I just changed the whole Powermaster unit because the brake light was staying on and the brake pedal was rock hard. So I changed it (thanks to my lifetime warranty on the unit) and the same crap. I turn the key on and the motor doesn't even kick on and the brake light stays on. Maybe the previous unit wasn't bad? I checked the 30 amp fuse and it's not blown. I checked for power on both the connectors going to the motor and pressure switch and they have power. What is the next step? I don't understand why the motor won't kick on.
Powermaster not kicking on
- Thread starter d0n_3d
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Might check the AC fuse on the dash fuse panel.
I do believe its tied into it. For thats worth, check all the other fuses, gotta be that.
BW
I do believe its tied into it. For thats worth, check all the other fuses, gotta be that.
BW
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When GNTTYPE.org is up and working, look here for powermaster troubleshooting procedures. 
sell it and go vacuumpuddinpower
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ck the ground wire that is on the firewall. It could have worked loose. Long black wire that is with the braided one on the firewall.
HTH
Puddin
HTH
Puddin
Checked all fuses. They are good. Checked the ground wire on the firewall. Looks good. Wow what is going on here...
On the very top of the dash right underneath where the headlight switch is (above the fuse box)...theres a beige junction box looking thing with a bunch of orange wires going to it...what exactly is that? and I have some single wire connector that is not connected to anything right next to it. It has a solid pink wire and a small black connector?
On the very top of the dash right underneath where the headlight switch is (above the fuse box)...theres a beige junction box looking thing with a bunch of orange wires going to it...what exactly is that? and I have some single wire connector that is not connected to anything right next to it. It has a solid pink wire and a small black connector?
Its on the frame , kinda behind the drivers front wheel. Follow the brake lines. They came with a cast iron unit that had a recall. I took mine to the dealer last year when I swapped to vac and was going thru the brake system. They got the part there in a few days and fixed it under the recall. Pretty cool. I think the phrase they used was "lifetime recall". I went ahead and installed a line lock while I was in there also. Makes burnouts alot easier.
chris
chris
well apparently I just checked my pump motor with my multimeter and its not showing resistance just like the instructions say to check for...the pressure switch DOES show resistance...the motor is dead somehow...weird I guess Ill have to take this new unit back and get another one 
I would think that the pressure switch should only show some resistance if the circuit is closed...the switch is turned on and the circuit is grounding. Now I dont know if the pressure switch design is normally open or normally closed. But, Im thinking it shouldnt show resistance. It should either be open or closed, and the closed circuit shouldnt show any resistance. It either conducts with no resistance or its open and wont show anything. What would there be in the switch that would create resistance? Its just a contact thats either open or closed. Hell I dont know. As a test to rule out the pressure switch, I would make sure all the contacts are good in the motor connector and pressure switch connector...check for pinched wires as well, make sure the brake switches under the dash are adjusted right, and then jump the pins in the pressure switch connector with a paper clip, turn the ignition on and tap the brake pedal. If you hear the motor click on and start spinning, immediately pull the jumper out of the connector, or you'll overpressurize the system and damage something. You should have another person to hit the pedal so you can get to the jumper fast enough. Its obviously not the accumulator.
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He said that he checked the MOTOR for resistance, and if there is no resistance, then there is a internal open circuit making it not work :redface:
What are the odds of having 2 bad power masters motors thou?
BW
What are the odds of having 2 bad power masters motors thou?
BW
forcefed3.8's
Buckeye Bullet
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I am fighting with my powermaster too. The motor I got from Hank doesn't work, it never even kicked on, just smelled like burned up electronics. Right now I have a motor out of another car. The pedal is soft, and the light comes on. I just changed the cast valve to the brass one, and no difference. I feel your pain.
power master
The combo valve has nothing to do with it.Pull of harness at motor,the red wire should have power always,black is ground always,small brown should have power when key on,and small white gets ground when pressure switch senses less than 400 psi.other small tan/white wire on pressure switch is for dash light and gets grounded when less than 500 psi.small black wire on switch goes to ground.If all this is o.k. then it is either the built in relay on the pump motor or the motor itself.hope this helps.reply wiyh any questions,I,m a self proclaimed wiring expert.
The combo valve has nothing to do with it.Pull of harness at motor,the red wire should have power always,black is ground always,small brown should have power when key on,and small white gets ground when pressure switch senses less than 400 psi.other small tan/white wire on pressure switch is for dash light and gets grounded when less than 500 psi.small black wire on switch goes to ground.If all this is o.k. then it is either the built in relay on the pump motor or the motor itself.hope this helps.reply wiyh any questions,I,m a self proclaimed wiring expert.
A little off topic.
. I need to get my $78.00 back. Now i have another with the old iron one and i want to replace it.
By chance does anyone have the campaign number for this recall? I bought one to replace myself and then i called the recall number to get reimbursement for the brass valve and couldnt get any one that knew anything on the damn phone8AV8 said:
. I need to get my $78.00 back. Now i have another with the old iron one and i want to replace it.I'll let everyone know what happens tomorrow when I pick up the new motor and do another resistance check on the motor BEFORE I install it!!!
A long time ago back when my dad owned this car bone stock between 1998 and 2001, he changed out the whole PM unit 6 times before he found one that worked...the one I just got rid of lasted 5 years (a record in my books).
A long time ago back when my dad owned this car bone stock between 1998 and 2001, he changed out the whole PM unit 6 times before he found one that worked...the one I just got rid of lasted 5 years (a record in my books).
well I got the 2nd new unit and tested resistance between terminals B & D just like the diagnostic page describes and nothing...is this even the correct procedure? surely I can't have 3 bad units in a row with 2 of them being brand new??? I asked the guy where I got it from and he says the manufacturer tests each unit before they go out...so why wouldn't these new motors show resistance like the pressure switch does??? I don't know what else to do now besides converting this damn system over to vacuum which I really don't want to do
ok sorry for all the posts.........
I just checked the connector that goes to the motor...terminal B shows 12V, terminal C which is red shows 0.02V..........is that it? I think that is the power wire BUT it says to check the fuse and see if its blown and its not blown? Severed wire somewhere? Fusebox not good? I'm going crazy!
I just checked the connector that goes to the motor...terminal B shows 12V, terminal C which is red shows 0.02V..........is that it? I think that is the power wire BUT it says to check the fuse and see if its blown and its not blown? Severed wire somewhere? Fusebox not good? I'm going crazy!
Check between the fuse box and that wire at the connecter for an open circuit. It wont necessarily be blown if the wire got severed.d0n_3d said:ok sorry for all the posts.........
I just checked the connector that goes to the motor...terminal B shows 12V, terminal C which is red shows 0.02V..........is that it? I think that is the power wire BUT it says to check the fuse and see if its blown and its not blown? Severed wire somewhere? Fusebox not good? I'm going crazy!
