number offhand. Check Erics site.
 
Translator instructions are for Erics chip are the dip switches are on on on off. The 3 inch LT1...the base knob is set to 3.
 
I would see if you can borrow one for a test. It's possible it's messed up.
 
Ok. Many thanks guys. I'll see if I can get this thing straight this weekend and post some sm or powerlogger numbers.
 
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