Powered subwoofer question
- Thread starter GNBRETT
- Start date
I was thinking the same thing
I am having Gary K redo my system at the NC meet. I looked at all the powered subs for options. I have a bazooka tube in there now, and it takes up the whole shelf. I want to have the amp and sub both on the shelf.
The BassLink 2 is just a bit too big to fit up there.
The Basslink 1 and a Rockford Fosgate 400 watt amp will fit side by side on the shelf and be a good match. Not looking to entertain the neighborhood, just have a good system for cruising around. Using the stock CSII head unit with the CSII door speaker upgrade.
With a new gray carpet kit, it should be really nice.
BTW, I got the Basslink through Amazon.com for about $225.
I am having Gary K redo my system at the NC meet. I looked at all the powered subs for options. I have a bazooka tube in there now, and it takes up the whole shelf. I want to have the amp and sub both on the shelf.
The BassLink 2 is just a bit too big to fit up there.
The Basslink 1 and a Rockford Fosgate 400 watt amp will fit side by side on the shelf and be a good match. Not looking to entertain the neighborhood, just have a good system for cruising around. Using the stock CSII head unit with the CSII door speaker upgrade.
With a new gray carpet kit, it should be really nice.
BTW, I got the Basslink through Amazon.com for about $225.
blackmonte
New HP Technology !!!
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2007
I figure since you helped me out here you go be perfect for you
GNBRETT
Pelennor Fields
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2004
If that was just slightly smaller it would be perfect. Holy chit thats the biggest sub I have ever seen. Dam!
I'm debating whether or not I even want a sub. I might just opt for some decent seperates up front and some good 6x9 or 4x10 in the rear with an amp.
Anyone put the mid driver in the door and tweeter in the dash? Not sure if that would sound right? Im not looken to win any competitions and I dont want to add too much weight either. Im sure I will change my mind 5 more times over the next couple months.
I'm debating whether or not I even want a sub. I might just opt for some decent seperates up front and some good 6x9 or 4x10 in the rear with an amp.
Anyone put the mid driver in the door and tweeter in the dash? Not sure if that would sound right? Im not looken to win any competitions and I dont want to add too much weight either. Im sure I will change my mind 5 more times over the next couple months.
Brett, the options are endless. I have heard 6x9's with an amp sound pretty good. If anything build a box for a single 10" sub and hide it up on the shelf. As far as components, yes I recently put 4" in the doors and tweeters in the dash (3.5" location) and like the way it sounds in the WE4. Its your ears, your going to have to figure out what you want, LOL. Yes, I know its tough, thats why I have changed stereo's 5 times in 10 yrs in my cars, LOL
GNBRETT
Pelennor Fields
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2004
So do you think I could get reasonable bass out of a good set of seperates and 6x9's? I really don't want anything back there as far as stereo equipment goes the more I think about it so I guess I will have to sacrifice a little.
So what would be your recommendations? I'm kinda partial to an Eclipse head unit 8v but it's been a long time since I have even thought about buying stereo equipment. The last two I had were stolen so I lost my drive for the best sound I guess. I would also like to find a smaller head unit with the ability to have GPS maybe. Not sure yet. Might just buy a small GPS unit since I wouldn't use it much.
Should I opt for a small 3.5 inch speaker in the dash and 5 1/4 coaxil in the door or mid in door and tweeter is dash?
What brands do you prefer? I was really partial to Cliff Design at one time and like the Focal stuff as well. Was thinking zappa amp. What do you think?
I had a powered 10" Bazooka in the far drivers side area of the trunk for a long time. It sounded fantastic. Lots of BASS. People thought I had a big box in the trunk instead of that little ole tube. Dont put it on the backshelf...it needs to go in the back of the trunk facing the taillights.
I removed it because someone on the boards convinced me he could build a box for me for the back shelf that would sound good.
Can you say SGRIM?
I removed it because someone on the boards convinced me he could build a box for me for the back shelf that would sound good.
Can you say SGRIM?
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jasjamz
THS Racer
- Joined
- Sep 30, 2004
Man Brett, by the time you finish this car we will have all moved on to Corvettes.:tongue: I would keep the factory tweeters in the dash, upgrade the 5 1/4 in the doors and put good 6x9s in the back. I would use a respectable 4=channel for the front and a larger one for the rear. That way, you can add a sub like a single 10" or 12" by bridging the remaining two channels on the second four-channel amp. The main reason I do that is the ability to control the gain on the speaker locations. The dash is set lower than the doors to get that perfect blend. Tune in the rear deck to balance it out, then add the lows in to fill the void. Just my way of doing it. If you like the deep low notes you need a sub.
Jason
Jason
GNBrett,
I've been down this road before too. I tried the 5 1/4" components in the door with 1" tweeters in the dash. Never could get it to sound right. The tweeters were always too bright reflecting off the glass, and the crossovers even had adjustments for attenuating the tweeters. I finally removed the tweeters and mounted them down with the 5 1/4 in the door. Much better imaging, it still sounds as if music is coming from up the top of the dash but the highs make it to your ears the same time as the mids. I do have a 10" JL Audio sub on the shelf for some thump but I have been looking into a set of 6x9 subs by CDT to save space. Either way you need an amp so there will always be something in the trunk
Like what was posted before, everyones ears are different and what might sound good to me may sound like crap to you.
Matt
I've been down this road before too. I tried the 5 1/4" components in the door with 1" tweeters in the dash. Never could get it to sound right. The tweeters were always too bright reflecting off the glass, and the crossovers even had adjustments for attenuating the tweeters. I finally removed the tweeters and mounted them down with the 5 1/4 in the door. Much better imaging, it still sounds as if music is coming from up the top of the dash but the highs make it to your ears the same time as the mids. I do have a 10" JL Audio sub on the shelf for some thump but I have been looking into a set of 6x9 subs by CDT to save space. Either way you need an amp so there will always be something in the trunk
Like what was posted before, everyones ears are different and what might sound good to me may sound like crap to you.
Matt
Vertigo107
Member
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2008
Here is my set up. It's total overkill, but it's more of a show car. I have a false floor that will cover everything up, for an almost stock appearance. I have Q-form pods up front with 5 1/4 Polk comps, a custom made plate in the rear deck that houses the same 5 1/4 Polk comps, and a single 10 inch Polk sub in a sealed box. Each small amp powers 1 pair of the Polk comps, and the large, (ok, monster) amp powers the sub. (The RCA cables have been changed to black) I dont drive the car very often, and when I do, I dont really try to entertain the people around me either... It S sounds OK..
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Brett, Im pretty brand specific. I run Rockford Fosgate, Alpine Source Units, and Powerbass. I have always liked the way those brands sound. So I try and stay with them. I also run a lot of vintage stuff, ie amps, subs, and some speakers. As for as 3.5s in the dash, I say no. You cant put any power to them, and they are nothing more than front fill IMO. I would like to say that I have experience with front components, but I dont really. There will be some other guys that can chime in on that for you. I personally like the sound of the tweets in the dash and door speakers in the door because it raises the sound stage. My rear speakers are plenty loud as to not have the tweeters overpower my ears in my WE4. Again, this is what I like. You will have to figure out what you like. In my GN Im going to eventually run the G-body 5.25 speaker door panels for front stage with probably nothing in the dash. But, I dont drive that car everyday.
As far as which brands, really all you can do is go listen to the new equipment in the stores and see what you like. Otherwise, remember what you used to like and try and find that oldschool stuff on ebay and craigs list like I do.
GNBRETT
Pelennor Fields
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2004
Well, that's some good advice guys. A lot to digest. You guys have have nice setups. That Bazzaka tube/Fosgate setup looked clean to.
So the general consensus is to not seperate the seperates too far by putting the tweeters in the dash. I was concerned about that being an issue with the tweeter being too bright up there and sound imaging being wrong.
Do the smaller flat type subwoofers still need the same cubic air space to function properly?
So the general consensus is to not seperate the seperates too far by putting the tweeters in the dash. I was concerned about that being an issue with the tweeter being too bright up there and sound imaging being wrong.
Do the smaller flat type subwoofers still need the same cubic air space to function properly?
GNBRETT
Pelennor Fields
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2004
How do u mean Shane? Can you explain?
i can try and break down shane's response
if his opinion differs then i'm sure he'll chime in. upgrading your stock 6X9 or some lower end ones will make it sound better. brands are endless and depends on how you want it to sound. better more expensive will do better but you may need a small amp to run them as your aftermarket stereo usually have about 50 watts a channel roughly. factory headunits usually run 10-15 watts and if you have a factory amp it may be in the 30's. i would say 20 X's better but you will notice a differance. if you really want to bring out the 6X9's in the back deck install some 6X9 boxes around them. speakers sound better in enclosures and if you have a 10 or better they aren't fighting a sub's resistance if it's pulling while the 6x9's are pushing. this can kill your speakers eventually, once you put an enclosure around the 6x9's you will notice a nice differance. depending on what speakers you go with you may consider a small 2-4 channel amp with a crossover with a high pass to help maintain the freq your sending to your mids and tweets. it'll help you from blowing them. as i said before tweets and mids are more directional as the soundwaves are smaller. that's why when someone passes your house you hear the bass but if you walk outside you may catch some mids and maybe some tweets depending on how far your away from the car and they system. mounting the mids and tweets are important as they need to be set in area's where you will get max sound out of them. that's why most kickpanels are pointed towards the driver and passenger. sure they can bounce off a window but you lose some sound with this. if you have a JL 10 you may consider a larger amp as you didn't mention what it was. this will bring out alittle more bass as your bass has to penetrate your rear seat and you lose some of the sound. hope this helps and good luck, if you change your head unit to a better head unit with navi you won't be dissappointed as most have sufficent power to run most mids and tweets and can be helpful in frequency your sending to your mids and tweets. hope this helps and if you have any other ?'s i'll try and help as most other guys on here will also. but your options are endless.
if his opinion differs then i'm sure he'll chime in. upgrading your stock 6X9 or some lower end ones will make it sound better. brands are endless and depends on how you want it to sound. better more expensive will do better but you may need a small amp to run them as your aftermarket stereo usually have about 50 watts a channel roughly. factory headunits usually run 10-15 watts and if you have a factory amp it may be in the 30's. i would say 20 X's better but you will notice a differance. if you really want to bring out the 6X9's in the back deck install some 6X9 boxes around them. speakers sound better in enclosures and if you have a 10 or better they aren't fighting a sub's resistance if it's pulling while the 6x9's are pushing. this can kill your speakers eventually, once you put an enclosure around the 6x9's you will notice a nice differance. depending on what speakers you go with you may consider a small 2-4 channel amp with a crossover with a high pass to help maintain the freq your sending to your mids and tweets. it'll help you from blowing them. as i said before tweets and mids are more directional as the soundwaves are smaller. that's why when someone passes your house you hear the bass but if you walk outside you may catch some mids and maybe some tweets depending on how far your away from the car and they system. mounting the mids and tweets are important as they need to be set in area's where you will get max sound out of them. that's why most kickpanels are pointed towards the driver and passenger. sure they can bounce off a window but you lose some sound with this. if you have a JL 10 you may consider a larger amp as you didn't mention what it was. this will bring out alittle more bass as your bass has to penetrate your rear seat and you lose some of the sound. hope this helps and good luck, if you change your head unit to a better head unit with navi you won't be dissappointed as most have sufficent power to run most mids and tweets and can be helpful in frequency your sending to your mids and tweets. hope this helps and if you have any other ?'s i'll try and help as most other guys on here will also. but your options are endless.
here is my setup, cause i also wanted something light, but well heard. i was even able to just use the trunk shelf for my two amps and 12" kicker sub. the sub is shallow mount 12" kicker tcvt sub with an enclosure. i bought it for about $150 on ebay. it fits perfectly snug and doesnt even touch my 6x9s, i slit a piece of rubber tubing and wedged it to the top of both sides of the sub box, doesnt move at all.
also, if you want even lighter and dont want a sub , just get a good 4 channel amp with some good 6x9s to give you some kind of bass. my polk audio's gave some very nice bass by themselves. my car sounds awsome with 3.5 jl audios, and 5.25 jl audio coaxials and polk audio 6x9s. and i still retain the stock look without any kind of components.
also, if you want even lighter and dont want a sub , just get a good 4 channel amp with some good 6x9s to give you some kind of bass. my polk audio's gave some very nice bass by themselves. my car sounds awsome with 3.5 jl audios, and 5.25 jl audio coaxials and polk audio 6x9s. and i still retain the stock look without any kind of components.
