Proven combo to make a 'Brick' handle???

[Jimn8or]

Can somebody PLEEEZE list the parts they used to make their Regal handle. Exactly, what springs, bars, shocks etc... Did you lower the car? How, springs only or drop-spindles? I don't want my car to sit on the ground, yet a little lower would be nice. I have the basics, 3 front triangle pieces and rear seat braces, now looking for the rest that will keep my fillings in my head, yet allow me to comfortably disregard the recommended entry speed signs coming into highway corners.
Thanks for all replies,
Jim

 

[Turbo6inKY]

This is what I have:

Energy Suspension 3.18110 Poly Master Kit
Bilstein B36-0949 Front shocks
Bilstein B46-0929 Rear shocks
Wilwood 140-2508-B front brake kit
Stock Swaybars
GNX Bushing (From Kirban)
Rear Seat crossbrace (Kirban)
Front frame tie and diagonal braces (Kirban)

It handles wonderfully now (Autocross tested), but not competative with, say, an Integra GSR (not that this sled ever will be, too heavy). I can say that this combination is quite competent up to the limit of the tires I had (Yokohama A540s).

I'm about to order:
Moog 5660 Front spring (639 lb/in)
Moog 5662 Rear spring (141 lb/in)
Ub Machine 14-0809-5R upper A-Arms
Bridgestone Potenza RE750 245/50R16 tires

This should pretty much turn the car into a monster. I'm not expecting much of a drop with the moog springs. I don't really want one. If I have trouble with the rear suspension binding up and oversteering on me with the poly bushings, I'll go with somebody's rear control arms with spherical bearings on the chassis side.

 

[Jimn8or]

Thanks very much for the taking the required time to be part number specific! This is exactly the kind of response I was hoping for. Is the Wilwood kit a larger rotor/caliper kit and does it use the oem spindles or did you go B-Body?
Thanks again,
Jim

 

[Turbo6inKY]

Originally posted by Jimn8or
Is the Wilwood kit a larger rotor/caliper kit and does it use the oem spindles or did you go B-Body?

Stock diameter rotor, but MUCH thicker, better iron. I can get my pinky finger into the vents. The four piston calipers don't hurt either.
Stock spindle, but requires machining. You have to cut the mounting ears for the stock calipers off and enlarge some mounting holes for the Wilwood caliper bracket. They provide a full-size drawing with the kit so you can take the spindles and the diagram to the machine shop and the shop will know exactly what to do.

Other than the spindle machining, its an easy install. You will need some adapters to get the stock brake lines to screw into the Dynalite calipers, but the adapter should be available at any brake shopt (can't remember the particulars on the adapter. I had custom lines made).

I have no scientific data on the improvement, but they did shave a considerable amount of weight and I can easily hit the first return road at the drag strip now. On the stock brakes I was lucky to make the last one.

 

[Turbo6inKY]

Originally posted by Turbo6inKY
T
Moog 5662 Rear spring (141 lb/in)

Correction: Dunno what the heck I was smoking, but that's the wrong part number for the rear springs.

Moog CC651 Cargo Coils should probably go in the back. The 5662 is a 700lb/in spring for an F-Body.

 

[TRFanatic]

cost

Do you mind if I ask a ballpark price of the Willwood front brakes??

Thanks alot,

Ravi

 

[bruce]

Might read thur this.

http://www.t6p.com/forums/showthread.php?t=791

 

[Turbo6inKY]

Re: cost

Originally posted by TRFanatic
Do you mind if I ask a ballpark price of the Willwood front brakes??

Thanks alot,

Ravi

They were $624 from Summit.
Everything is included in the kit, you just have to get the spindles machined a bit.

Might read thur this.

http://www.t6p.com/forums/showthread.php?t=791

That's pretty much the standard list of stuff people recommend you do. Its adequate for a street driven car, but if you're racing (SCCA Solo, open track events, whatever), there are some items in there that could actually kill you.

The biggest issue is the rear suspension. Once upon a time, I believed the "poly everywhere" bit. I've even made some pro-poly posts on here.

I take all that back. Installing all polyuerthane bushings in the rear is suicidal.

Read this: http://corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9237

Couple posts down. For background, Corner Carvers is a low-BS forum heavily populated by NASA American Iron racers. Mostly a Mustang board, but the Fox body has a very similar rear suspension to ours, and a lot of their experience carries over.

That bind study shows all-poly bushing cause incredible amounts of bind. I had all poly in the back, and learned the hard way at an autocross that it wasn't a good idea. Snap oversteer exiting a very tame slalom followed by a 30 yard powerslide (stopping 6" short of a curb, no joke) almost ruined my underwear.

I just came in from the garage. I replaced the poly at the chassis side with OEM rubber.

Another issue is the ATR rear bar. Its nice if your rear springs are shot or you're drag racing, but it is my opinion (no testing data, just an opinion) that the stock bars are more than adequate. I fear that huge ATR bar will limit the ability of the rear end to articulate. Fix the roll with springs.

Another Correction, while I'm typing, I've bailed on the UB Machine arms. I got a fully adjustable set from a guy on the MonteCarloss.com board. They should introduce a negative camber curve, and they eliminate the need for shims to do the alignment. I'll have complete control over static camber and caster.

Here: http://www.montecarloss.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=18;t=001272#000000
HUGE thread that started with a bumpsteer question and turned into the most comprehensive discussion and analysis of the G body front suspension I have been able to find.

 

[bruce]

Re: Re: cost

Originally posted by Turbo6inKY

Interesting points in some on the postings.
And at least one guy read some of Smith's work.
But, reading Fred Puhn's Book How to make your car handle while dated is informative.
Not to mention Dave Morgans Door Slammers
And Herb Adams Chassis Engineering.

IMO, the guy with the Porblems isn't having bumpsteer problems so much as not enough chamber. With 17s that will make a car *hunt*.

After reading the bumpsteer specs. of the B's, Im not worried. The only time I've been a little spooked was in a sudden elevation change, that I misread, and was going too fast in.

Soft springs, poor shocks, short side wall tires, incorrect alignment all can make a car ill handling.