PM Rebuilt, Still pedal will hit the floor

[jshot]

book say it should travel 2,25" with 100# applied ..what i had was with almost no pressure it would move that far and assume thats what you have going on as well...still havent tested the one i have that has been rebuilt ..have to bolt it up to a car to find out if oring kit fixed it

so i took it to a local GN guru. got lots of advise. sounds like i need new headers and gave me some advice on my 2-3 and 3-4 late shift at WOT. anyhoo he says the pedal feels normal but might need some more bleeding. he also noticed a little fluid around the brake pressure switch. it was not dripping but it was wet just under the switch we cleaned it off and i will keep an eye on it, he said even the most minuscule leak could suck air.

I am also getting use to the pedal. but would lie to reduce the 60-0 of 230. i will do some more bleeding.

 

[TurboTGuy]

So, the local GURU couldn't/wouldn't fix the issue for you? Gave you advice but didn't offer to fix your issue? He left you on your own?

Just asking.....

 

[TurboTGuy]

i changed it beacause it was the original one. and also i didnt want that to be the one thing i didn't change and end up being the issue

And you didn't change the $25 brake switch.

 

[TurboTGuy]

Headers are your Brake problem?

OK.

 

[jshot]

So, the local GURU couldn't/wouldn't fix the issue for you? Gave you advice but didn't offer to fix your issue? He left you on your own?

Just asking.....

That sounds harsh. I thought it was very generous of him to spend 2 hours off his free time to give me advice, run some test and go over the rest of the car pointing out some other things like the crack in the header.

This is my first GN and definitely my first Power master. i have owned the car for a whole of 3 weeks. wasn't sure on what to replace and not replace. as the current switch was the Grey one i thought it was good. Where is good place to get switch?

 

[pacecarta]

that switch can develop leaks internally that end up leaking through the connector
the original black switch was recalled and the grey replaced it with an oring internally on the activation pin but they can fail over time
if its leaking on the thread area the oring on the switch threads should be replaced
btw that $25 switch is $110 unless your buying it used from kirbans used parts lots

 

[jshot]

that switch can develop leaks internally that end up leaking through the connector
the original black switch was recalled and the grey replaced it with an oring internally on the activation pin but they can fail over time
if its leaking on the thread area the oring on the switch threads should be replaced
btw that $25 switch is $110 unless your buying it used from kirbans used parts lots

i will check to see if there is oil in the connector. what is the torque when installing the switch? i am thinking i need so save the $110 and put towards a vacuum setup.

 

[pacecarta]

its an oring seal so really doesnt require torque but recall notice stated the spec is 15-20 lb/ft
i use the KMoore J-37117 socket to avoid cracking the switch and use the kent moore J-35126 tester to verify on-off pressures

 

[jshot]

its an oring seal so really doesnt require torque but recall notice stated the spec is 15-20 lb/ft
i use the KMoore J-37117 socket to avoid cracking the switch and use the kent moore J-35126 tester to verify on-off pressures

Judging by where the oil was i would think it would be the o-rings. even tho they are new. i do have more. i will check it out tonight. remove the switch and see if there is any oil coming from inside.

 

[jshot]

its an oring seal so really doesnt require torque but recall notice stated the spec is 15-20 lb/ft
i use the KMoore J-37117 socket to avoid cracking the switch and use the kent moore J-35126 tester to verify on-off pressures

her is a pic of the switch. it has a small hole under the top o-ring. Is this hole suppose to be here? it looks like a round drilled hole.

 

[Pronto]

Don't know about the hole there. When mine leaked it was coming from the crimped area to the plastic top part. The next one that failed didn't leak at all.

 

[jshot]

so i put the switch back together with new o-rings. does not seem to be leaking. Bled the brakes some more. i thing i took 10' off my 60-0. winter is coming. will switch to vacuum in the downtime.

 

[jshot]

I also tested my old accumulator as per the manual pressing the ball on a 5/32 drill bit. and it does fail easily.

 

[jshot]

its an oring seal so really doesnt require torque but recall notice stated the spec is 15-20 lb/ft
i use the KMoore J-37117 socket to avoid cracking the switch and use the kent moore J-35126 tester to verify on-off pressures

I am going to convert to vacuum. what do i do about he PM pressure switch. will the light come on with it removed?

 

[pacecarta]

nope, just tuck wires under wiper motor

 

[GNRick]

I think you made the right choice.