PTFE Rear Main Seals ?
- Thread starter KWIKR 1
- Start date
Welcome!
By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.
FelPro #2904 or BS400961 ?
It'll basically works in place of the stock replacement neoprene seal.
Remember, that this is basically a "custom" piece. You'll be reducing the width and the depth of the BBC seal, so, it basically will be fit to your block/crank.
Here is what it looks like from the side. you'll see that on the back side, or side that sits into the block and the main cap, that depth is ground away too. I did this by grinding the depth with the bench grinder, anchoring my hands, and using a stationary drum sander type motion. I ground it to a slightly deeper profile than the stock seal... test fitted and went form there.
Plan on getting 2 seals when you do this - just in case you have a mishap.
The diagram - I just drew up and I'm 99% sure this is what the seal profile looks like, but it's been a few years since I did this.
Remember also, that this is meant for those with non knurled cranks. Cranks with knurling need not apply.
Remember, that this is basically a "custom" piece. You'll be reducing the width and the depth of the BBC seal, so, it basically will be fit to your block/crank.
Here is what it looks like from the side. you'll see that on the back side, or side that sits into the block and the main cap, that depth is ground away too. I did this by grinding the depth with the bench grinder, anchoring my hands, and using a stationary drum sander type motion. I ground it to a slightly deeper profile than the stock seal... test fitted and went form there.
Plan on getting 2 seals when you do this - just in case you have a mishap.
The diagram - I just drew up and I'm 99% sure this is what the seal profile looks like, but it's been a few years since I did this.
Remember also, that this is meant for those with non knurled cranks. Cranks with knurling need not apply.
Attachments
BRINGING BACK THIS POST .....I would like to know if anybody has tried useing the modified BBC rear main seal on a BA STROKER CRANK ,was it successful in stopping that dreaded rear main leak.....I tried a different seal and it is leaking....I believe the only way I will resolve this leak problem ,is to knurl the crank or install a seal with a knurled pattern molded on it .
there has to be others with the same problem as me.
there has to be others with the same problem as me.J-B Racing
Forced Induction
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2003
- Messages
- 2,466
I will look this up on Monday. I will find a Fel-pro or a Victor #
I got some emails about whether this fix would work or not.. so I decided to post.
My fix was for a Buick Motorsports crank but not a BA performance crank. It's the same problem though.. the lack of knurling on the end of the crank. Before this fix, my car was leaking a ton. Enough that I never wanted to drive it.
After the fix, technically.. it might have leaked/seeped, but I would say that it did not leak. I had a drip every once in awhile - and usually under full boost, but it could have been from the it, the oil pan, or the side of the main cap. There was not enough leak to see it on the dipstick.
Lee Thompson researched this issue a lot - He deserves credit for finding out what the true problem with this is - and went through knurling his crank to get it right.
Mine was just a simple solution - I didn't know that it was going to work until I started to cut apart the BBC seal and saw how simple it was to keep it in the Buick dimensions.
A late stage II block - which uses the same cranks - takes a BBC seal. It's that seal on the same cranks! I believe the TA perf block uses the BBC seal too. Buick used this seal because of it's "sealing power" and no worries about the knurling on the race cranks and BMS cranks that they made.
My fix was for a Buick Motorsports crank but not a BA performance crank. It's the same problem though.. the lack of knurling on the end of the crank. Before this fix, my car was leaking a ton. Enough that I never wanted to drive it.
After the fix, technically.. it might have leaked/seeped, but I would say that it did not leak. I had a drip every once in awhile - and usually under full boost, but it could have been from the it, the oil pan, or the side of the main cap. There was not enough leak to see it on the dipstick.
Lee Thompson researched this issue a lot - He deserves credit for finding out what the true problem with this is - and went through knurling his crank to get it right.
Mine was just a simple solution - I didn't know that it was going to work until I started to cut apart the BBC seal and saw how simple it was to keep it in the Buick dimensions.
A late stage II block - which uses the same cranks - takes a BBC seal. It's that seal on the same cranks! I believe the TA perf block uses the BBC seal too. Buick used this seal because of it's "sealing power" and no worries about the knurling on the race cranks and BMS cranks that they made.
I've spent a hell of alot of time researching different seals for this problem because it was driving me crazy . Looking at different applications that could "drop in" , including contacting manufactors . But to no avail .so far from what I've been able to gather there would be 2 fixes for this one being getting the crank knurled the other getting a whole new seal designed and made .
as mentioned in a earlier post there is a company/person (Jerad Lindsay) that I communicated with that assured me they could make a PTFE seal that would work 100% and were very eager to help address this problem .He even tried to cross reference a seal that he would have in stock that would work , but nothing could be found or matched up according to his data base . Problem being they want $500 (their cost/ because he was interested in coming up with a fix) for the first "tool up" run of 25-30 seals . after that the cost would come down per seal .
About Signal Seals & Fasteners: Signal Seals & Fasteners - North Carolina
J-B Racing
Forced Induction
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2003
- Messages
- 2,466
OK. I will let things go.
Phoneguy
Cometic HG stress tester
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2002
- Messages
- 6,882
Subscribed
J-B Racing
Forced Induction
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2003
- Messages
- 2,466
did one
Bob came over ( snowbird ) and we took a BBC Seal and modified it. It was not that big of a deal. Now the test to see if it will work on the Motor!!!
A steady hand and a Dremel will get the job done.
Bob came over ( snowbird ) and we took a BBC Seal and modified it. It was not that big of a deal. Now the test to see if it will work on the Motor!!!
A steady hand and a Dremel will get the job done.
I hope it works/helps .
"Anyone know what rear seals Dan Strezo uses on builds since he sells and installs the BA crank in them .Maybe someone should live him a call and post the results on here?"
as far as I know "snowbird" has been in contact with DLS about the problem . Maybe he can fill you in on Dan's response .
I have spoken to dan about my leaking rear main seal twice on the phone,he has told me that not all the rear main seals on the BA CRANKS are leaking and he really DOES NOT KNOW why some of the rear mains are leaking,he has gone out of his way to send me a complete different seal and gasket package to try out at no charge ,,it didnt work ,,,,the seal that is being used is the stock seal that can be bought at any auto pats and it seems that the only member that has fixed the problem is LEE THOMSON ,it seems that knurling the crank is the best solution....Iwill try the second solution
Similar threads
