precision industries 9.5 lock up multi disc

[TurboDave]

It was just for trouble shooting. A new cooler will be installed.

For a set-up to be that far off made me suspect. A similiar situation popped up before where a converter mysteriously tightened up 400-600 rpm overnight After a long talk the problem was narrowed down to quick couple fittings that were installed on the tranny lines. You know the fittings that look like an air hose fitting?? Some can be restrictive to cooler flow.

That clarifies it. The reason I asked about running without a cooler is that I have been plagued by a nagging little problem that I've learned to work around ever since I've had my vigilante. When cold, trying to shift from park into gear immediately kills the engine. I have to feather the throttle a little to prevent this.
I've always attributed it to the fact I'm running one of the old 7 disc models, and so many discs just don't have the needed clearances with cold fluid, even disengaged.

Any thoughts.

 

[Dusty Bradford]

That clarifies it. The reason I asked about running without a cooler is that I have been plagued by a nagging little problem that I've learned to work around ever since I've had my vigilante. When cold, trying to shift from park into gear immediately kills the engine. I have to feather the throttle a little to prevent this.
I've always attributed it to the fact I'm running one of the old 7 disc models, and so many discs just don't have the needed clearances with cold fluid, even disengaged.

Any thoughts.

I'd say your onto the problem already. The internal clearances aren't enough until it gets some heat into it.

 

[TurboDave]

I'd say your onto the problem already. The internal clearances aren't enough until it gets some heat into it.

I figured as much.

Truth be known, even though I love this converter, since I'm no longer racing, I'd love to get it out of there and something less radical in it's place.

Problem is, if I took it out and tried to sell it, the boost tube would still be in the tranny (not a problem for my tranny), and I have no desire to tear everything down to get it (boost tube) out and undo the machining for it, for who ever would want this converter. :frown:

 

[bison]

Are you comparing a P.I. 5 disk LOCKED UP at wot to a PTC non lock up as far as efficiency? Because when locked up at wot I think its hard to beat the 5 disk.

Im comparing overall performance. Not saying either is better than the other. But the PTC is way more efficient than the PI when driving around unlocked. Also keep in mind that locking the converter does not always give the best performance. Mine for instance slips under 5% in a 600+hp application. I wouldnt expect more than a 1mph gain with a PI over mine. I doubt there would be any performance gain et wise at all. Keep in mind the PTC is efficient all the time. The time in 1st gear is extended which is what we need since the car is not moving fast yet. I shift at over 80mph into 3rd. This would be very hard to duplicate with a LU that is unlocked. The thing is when you have a LU or really good NL unit like mine, you have to throw a lot of power at it or it will pull the engine down too much on shifts causing a loss in et even though the car may trap higher. The converter needs to be built for the application. Its about a lot more than stall speeds.

 

[bison]

That clarifies it. The reason I asked about running without a cooler is that I have been plagued by a nagging little problem that I've learned to work around ever since I've had my vigilante. When cold, trying to shift from park into gear immediately kills the engine. I have to feather the throttle a little to prevent this.
I've always attributed it to the fact I'm running one of the old 7 disc models, and so many discs just don't have the needed clearances with cold fluid, even disengaged.

Any thoughts.

You could raise the idle speed and upgrade the IAC t the later GM style. I dont know whats involved in the IAC swap but it can be done. They are much more active than the old ones we have.

 

[GNVYUS 1]

After reading this I just noticed my 5 disc isn't clanking anymore, like nothing??

It's got about 3k on it now and now that I think of it, it hasn't made the noise since Jimmy's Trans beefed up the trans. New mods are twin feed, billet forward and input, trans brake with everything else we all have.

Maybe the billet input did something or the dual feed?

 

[WSLN 6]

I love my PTC 9.5 I got from Dusty. Never had a higher stall converter that I could just idle my car up the driveway into the garage. Good stuff! It was stalling at 3000 rpm with the temporary stock turbo, and revs at 2000 rpm at 65mph on the highway.
Do I need a restall? Only the new turbo will tell me that.....

 

[turbojimmy]

+1 thats why i went to the billet 9X11. i couldnt stand driving a car around that should like crap at a red light

You can't hear my Viglilante rattle over my lifters rapping and my exhaust leaks.

Jim

 

[turbojimmy]

That clarifies it. The reason I asked about running without a cooler is that I have been plagued by a nagging little problem that I've learned to work around ever since I've had my vigilante. When cold, trying to shift from park into gear immediately kills the engine. I have to feather the throttle a little to prevent this.
I've always attributed it to the fact I'm running one of the old 7 disc models, and so many discs just don't have the needed clearances with cold fluid, even disengaged.

Any thoughts.

My new-ish 5-disk did the same thing. I won't tell you how I fixed it because it will start an off-topic pi$$ing contest.

Jim

 

[TurboDave]

My new-ish 5-disk did the same thing. I won't tell you how I fixed it because it will start an off-topic pi$$ing contest.

Jim

You could be a "nice guy" and PM me your resolution. :wink:

 

[turbomatt]

Another thing to consider is the weight of the converter. I can tell you that the 5 clutch PI is very heavy. Heavier than the stock converter. A non lock is much lighter than a single lock up let alone a muti disk. This weight has a huge effect on the ability of the engine to rev. I weighed a non lock, a PI 5 clutch lock up, and the stock d-5 lock up years ago. I will look for the numbers and post them up.

 

[wickedtt]

You could be a "nice guy" and PM me your resolution. :wink:

+1

 

[turbojimmy]

You could be a "nice guy" and PM me your resolution. :wink:

It's not a secret, but the mere mention of the F-word gets everyone's panties in a wad. When I moved to < the F-word > instead of the stock ECM, the stalling went away. I don't know if it's because of a faster processor (I know we're talking about milliseconds here) or better IAC management but the car no longer stalls. Of course that's not why I bought < the F-word > but it was a nice surprise. With < the F-word > you can adjust the start IAC % and idle speed as they relate to coolant temp. Knowing that the stalling is a cold-start problem, I adjusted the IAC % a little higher and the idle speed a little higher when cold.

Before < the F-word > I would do what you do - give it a little gas before I dropped it into gear. It really only needs like another 50 RPM at idle to keep from stalling. You can have that burned into a chip easily.

Jim

 

[TurboDave]

It's not a secret, but the mere mention of the F-word gets everyone's panties in a wad. When I moved to < the F-word > instead of the stock ECM, the stalling went away. I don't know if it's because of a faster processor (I know we're talking about milliseconds here) or better IAC management but the car no longer stalls. Of course that's not why I bought < the F-word > but it was a nice surprise. With < the F-word > you can adjust the start IAC % and idle speed as they relate to coolant temp. Knowing that the stalling is a cold-start problem, I adjusted the IAC % a little higher and the idle speed a little higher when cold.

Before < the F-word > I would do what you do - give it a little gas before I dropped it into gear. It really only needs like another 50 RPM at idle to keep from stalling. You can have that burned into a chip easily.

Jim

Thanks for the info, but I'm not ready for that big of a leap (f-word). And since I no longer race.....

Anyway, mine probably would need more than 50rpm. Probably something closer to a 1,000rpm idle, and a FAST reacting IAC.

It was REALLY anoying when I had my car up in MI several winters ago. After it had sat in a freezing storage locker for any length of time, even a 2,000+ rpm gear drop would kill it until some heat got built into it.

 

[turbojimmy]

Thanks for the info, but I'm not ready for that big of a leap (f-word). And since I no longer race.....

Anyway, mine probably would need more than 50rpm. Probably something closer to a 1,000rpm idle, and a FAST reacting IAC.

It was REALLY anoying when I had my car up in MI several winters ago. After it had sat in a freezing storage locker for any length of time, even a 2,000+ rpm gear drop would kill it until some heat got built into it.

Wow. That does suck. Mine was never really that bad. My idle with the chips was 850 and it would stall. I have it idling at 910 and it doesn't stall anymore. I forget what the cold idle was/is.

Jim

 

[GNVYUS 1]

The 5 Disc PI converter weighs 34lbs totally dry, the stock converter is either 41lbs or 48lbs I screwed up my #'s somehow.